It arrived!!!!!

[SeaJayInSC]

Is this for your tanks? Stick with the standard DINs - or go convertible if you want to be able to switch from yoke to DIN easily - say, for a non-DIN buddy.

I realize that in some DIR circles, they recommend Y-valves, and consider H-valves overly complicated... But Y's are full of issues, too, and if it's redundancy that you're looking for, manifold a set of doubles and be done with it.

Your red tanks would look awfully spiffy with a set of Highland bands and a manifold...

There's an interesting converstion about H's and Y's here: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/dir/239164-h-valve-vs-y-valve.html .

I don't know of any DIR instructor that requires an H or a Y valve for a Fundies course... Which is all you should be thinking about right now. That said, if you take your Fundies in a single tank (and pass), you'll get a Fundies card specific to single-tank diving. If you take Fundies in doubles (and pass), you'll be much better prepared for the next course.

 

[tgreene]

It's funny that you posted that thread, because I read it about 45 minutes at the most before I asked the question. It looks like I probably need to begin thinking about doubles sooner than later then...

-Tim

 

[SeaJayInSC]

Lol... Great minds think alike.

How 'bout putting some miles on your new rig? Once you're all set with the adjustments and all, then you can buy another wing, a set of bands and a manifold, and one more first stage... And presto... Doubles.

All your skills - and your rig - will already be in place.

The truth is that it doesn't matter if you do Fundies in a single or a set of doubles... You're going to learn so much during that weekend that it won't matter what gear you have...

Get some diving done - and save for Fundies. The gear will come naturally. You're already waaaay better prepared than most!

...And don't plan on passing Fundies the first time out. It rarely happens - which means you'll probably have the opportunity to do it in both singles and doubles...

 

[tgreene]

Well, it's not like I wasn't planning on making that transition when I bought what I bought.

As I mentioned a few posts back, I may very well end up back in cave country this next week to dive the new rig. I also realize that it will be quite different diving an AL80 than either the Steel100's or Steel80's that we dove in Georgia. I hated the "turtle-ing", so I'm pretty confident that I'll dive this rig much more proficiently and efficiently.

-Tim

 

[SeaJayInSC]

Yeah, assuming that you weight the same (which would require an additional 4-6 lbs for the change in tank, but minus 4-6 lbs for freshwater vs. salt), I think you'll find that the AL80's trim out better.

That is, your center of gravity won't be so far back - it'll be more in the center of your body, which is where it belongs.

The net result is that the rig won't tend to "turtle," especially in the last 1500 psi...

Aluminum tanks also don't surface rust in salt water like those stupid HP steels do.

...And by the way... Did you ever once see those HP steels pumped up to their rated 3442 psi? Me neither. There, just like everywhere, they pump your tanks to 3000 psi... 3300 if you're lucky, which cools to like 3100.

My point is that they WEREN'T HP100's and HP80's... They were more like steel 85s and steel 65s at normal pressures. So really, the only difference is their bouyancy characteristics (good for those that need weight higher and further back - which we don't, since we're diving backplates and wings), the material they're made of (much worse in the water) and their initial cost (about three times the cost of an AL80... Which means that for the same cost, we could have had 3 AL80s instead of 1 "HP" steel).

I'm a big fan of steel tanks when they can be used to get rid of weight and improve your bouyancy and trim... Which CAN happen in freshwater when you're wearing a drysuit (you'll see when you get there). Otherwise, I'll stick to the age-old AL80 (which can always be had everywhere you go, so you'll never have to change weighting and trim).

AL80's (and it's identical but miniature AL40 brother) are also the tank of choice when it comes to stage bottles - so they're a great tank to own now, and won't leave you with gear you can't use later when you're caving.

 

[tgreene]

Without adding any additional weight, I'm at #12 due to the #6 SS Plate + the #6 STA weight. I always dove #12 in freshwater w/ a 5mm suit, so this is where I'll begin. I can always add trim weights if necessary.
-Tim

 

[SeaJayInSC]

At Ginnie, try a 3 mil suit coupled with an AL80 tank, your backplate and wing, and the lead weight removed from your STA. I think you'll find the rig spot-on.

Add the lead weight to the STA for a 5 mil suit and hood.

 

[tgreene]

I only have 1 mil and 5 mil suits... Keep in mind too that my fins are slightly bouyant.

 

[tgreene]

SeaJay: I just asked w/ Andrew about the "preferred" method for taking Fundies, and his response was to take it in the manner in which you ultimately plan to be diving... DOUBLES IT IS!

He also said that since you've been mentoring me, that I should be in a far better position to take the class in regards to performance and equipment issues, and to continue to get as much dive time with YOU as I possibly can before taking the class, because I will be a far better student because of it. That's quite the compliment to you my friend!!!

-Tim

 

[SeaJayInSC]

Aw, Andrew's just suckin' up because he knows he's about to sell me a dry suit.

Just kidding, of course... I'm flattered by the backhanded compliment. In all fairness, though, Andrew knows what I do about GUE divers - they all have been trained the same way, and if they passed, you'd be hard pressed to be able to tell them apart just on dive style alone... So while it's fun to consider it a compliment, he simply knows that nothing can prepare someone for a Fundies class better than diving with a DIR buddy.

Yeah, we need to get some more diving in, Tim... Focus only on GUE skill sets...

 

[tgreene]

Wetsuit arrived and fits perfect, with the exception of slightly bunching up under my arm pits, which is next to impossible to avoid with a "stiffer" suit...

Also, the only blue is a tiny strip on the outer edge of each calf, down to the ankle.

-Tim

 

[SeaJayInSC]

Very cool! Photos? We want photos of both the suit and you IN the suit.

How's the length of the arms and legs? How's the fit around the torso? It should be tight, but not so much as to be impossible to get in to...

Fit is probably the most important thing about a wetsuit.

Several of the panels on the suit ARE super-stretchy... Just not all of them (unstretchy neoprene lasts longer and keeps you warmer).

How do you like the welded and taped seams?

 

[tgreene]

As I said, the only place that isn't a perfect glove-tight fit is under the arms... The rest of it is absolutely perfect, and far superior to the Henderson Thermoprene which bunched up around my stomach and waist.

The suit looks and feels almost industrial in the quality, and I honestly haven't seen a wetsuit with actual knee pads in years!

I'll get full rig photos in a day or so, since the regs will be here tomorrow.

-Tim

 

[tgreene]

BTW: I've had to back off from the Florida trip, but am seriously contemplating going to dive Bonne Terre Mine this weekend, and will most likely take their Cavern Specialty course at the end of January.

If you're not familiar w/ Bonne Terre, GOOGLE it!

 

[SeaJayInSC]

As I said, the only place that isn't a perfect glove-tight fit is under the arms... The rest of it is absolutely perfect, and far superior to the Henderson Thermoprene which bunched up around my stomach and waist.

Yeah... Photos?

The suit looks and feels almost industrial in the quality, and I honestly haven't seen a wetsuit with actual knee pads in years!

Kevlar.

I'll get full rig photos in a day or so, since the regs will be here tomorrow.

-Tim

Cool! Looking forward to it...