JJ Stecchino's new 180g Starfire reef tank

[Birdmanbrian]

It's hard for me to clearly see the top plate of your stand, but I wonder if you could have cut out of the top of your stand and installed two stiffner boards (1x2's) just to the left and right of the cutout re-inforce where you cut. The stiffners would be installed to run anterior to posterior. The cutout would allow you to unscrew your collection cup and move appropriately to allow you enough room to slide out.

I just used a stiffner method to stiffen a 1/4 inch shelf in my sons room to hold his satellite receiver, the stiffner prevents bowing and Provides re-inforcement. Man I sure wish I could have posted sooner. I've been out of town at the Oregon Jamboree.

As far as supporting your stand, would felt allow settling once tank is filled? I also want to recommend you fill your sump, mark your hole placement for your Dart pump as settling would create stress on your plumbing connection to the pump when the sump is filled if it is on carpet beneath the stand.

I think the supporting pieces you choose would have to focus underneath the areas of the stand creating vertical support, if placed under area where vertical support is absent then unequal weight forces may be generated when your system is filled.

I love the remote switch idea, clever! Can't wait to see your tank previewed when it arrives, pretty exciting for you! Christmas is comming early for you.

I spent two days netting out 205 Koi fry. It hit 110 degrees few days ago and sparked my seventeen year old Koi to spawn, pretty cool! I have them quaranteened in a 30g tank in the pond for now. I start them on egg yolk to expand their tummies, next week I'll hatch brine for them

Take care.

Brian

 

[jjstecchino]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15459340#post15459340 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Birdmanbrian
It's hard for me to clearly see the top plate of your stand, but I wonder if you could have cut out of the top of your stand and installed two stiffner boards (1x2's) just to the left and right of the cutout re-inforce where you cut. The stiffners would be installed to run anterior to posterior. The cutout would allow you to unscrew your collection cup and move appropriately to allow you enough room to slide out.

I just used a stiffner method to stiffen a 1/4 inch shelf in my sons room to hold his satellite receiver, the stiffner prevents bowing and Provides re-inforcement. Man I sure wish I could have posted sooner. I've been out of town at the Oregon Jamboree.

As far as supporting your stand, would felt allow settling once tank is filled? I also want to recommend you fill your sump, mark your hole placement for your Dart pump as settling would create stress on your plumbing connection to the pump when the sump is filled if it is on carpet beneath the stand.

I think the supporting pieces you choose would have to focus underneath the areas of the stand creating vertical support, if placed under area where vertical support is absent then unequal weight forces may be generated when your system is filled.

I love the remote switch idea, clever! Can't wait to see your tank previewed when it arrives, pretty exciting for you! Christmas is comming early for you.

I spent two days netting out 205 Koi fry. It hit 110 degrees few days ago and sparked my seventeen year old Koi to spawn, pretty cool! I have them quaranteened in a 30g tank in the pond for now. I start them on egg yolk to expand their tummies, next week I'll hatch brine for them

Take care.

Brian

Thank you Brian.

I then did cut out a rectangular hole o the bottom panel of the sump, the right dimension to acomodate the sump snugly. I left a 1cm lip all around. This did not seem to weaken the stand at all. I placed a 1/4" thick closed cell foam below the sump. I also placed large pads of 1/4" thick felt under every support bean and corners. The stand rests leveled and is very stable.

The only way I had to fit the sump was through the bottom hole, so this helped me to avoid disassembling the back support beans.

I covered the remaining floor of the stand with the same closed cell foam.

The return pump has been plumbed to the sump through a segment of 1.5" spa flex pipe. This allow for some flexibility should the sump settle once filled. With all said and done I have approximately 1.5" clearance from the top panel to the top of the skimmer cup. This is not ideal but good enough to remove the cup easily. As melev pointed out the air vents on the top of the cup lid will dirty the wood. As he suggested I will place some contact paper on the top wood panel to make cleaning easier.

Good luck with the baby kois and thank you for helping.

 

[melev]

When the felt gets wet, it too may leave damage behind one day. But some things are pretty much unavoidable. You have to weigh out what is the best situation for your application.

 

[jjstecchino]

8-6-2009 Update

Last weekend Jerry and I moved the stand in the room that will house the tank.

The only way to place the sump inside the stand without dismantling it was from the bottom hole. A 1/4" thick foam pad was placed under the sump.

A picture from the front

and from the back

The sump fits perfectly. So do the two darts.

A close-up on the skimmer

It fits nicely and I have enough clearance to remove the cup. I will have to apply some contact paper on the stand top panel to facilitate cleaning as suggested.

 

[jjstecchino]

The tank came in and was placed on the stand on Tuesday.
The darkest windows tinting I could find was applied to the back panel. The tank has a 1.5" intake for the closed loop and for outlet. 2 on the back and two on the bottom panel

Plumbing then started.

Here is a picture of the inside of the tank with the closed loop spouts in place

I hit a stop at the moment because I need 2 different bulkheads for the durso returns. Unfortunately I cannot find them locally so I have to wait for my online order to be delivered on Monday

 

[jjstecchino]

In the meantime I got a few toys to play and get familiar with.
Here is the new Apex controller. It arrived on a nicely packed box.

Here is the content of the box:
The Apex itself
2 pH probes, one for the tank and one for the calcium reactor
Some calibration fluid
A cable for the variable voltage 0-10V output

Here is the apex out of the box

The controller itself

The display

The energy bar

Unfortunately the unit came with a defective USB cable and a defective Energy Bar. I should receive a replacement tomorrow

The unit is very nice. The web interface is a little bit rough considering the current state of web design. The graphs however are very well done. I am sure the web interface will be improved on future firmware releases.

The apex at the moment is not compatible with the iPhone application. The application connects and restive info from the apex correctly, however if you attempt to display graphs the apex reboots. Also you cannot control any outlets from the iPhone. Apparently a compatible version of the app is in development.

The engineering of the unit appear superb. The display is wonderful.

 

[Taqpol]

I think someone said awhile ago that if you could cut a hole out of the top piece of plywood on the stand that would free up another 1/2"-3/4" above the skimmer top. Now that I've seen the stand I'd say you should definitely do that but its a little bit late now that the tank is on there. Seems to me like the glass would be even easier to clean then the contact paper.

Are you going to push the tank up against a wall once all the plumbing is done or just leave it in the middle of the room? If so, do you have any plans for hiding the equipment out of sight?

That tank looks amazing and those CL outlets look like they're in the perfect places. I bet you're glad you waited for the manufacturer to send you the correct tank. Its gonna be really cool to see what you do with all this.

P.S. I'm definitely enjoying the SC weather now and plan on heading over to Star Aquatics either tomorrow or on Saturday!

 

[jjstecchino]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15485936#post15485936 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Taqpol
I think someone said awhile ago that if you could cut a hole out of the top piece of plywood on the stand that would free up another 1/2"-3/4" above the skimmer top. Now that I've seen the stand I'd say you should definitely do that but its a little bit late now that the tank is on there. Seems to me like the glass would be even easier to clean then the contact paper.

Are you going to push the tank up against a wall once all the plumbing is done or just leave it in the middle of the room? If so, do you have any plans for hiding the equipment out of sight?

That tank looks amazing and those CL outlets look like they're in the perfect places. I bet you're glad you waited for the manufacturer to send you the correct tank. Its gonna be really cool to see what you do with all this.

P.S. I'm definitely enjoying the SC weather now and plan on heading over to Star Aquatics either tomorrow or on Saturday!

Alex, the tank will go against the wall, just a few inches away from it, just to be able to get to the back panel for cleaning and maintenance. I am trying to fit as much as I can inside the stand, I am finding quite difficult to fit a carbon reactor, a phosphate reactor and the calcium reactor+co2 tank. It is a damn puzzle. The co2 tank will have to go into the nearby closet, where I plan to house the RO unit and the top-off reservoir.

On a different note I am glad you are enjoying SC. Jorge the owner of star aquatics may still be on vacation. He is a great guy. His son is holding the fort until he is back. They have a neat store.

By the way great shark picture at the Georgia Aquarium. I have not had a chance to get there yet but it is high on my list of priorities.

If you happen to be in Greenwood come and visit.

 

[jjstecchino]

P.S. I thought long and hard about your suggestion of cutting a hole on the top of the stand, however I got satisfactory clearance with just the bottom hole so I left the top alone. The enemy of good is better. Anytime I tried making work better something that already worked well, I always ended royally screwing it up and regretting it.

 

[melev]

Nice update. Looks like everything is coming together.

Do you think you might paint any visible PVC black to help it blend in?

 

[jjstecchino]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15486060#post15486060 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Nice update. Looks like everything is coming together.

Do you think you might paint any visible PVC black to help it blend in?

Yes Marc I was just thinking about that and about to post a question for you in your thread. The closed loop intake is so conspicuous and ugly that definitely needs painting. The quastion is: Can you suggest a reef safe paint that can be found at Lowes or Home Depot?

I was thinking to keep the front returns white and maybe disguise them with some rock. They will be sticking up from the sand bed so white is best color for them

 

[jjstecchino]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15486102#post15486102 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jjstecchino
Yes Marc I was just thinking about that and about to post a question for you in your thread. The closed loop intake is so conspicuous and ugly that definitely needs painting. The quastion is: Can you suggest a reef safe paint that can be found at Lowes or Home Depot?

I was thinking to keep the front CL outlets white and maybe disguise them with some rock. They will be sticking up from the sand bed so white is best color for them

 

[jjstecchino]

Ooops...... messed up!

 

[melev]

You can buy Krylon Fusion black spray paint at Walmart (of all places). It is designed for plastics, and once cured looks great. Let it dry for at least 24 hours before adding it to the water.

 

[jjstecchino]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15486170#post15486170 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
You can buy Krylon Fusion black spray paint at Walmart (of all places). It is designed for plastics, and once cured looks great. Let it dry for at least 24 hours before adding it to the water.

I'll do first thing in the morning.

Thanks a lot

 

[jjstecchino]

Marc, one more question, can you cement spa-flex to a street swipe? Is the shorter 3/8" lip on the street swipe vs 1 1/4" of the regular schedule 40 fittings enough to hold the spa flex? this will be a shorter segment on the return line, just gravity, no high pressure.

Thanks

 

[melev]

I know what you are talking about. Some plumbing fittings have short sockets, while others are a good 1" deep. Yours is 3/8" deep? That's pretty shallow, so be sure you can press it in all the way, and then support it somehow so it doesn't come apart.

 

[jjstecchino]

Marc, I am about to buy the lumenbright mini wide pendants from reefspecialty.
On their website they quote 16x16x7 as the dimensions. Looking at the proportions on the picture, they would appear taller then 7". Can you confirm they are actually 7" tall? I can fit 7 inches but if it is more than that I may have to look at a different solution.

Thanks

 

[melev]

The pendant is 7", but the eyelets that screw in the top add 1". You might be able to screw something else into it to connect it another way to your canopy.

 

[jjstecchino]

Thanks Marc I am going ahead and order them