Is this ICH? Ruby Reef to treat if no QT?

LouB

New member
I just got 2 orange striped cardinals about a week ago from Reef Escape in Fairfax, VA which claims to have a pretty good quarantine policy before they sell and release fish. That said, take a look at the pics and tell me if you think this is is ICH. I do.

Fish 1
tuesday1.jpg

Fish 2
Tuesday 2.jpg

No other fish are presenting these symptoms. Also, I do not have a QT tank.

Will Ruby Reef help cure this? Will it kill my corals as well? I've hear it won't..

Would definitely appreciate some insight...

Thanks in advance!
 
I'd say ich. It's in your DT now, unfortunately. The remedy for ich is complex, you can find detailed instructions by using the R/C "˜search' feature.

Get a QT tank. I don't have a huge home, or dedicated "˜fish room' - my 20g QT is in the laundry room. A minor expenditure of time and money will save you SO much effort in the future.


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It could be, it could also be flukes which would many times fall off in a couple of days.
IMO, watch carefully, if they stop eating, become lathargic, stop swimming as normal, then I would go with Ick. That requires your DT to remain without fish for 72 days, and all fish to be treated in a separate tank with either TTM, hypo, or copper.
 
It sure likes like it to me.

There are exactly ZERO reef safe treatments for Ich. None. You choices are, in my order of preference, Tank Transfer Method (TTM), then Chloroquine Phosphate (CP), then Hyposalinity, and then, way down on the list, Copper.

All require the use of a hospital tank or tanks.

TTM is the least stressful to the fish and is 100% effective if done properly. It works because it disrupts the life cycle of the Ich parasite. It does require at least 2 separate tanks that need to be sterilized between uses. A simple cleaning with bleach and allowing it to dry will do the trick. Depending on fish size and number, it can easily be carried out in 5g buckets with a couple heaters and air stones (dispose of the airstones after use).

CP will work just fine, but requires proper dosing.

Hyposalinity can work, but MUST be carefully monitored for the duration of the treatment. Any slight rise in the salinity will reset the timeclock on the treatment.

Although copper has been around for decades, it it TOXIC to all inhabitants. The trick is to maintain a proper dosage that is just below the lethal range for the fish while being above the lethal range for the parasite. An added problem is that many fish will not tolerate copper well, if at all.

Regardless of your treatment plan, ALL fish in the tank MUST be treated at the same time while the DT remains fallow (fishless) for a minimum of 72 days. Leaving any in the DT will allow the Ich parasite to have an intermediate host even if the fish appears to be asymptomatic (Ich free)

jm.02
 
That will help treat the fish, but in the mean time if it is ick, it's in his main tank too. I would pull all fish, treat them in a QT tank with what ever method you choose.. and let your main tank go fishless for at least two months... do water changes etc as normal. After your fish have been clear for 2 months, then put them back in the main tank.

I use a QT tank, get one fish at a time, put in QT for two months and then move to main tank. Maybe that's extreme, but I have lost a lot of fish to ick prior to using this method.

I also wouldn't wait to treat the fish, ick can kill the fish pretty quickly.
 
Looks like it to me too.

I agree with the others about remedies. Treatment needs to be done in QT, and your options are TTM, hypo, or a couple choices for chemicals.
 
First of all, thank you everyone for responses...

Re: flukes...Uncle...you know I wonder if it is flukes? Yesterday morning, they both had it all over them. I came home and was surprised to see that the spots no longer were there, so I called the aquarium store, and the guy said that maybe they were just air bubbles that fell off...I was happy but then looked closer at the one and figured it was ich...it didn't look as bad as it does today...today it looks bad...and so I'm inclined to think Ich even though they are not lathargic at all and seem to be eating fine...

I don't have a QT. So, Ruby Reef Kick Ich isn't going to help? What do they sell that stuff for?

My wife's going to kill me with another tank...I have

1 coral beauty
2 ocellaris clowns
1 firefish
1 diamond goby
1 royal gramma
and the 2 ichy cardinals

what would be the smallest setup for a QT tank I could do? It seems like you all think I should treat all fish in the QT...
 
Your going to hate this response but here goes.

You are going to have to remove every fish, even the ones that are asymptomatic.

Put them in a QT. You might be able to get away with QTing everyone together in a 40b.

Treat the fish in the QT with the only four known ways.
Copper
Hyposalinity
TTM
chloroquine phosphate

IMO either CP or TTM should be what you do. Copper and hypo are too difficult to get right.

Then your display tank must remain fishless for 72-80 days.

When your fish are crypto free and your tank has been fallow for the allotted time, you can introduce your now healthy crypto free fish into your crypto free display tank.

Lesson learned. QT all of your animals. This headache could have been easily prevented.
 
Does the QT need:

Substrate?
Live Rock?
Is a canister filter ok? What type of filtration is needed in a QT?
Need a protein skimmer?

My current setup is a 54 gal DT, fluval 306, eshops PSK-75, 30 pounds live rock, 25 dead rock, 2 orbit IC bars, live sand bottom
 
My QT consists of the following:
20g tank
heater
power head
several PVC elbows for hiding places
HOB filter with disposable cartridges (Marineland Emperor)
eggcrate with fiberglass window screen ziptied to it to prevent jumpers

What it doesn't have - lights, sand, rocks, skimmer - there is no need for any of these things.

I keep water parameters in check by doing a 5g water change every other day using water from my frag tank.

My TTM equipment is this:
3 x 5g buckets
3 x 50w heaters
3 x air pumps /stones

The buckets and heaters are cleaned between uses with bleach, then rinsed and allowed to air dry.
 
I have viewed the pics again and I still can’t confirm ick.
If your fish have stopped eating, eyes bulged, rapid respiratory, any of these three then yes to ick, perhaps others have better resolution than me.
If you decide treatment is what you need, then Hypo is not hard, and I have tried both hypo and cupramine with 100% success.

Last week we did a clown for a customer which had ick for at least 12 days, used cupramine on him as we feel that once this far advanced we go for meds, in 7 days, ick gone.

Your DT must go fallow for 72 days, that’s the standard.
 
Once ick is confirmed, as you believe, all fish must be moved to QT, and treatment is the choice of the hobbyist.
Good luck, when treating always try to feed, we feed with a syringe and airline hise, one piece at a time, and then suck up what they don’t or can’t eat so we do not foul the water. Since the tank is not cycled, ammonia is now your enemy so partial changes are necessary
Keep us posted
 
Not flukes. Spots look a bit big to be classic ich, but it probably is. Assuming it is ich, either the new fish brought it in with them (regardless of what fish suppliers say, none do an adequate QT) or your tank already had it and the newcomers have not built up an immunity. That your resident fish show no symptoms suggests at least the possibility that these new ones will also develop immunity. I personally do not knee-jerk to treatment for ich; preferring to wait and see if it will pass. My current system has ich; new fish sometimes show spots but they pass and don't return (system has been this way for 5 years). Clearly if your resident fish start to show spots, that is a problem and treatment becomes your only practical course of action.
 
Don't understand why online everyone says ich is a killer. My hippo and powder blue but had ich. 3 years later and 1 year later they are still growing and happy. Why is it such a killer is all these cases and mine it's no big deal. Not here debating you shouldn't qt or anything like that but I simple by Fish that been at my lfs for 2 weeks. He treats with Cooper. Then I put fish in my sump for a week or frag tank and then add to my main tank. Nothing special and in 3 years besides losing a few wrasses. My tank has been dead free. But with 15 wrasses then do fight a lot. After 18 months together my female melanarus finally decided she didn't want to live with the male anymore.


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Don't understand why online everyone says ich is a killer. My hippo and powder blue but had ich. 3 years later and 1 year later they are still growing and happy. Why is it such a killer is all these cases and mine it's no big deal. Not here debating you shouldn't qt or anything like that but I simple by Fish that been at my lfs for 2 weeks. He treats with Cooper. Then I put fish in my sump for a week or frag tank and then add to my main tank. Nothing special and in 3 years besides losing a few wrasses. My tank has been dead free. But with 15 wrasses then do fight a lot. After 18 months together my female melanarus finally decided she didn't want to live with the male anymore.


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I think there are variable issues involved that sometimes fish are able to withstand an infection. For the most part it will kill a fish but there are those rare instances when it does not. I had a clown and wrasse that survived but I have no idea why.
 
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