I have worked with quite a few chillers (Aquanetics being the worst for me). Universal Marine Industries was one of the best models I used- we had a bunch of them, up to 5HP, and as low as maybe 3/4HP.
Most chillers have undersized plumbing ports for the flow they require. This can be an issue when they are plumbed inline with other items or on a closed loop such as yours. They restrict the whole line. What size ports are on yours?
UMIs chillers work great and are built tough. UMI makes commercial systems, lobster and seafood store displays, and large chillers for coldwater systems. (Most all of our displays were 56 deg) They all had 2" plumbing and flanges to get to the coils for cleaning.
Your condenser fan may be out of balance now that it has been bent, so try to measure the other blades clearances and bend it in tune with the others. Keep the coil clean, the fan motor lubed, and the connections tight. 86 the chiller cover for better heat removal, as long as it does not act as a duct.
You can also add a second thermostat to say, the sump, and use thesupplied Tstat for freeze protection. This way it is reading and running off of the general system temperature, not the evaporator barrel temperature.
Periodically check the suction line temperature leaving the evaporator. It should be nice and cool, but not freezing. Many chiller compressors require this cool gas to aid compressor cooling. You should be able to touch your compressor housing, but the discharge line will be HOT. After the condenser, the liquid line should be warm, but not hot (this is the line from the condenser to the metering device feeding the evaporator).
Alberto, Sorry to hear about all your problems!
) and I'm trying to figure out how to plumb it in. Thanks.
. Sorry for your troubles Ed.
