Thanks Lincolnz34. But I miss this one......
Thanks for the sharing, PAR drops 20 to 30% after 7 months. When you get a chance, please post the FTS and let us see how are the corals doing now?
Is it about time to change the T5 light bulbs? Par meter readings
- Thread starter kangym
- Start date
solitude127
Proud user of IO Salt!
ATI Fixtures, PAR and active cooling
ATI Fixtures, PAR and active cooling
Just thought I'd share my experience with my 6x24w SP.
I have this fixture over my frag tank that in my garage. The ambient temp in the winter time is probably about 65. I have the lights on in the evening into the night to help keep heat in the tank. For the fixture I have 4 - B+, P+ and AB and have the fans set to 7v. One day I decided to check my PAR 10min after the light turned on and I was very happy with the numbers (about 350 in middle of the tank). A couple of hours later, I checked again and notice that it dropped from 350 down to 200. I checked how many watts the ballast were pulling and at 10min after turning on it was 105w for 4 bulbs. 2 hours later, it was only 88w. So after a few emails with RG and ATI it was determined that my fixture was being cooled TOO MUCH.
You though heat could kill PAR, well so does cold.
Now I have my fans set to 4.5v and PAR is where it should be.
ATI Fixtures, PAR and active cooling
Just thought I'd share my experience with my 6x24w SP.
I have this fixture over my frag tank that in my garage. The ambient temp in the winter time is probably about 65. I have the lights on in the evening into the night to help keep heat in the tank. For the fixture I have 4 - B+, P+ and AB and have the fans set to 7v. One day I decided to check my PAR 10min after the light turned on and I was very happy with the numbers (about 350 in middle of the tank). A couple of hours later, I checked again and notice that it dropped from 350 down to 200. I checked how many watts the ballast were pulling and at 10min after turning on it was 105w for 4 bulbs. 2 hours later, it was only 88w. So after a few emails with RG and ATI it was determined that my fixture was being cooled TOO MUCH.
You though heat could kill PAR, well so does cold.
Now I have my fans set to 4.5v and PAR is where it should be.
Last edited:
Reef_Matrix29
Water Lover
So you can cool bulbs too much too and effect PAR as well?
solitude127
Proud user of IO Salt!
In my case, I think it may have been cooling the ballast too much, therefore affecting the PAR output. If you're not familiar with ATI fixtures, the active cooling cools the ballast first, then the bulbs then out the fixture.
My last email with RG was to ask ATI what the ideal temperature for the air is exiting the fixture. Once they let me know I'll post it on here.
rtparty
Raise The Reef!
Wesley,
Yes, cooling T5's hurts output just as much, if not more than under cooling. That is why you always see Grim, myself and others recommend to never have a fan blowing directly on the center of the bulbs.
Mike,
There is an entire page in this thread where 5 or 6 of us all tested the air exiting our fixtures. Some of us even measured the cold spot on the lamps to see what temp they were running at.
I remember the air exiting the fixture should be right around 105F. At least that is what got my cold spots to 95F (tested with a IR laser thermometer that I borrowed from work).
Fan settings for the majority of people is gonna be right around 9v. I ran mine at 7.5v all winter and then had to crank them up to 9v for the summer when ambient temps were hitting 80-85F. I almost went to 12v but decided it wasn't worth all the extra noise.
Yes, cooling T5's hurts output just as much, if not more than under cooling. That is why you always see Grim, myself and others recommend to never have a fan blowing directly on the center of the bulbs.
Mike,
There is an entire page in this thread where 5 or 6 of us all tested the air exiting our fixtures. Some of us even measured the cold spot on the lamps to see what temp they were running at.
I remember the air exiting the fixture should be right around 105F. At least that is what got my cold spots to 95F (tested with a IR laser thermometer that I borrowed from work).
Fan settings for the majority of people is gonna be right around 9v. I ran mine at 7.5v all winter and then had to crank them up to 9v for the summer when ambient temps were hitting 80-85F. I almost went to 12v but decided it wasn't worth all the extra noise.
solitude127
Proud user of IO Salt!
I will definitely be changing the volts on my fans when the ambient temp in my garage goes up.
solitude127
Proud user of IO Salt!
Any more updates?
shlap
New member
solitude directed me to this thread after seeing that I had posted the PAR readings for my ATI Powermodule 6x80w. I posted results with the light 5" and 7" off the surface.
DML08
Member
Par Readings.
Par Readings.
Hey Ming, Finally got the Par Meter.. Peep the readings.. Not bad for a Retro!..
8x54w Retrofit kit driven to spec.. the 200's are in the corner of the bottom of the tank.... Bulbs are about 1.5months old
Line up is
Front
Blue+
aquablue Special
Kz Fiji purple
Blue+
aquablue Special
Blue+
aquablue Special
Blue+
Par Readings.
Hey Ming, Finally got the Par Meter.. Peep the readings.. Not bad for a Retro!..
8x54w Retrofit kit driven to spec.. the 200's are in the corner of the bottom of the tank.... Bulbs are about 1.5months old
Line up is
Front
Blue+
aquablue Special
Kz Fiji purple
Blue+
aquablue Special
Blue+
aquablue Special
Blue+
I will find time this week to check the par. Being sick and lazy.....
Thank you for sharing. Not quite sure, but 80W T5 seems to produce more PAR than 54W. Only 6x80W T5 lamps get 400 at sandbed, wow.
Thanks for sharing, Dom. You are right, decent par number for retro.Hey Ming, Finally got the Par Meter.. Peep the readings.. Not bad for a Retro!..
8x54w Retrofit kit driven to spec.. the 200's are in the corner of the bottom of the tank.... Bulbs are about 1.5months old
Line up is
Front
Blue+
aquablue Special
Kz Fiji purple
Blue+
aquablue Special
Blue+
aquablue Special
Blue+
Could you show us your light hood and fan setup. Nice rock work:thumbsup:.
dixiedog
New member
Yeah, I had always heard that the longer the T5 bulb was, the more PAR it produced per inch.
And I heard it on the internet, so I know it's true.
solitude127
Proud user of IO Salt!
lol....
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
That would be a logical assumption; here is why:
24inch T5 - 24watts = 1.00 watts per inch
36inch T5 - 39watts = 1.083 watts per inch
48inch T5 - 54watts = 1.125 watts per inch
60inch T5 - 80watts = 1.333 watts per inch
I know for example the 24inch T5 tube isnt actually 24inches, so I assume the same is true for the other lengths ie the glass tube is shorter than the advertised lengths.
syedjilani
Active member
subscribed .....
Reef_Matrix29
Water Lover
My bulbs are about 2 months old now, I will take PAR measurements once I get home and post them as well.
This thread has been nominated for the March 2011 Thread of the Month! You may vote here... Good luck!
Wow...:spin2: Thank you for the nomination. I would like to give the credits to those who sharing their thoughts, and PAR readings in this thread.
DML08
Member
Ming here are some pics, I noticed today and yesterday the bulbs that hooked up to ballast number 4 shut off for a minute then turned back on, do you think this from the ballast getting to hot? they are located on top of the hood.. ..
Bulbs and Reflectors..
Fans are blowing perpendicular to the end caps, I took the Azoo fan apart and reversed the far left one to blow air out, I also used a AC Adapter so I can control the V of the fans..
Ballast .. I'm gonna make a cover with a fan in to help cool the ballast..
Bulbs and Reflectors..
Fans are blowing perpendicular to the end caps, I took the Azoo fan apart and reversed the far left one to blow air out, I also used a AC Adapter so I can control the V of the fans..
Ballast .. I'm gonna make a cover with a fan in to help cool the ballast..
