Isla Escondido - invincible569's Rimless 300g

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GSM, thats where my original in wall was located. I tore the entire wall down so I could get the stand in.. then it was repatched and painted to where you see the new 300g. Dont worry, I wont say a word about the surprise until its in.
 
65k on one side and 20k on the other. Im just playing around until I get my main unit in. Trying to see what works best.

300g73aj4.jpg
 
Thanks Fellas. Now just imagine the tank full of colorful corals with this same money shot. Cant wait!

hawaii, No issues as of yet. The only thing I do on a weekly basis is run a scraper across the water line to clear off any creeping. It's not bad at all. It seems to do the trick.
 
I will be using the same spots on my future tank. i havent found any fixtures I care for except those from a designer light company artemide. they have some other attractive mh track fixtures and nice t5ho pendents....

gallery_1.jpg


thos won bro fixtures look interesting....the brand name scares me though.

eric
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9391076#post9391076 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Flint&Eric
artemide.us

search model otto 80 - 130...they have lots of great lights...but arent cheap.

eric
Click to expand...

I wonder about durability and safety of track lighting above a tank?

To utilize metal halide they specify a special non-screw bulb type. Specifies halogen for screw in bulb. I wonder if you could get away with using the screw in Ice Cap spot mh bulbs.

Could not find any pricing there...ballpark?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9394547#post9394547 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AgentSPS
I wonder about durability and safety of track lighting above a tank?

To utilize metal halide they specify a special non-screw bulb type. Specifies halogen for screw in bulb. I wonder if you could get away with using the screw in Ice Cap spot mh bulbs.

Could not find any pricing there...ballpark?
Click to expand...
you would have to switch ballasts out i dont thing that the halogen bulbs work on the same ballasts as the MH
 
Is there a thread or website I can read up about this Blu Coral Method?

I understand the use of the Pappone Recipe. Extra fine nutrition for your corals and bacteria, so they won't ever go hungry = the food and the bacteria will help for color development.

The part I don't get is the use of high Ca, KH and Ma levels. Is this to speed up growth? or is it having the KH high in order to help the system cope with the extra nutrients from the Pappone?
I also understand that having your SG on 1.026 will get your skimmer working at it's optimum capacity. So this would quickin the nutrient turnover.

I find my skimmer works 10X better at 1.025 - 1.026. But keeping the KH at 11 or more (wait, I can't get to 11 anyway) would be quite difficult with a Ca of 500. The extra Magnesium should stabilise this I guess. I just wanted to get my head around all this.

Are you gonna run this system completely with this method or will you be using some ZEOvit additives for color? Like the AA for example.
 
they have some lights that do accept the screw in MH, but look slightly different. I am leaning towards those and modifying them. They have different models and variations of everything i'd say about ~ $100-$300+ per light housing.

hth,

eric
 
Tritonian, You can read about the Italian methods here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=971190

You may want to skip to the very end to get the recipe's article's. The reason for elevated parameters is to provide the extra elements these corals need for growth. Think of it this way.. you are on Mt Everest.. 02 levels are low, therefore you need to breathe harder. If you had elevated levels, an animal should strive because of higher concentrations. There is a limit though. Some animals may not like this. Since this is aimed at growth, you have to watch your PO4. I will consistently check for P04 to make sure the water is clean from the added pappone. Having low P04 and a great lighting photoperiod adds to the color of SPS. I will use Po4 removers either by zeolites or other media. Zeolites seem to be the safest especially since I was on it for yrs using ZEOvit.
 
Zeo obviously works when done right.
what are your ideas for photoperiod if you can indulge me without giving away too much sensitive information
 
Hey Chuck!!! Glad to see you again. People must be breaking their legs more often these days. ;)

GSM, 5 MH lights total all timed in a different lighting order. This eliminates excessive heat to the tank and excessive simultaneous penetration to the coral. The MH is also timed by the target coral it shines to. The balance will be stabilized once i get some corals in.
 
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