Isla Escondido - invincible569's Rimless 300g
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moonpod
Premium Member
invincible569
New member
Maybe I will give you guys a little tease. Im trying to decide what's the best fixture for my supplemental MH's. I already ran into a problem with the stem being too long (too close to tank) and I am searching for a shorter one which is hard to find. That way I can move it back and put it higher. I will then order the fixture that suits the tank best. I plan to get another style soon. Each fixture has its benefits. The one with the barn doors helps keep the light in the tank vs the other one you see which puts the light on the wall and in the tank. The drawback to the barn door fixture is that light escapes through the slits (yellow light on ceiling). The best part will be my core lights I think which is yet to come. 
Whats nice about this is that this is only 300w total and its very bright. Actually the other nice thing is that I can aim it where I want so if an area of corals need more light, I just aim towards it. Very convenient instead of having to move the coral like we are all used to.
Whats nice about this is that this is only 300w total and its very bright. Actually the other nice thing is that I can aim it where I want so if an area of corals need more light, I just aim towards it. Very convenient instead of having to move the coral like we are all used to.
hawaiianwargod
Active member
That looks totally awesome!!!
ReeferMonkey
Premium Member
You are such a tease.
invincible569
New member
jnb, that picture of the spotlights alone was for you. That should help a lot.
reefermonkey, thanks but Im just doing what I have always wanted to do. I couldnt in the past because of such a small tank and the in wall had its limits.
Treg, thanks for the tip on food. I've never seen Rod's food. I swear, I have so much different food now than ever before. I need a new pantry.
Nick, I did try scallops and oysters. None worked. I can always try the others like you said. Maybe they all have a different taste. I was hoping that the Oysters would give the fish the aphrodesiac it needed to kick them into gear.
tanya, thats how i wanted to do my chiller but it gets too humid in Houston. I have dedicated a utility room just for the chiller. Hope it works out ok. I will plumb it this weekend with the Closed Loop like naka recommends instead of the sump.
hawaii, thank you!
reefermonkey, have I aroused your curiosity?
Chad, Im waiting for that tracking # too. You know how it is.. international shipping can come anytime and may take weeks longer.
parshmar, do you take your students home to see your new fish tank?
818, you are probably right. This may be a first. Im definitely not ready yet, but i appreciate the nomination. I still have a long ways to go especially in the equipment room setup arena.
reefermonkey, thanks but Im just doing what I have always wanted to do. I couldnt in the past because of such a small tank and the in wall had its limits.
Treg, thanks for the tip on food. I've never seen Rod's food. I swear, I have so much different food now than ever before. I need a new pantry.
Nick, I did try scallops and oysters. None worked. I can always try the others like you said. Maybe they all have a different taste. I was hoping that the Oysters would give the fish the aphrodesiac it needed to kick them into gear.
tanya, thats how i wanted to do my chiller but it gets too humid in Houston. I have dedicated a utility room just for the chiller. Hope it works out ok. I will plumb it this weekend with the Closed Loop like naka recommends instead of the sump.
hawaii, thank you!
reefermonkey, have I aroused your curiosity?
Chad, Im waiting for that tracking # too. You know how it is.. international shipping can come anytime and may take weeks longer.
parshmar, do you take your students home to see your new fish tank?
818, you are probably right. This may be a first. Im definitely not ready yet, but i appreciate the nomination. I still have a long ways to go especially in the equipment room setup arena.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9545239#post9545239 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by invincible569
Maybe I will give you guys a little tease. Im trying to decide what's the best fixture for my supplemental MH's. I already ran into a problem with the stem being too long (too close to tank) and I am searching for a shorter one which is hard to find. That way I can move it back and put it higher. I will then order the fixture that suits the tank best. I plan to get another style soon. Each fixture has its benefits. The one with the barn doors helps keep the light in the tank vs the other one you see which puts the light on the wall and in the tank. The drawback to the barn door fixture is that light escapes through the slits (yellow light on ceiling). The best part will be my core lights I think which is yet to come.
Looks good Mr. Tease, you think you could post a bigger picture?
jnb
Premium Member
very nice - so much light that far from the tank and not much outside of the tank - . Except the barn door is alot closer, yes? Exactly what bulbs are in there de,se,par, 5500,14,000,20000k - something else? I am very curious as to what the core lights may be. How many watts total are you shooting for? - wow, way cool
Thanks for keeping me from going insane.
I'll pray to the shipping gods for you
Thanks for keeping me from going insane.
I'll pray to the shipping gods for you
Last edited:
invincible569
New member
Well, here is how I a plan to plumb my chiller. It will sit in this utility room which has a ceiling vent (like a restroom) and also 2 strong fans which suck out the hot air and place it in the garage. I also plan to put a temperature sensor in this room so I can monitor and efficiently turn off/on fans as needed. For example, when the chiller comes on, then all fans turn on.
Does anyone see any issues with the chiller plumb this way? Im about to permanently plumb it. It will be tied into the Closed Loop instead of the sump because the chiller wont turn on as much if the amount of water in the main tank is larger than what it is in the sump which may turn off/on more just to keep up with the new drained water in the sump. This is per naka's recommendations and makes perfect sense. The plumbing will go through the wall on the left side with the stand sitting right next to it.
Does anyone see any issues with the chiller plumb this way? Im about to permanently plumb it. It will be tied into the Closed Loop instead of the sump because the chiller wont turn on as much if the amount of water in the main tank is larger than what it is in the sump which may turn off/on more just to keep up with the new drained water in the sump. This is per naka's recommendations and makes perfect sense. The plumbing will go through the wall on the left side with the stand sitting right next to it.
invincible569
New member
zoos, If i post a bigger pic, then everyone will start to complain about the picture going off the screen.
brian, thanks bro! I cant wait to come over and see yours. Are you almost ready??
jnb, I think we are all insane. At least the human race is. For the barn doors, thats the problem I ran into.. the stem was too long. I need it to be as half as short, but thats the shortest the sell which was 18". Im in search for a shorter one but it also has to fit the connection. The bulb in the barn door long stemmed fixture is a 20k 150w vs the other which is a 65k 150w. They are DE integrated with PAR. My initial plan was to go with as low amount of light as I can. I think I already hit this mark. But I am also looking for something stronger for my SPS area on the left side. Therefore I ordered a stronger light fixture that will aim from the top since SPS corals tend to grow towards the light. In this case up/down. 65K shows best results for growth while 20K shows best colors for coral pigmentation. Initially, 65K on the left for SPS accelerated growth and then 20K once growth has reached a certain level for color enhancement. Since I will have more than enough light now, my photoperiod will run in a domino effect decreasing heat & light intensity while still providing enough photosynthesis for all corals to strive. Again this goes back to what area of the tank will have what corals. The 65K side will most likely have be more active than the right 20K (softies side). In other words, I plan to only keep my core lights on for maybe 4 hrs minimum.
I hope I didnt give out too much info!
brian, thanks bro! I cant wait to come over and see yours. Are you almost ready??
jnb, I think we are all insane. At least the human race is.
For the barn doors, thats the problem I ran into.. the stem was too long. I need it to be as half as short, but thats the shortest the sell which was 18". Im in search for a shorter one but it also has to fit the connection. The bulb in the barn door long stemmed fixture is a 20k 150w vs the other which is a 65k 150w. They are DE integrated with PAR. My initial plan was to go with as low amount of light as I can. I think I already hit this mark. But I am also looking for something stronger for my SPS area on the left side. Therefore I ordered a stronger light fixture that will aim from the top since SPS corals tend to grow towards the light. In this case up/down. 65K shows best results for growth while 20K shows best colors for coral pigmentation. Initially, 65K on the left for SPS accelerated growth and then 20K once growth has reached a certain level for color enhancement. Since I will have more than enough light now, my photoperiod will run in a domino effect decreasing heat & light intensity while still providing enough photosynthesis for all corals to strive. Again this goes back to what area of the tank will have what corals. The 65K side will most likely have be more active than the right 20K (softies side). In other words, I plan to only keep my core lights on for maybe 4 hrs minimum. I hope I didnt give out too much info!
jnb
Premium Member
my chiller directions say to reverse the flow about every 6 mths to clear out caught debris - so maybe this is a good time to put a valve system in that will allow easy reversing - just a thought I have been comtemplating
Why couldn't you take that extension down to your local shop to have it cut off and rethreaded?
so those bulbs are the ones/brand they sell with icecap par pendent?- did the ballst come with the fixture as well as the de reflector (plug and play) ?
Why couldn't you take that extension down to your local shop to have it cut off and rethreaded?
so those bulbs are the ones/brand they sell with icecap par pendent?- did the ballst come with the fixture as well as the de reflector (plug and play) ?
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9557156#post9557156 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by invincible569
Well, here is how I a plan to plumb my chiller. It will sit in this utility room which has a ceiling vent (like a restroom) and also 2 strong fans which suck out the hot air and place it in the garage. I also plan to put a temperature sensor in this room so I can monitor and efficiently turn off/on fans as needed. For example, when the chiller comes on, then all fans turn on.
Does anyone see any issues with the chiller plumb this way? Im about to permanently plumb it. It will be tied into the Closed Loop instead of the sump because the chiller wont turn on as much if the amount of water in the main tank is larger than what it is in the sump which may turn off/on more just to keep up with the new drained water in the sump. This is per naka's recommendations and makes perfect sense. The plumbing will go through the wall on the left side with the stand sitting right next to it.
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