JJ Stecchino's new 180g Starfire reef tank

Marc is correct, those salad bowls were designed to be a good 5-6" higher than it looks like you currently have them. Your canopy work looks sharp though.

I do have to say I am REALLY digging the look of the 20K Radium shooting down between the 2 10ks. You should keep that, it's quite unique and interesting.

Marc, didn't you do that for awhile but in the opposite scheme- with 2 12k Reeflux on the outside and a 10k in the middle?

Hi Insane. Glad you like the look of the center 20K radium. I think it is a little bit too blue comparerd to the sides. I may go with 12K on the side or 14K in the center with the next set of bulbs. The quest for the perfect balance begins......:lol2:
 
I've been burning 10,000K - 20,000K - 10,000K bulbs for five years now. I like that color combo, coupled with 6' Actinic VHO bulbs.

For the media, check the packaging. Each mfg recommends a different pH value. I tend to just keep it at 6.5.
 
I've been burning 10,000K - 20,000K - 10,000K bulbs for five years now. I like that color combo, coupled with 6' Actinic VHO bulbs.

For the media, check the packaging. Each mfg recommends a different pH value. I tend to just keep it at 6.5.

Initially the middle one looked too blue. Not only I am getting used to it but I am starting to like it!
 
November 2009

November 2009

Ok 1 month has gone by since the last post. Time for new pictures....

The leather coral has been relocated.
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A few corals were added

A Green Staghotn Acropora
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A Green Bushy Acropora
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A Purple Bushy Acropora
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A Metallic Green Frogspawn
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A T. Maxima
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And here is a FTS
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I have quite a bit of suspended particles. Most of them are copepods. I was thinking to put a 100 microns sock on the return for a while just to clean the water.

Opinion on this regard?
 
I have to confess I plagiarized Melev's tank on the lights.
I used the same bulbs he did, however his tanks seems much less warm on the sides and less blue in the center. In other word the contrast between center and sides is not so striking. I am not sure if we use the same ballast tough. I have all icecaps, 250 on the sides and 400 in the center.

Initially I thought the contrast was too much, but as time goes by it is growing on me and now I like it quite a bit.
 
Calcium reactor question.

The reactor is a Coralvue Octopus dual chamber loaded with coarse arm media. The reactor has a ph probe on the first chamber connected to the apex controller which in turn control the co2 solenoid. The controller is set to turn off co2 if reactor ph is less than 6.55 and turn on if ph is greater than 6.65. it also turn off co2 if tank ph is less than 8.10.

I have the reactor running for 2 months but I cannot increase alk and ca as I desire. Alk stays at 7-8 dKh and Ca at 390-400 (SG is 1.025 mg 1325)

The effluent rate was set at 30 cc/min which may be a little too low. Boubble count was 2/sec.

I increased the effluent rate to 60cc/min, however as expected the reactor ph went up to 6.9 and the current bouble count is not enough. To let ph drop to 6.6 I have to increase boubble count to 120/min or more. This seem excessive to me. At this rate I see small bubbles of co2 going through the arm media and returning into the co2 recirculation line. Is this normal?

Am I doing anything wrong?
 
I've heard that calcium reactors are really good for maintaining values, but not necessarily raising them. I would raise your values with a two part like system (baked baking soda will work perfectly for raising alk) over the course of a week or two and then see if the reactor can maintain those values.
 
I've heard that calcium reactors are really good for maintaining values, but not necessarily raising them. I would raise your values with a two part like system (baked baking soda will work perfectly for raising alk) over the course of a week or two and then see if the reactor can maintain those values.

I tried that. I used 2 parts to raise ca and alk. I had alk up to 9 dKh and Ca to 415, however as I did a water change (20% every 3 weeks) Ca and Alk went down again. The salt mix I am using is Red Sea Coral Pro with RO/DI water. I switched to this salt because Instant Ocean which I used earlier would leave a thick brown scum on my mixing container. This salt is very clean but my be low in Alk. I think I will give IO another shot. With IO Alk was always high 10-12 dKh
If I have Ca and Alk up to snuff then it should be easier on the ca reactor.

What do you think on the high boubble count I am needing to keep ph down on the reactor with effluent flow at 60 cc/min?
Is it normal to see boubles of co2 in the reactor water column?
 
I don't actually know much about Calcium reactors, I just switched over to an automated two part system with dosing pumps and I couldn't be happier. I do remember that when I was thinking about setting up a reactor I read Melev's page on them multiple times. He goes into detail about how you can raise or lower alk based on adjusting the bubble count or effluent rate.

http://www.melevsreef.com/calcium_reactor.html
 
I don't actually know much about Calcium reactors, I just switched over to an automated two part system with dosing pumps and I couldn't be happier. I do remember that when I was thinking about setting up a reactor I read Melev's page on them multiple times. He goes into detail about how you can raise or lower alk based on adjusting the bubble count or effluent rate.

http://www.melevsreef.com/calcium_reactor.html

I read Marc's page, I think I got the working of the reactor clear in my mind, however I am needing quite more co2 than others seem to be using.

Marc as well as others suggest to set the effluent at 60cc/min, then adjust the bubble count to obtain an effluent with a ph around 6.5. Marc said that the most he had to use was 3 bubbles per second. To bring down the ph on my reactor I have to use something like 5-7 bubbles per second which is way above what Marc does and seems excessive to me. Also at this rate I have co2 micro bubbles going all over inside the reactor and I don't know if this is normal.

Advice appreciated

On a positive note, I now have Alk of 11dKh anc Ca at 440 so even if excessive it seems to be working ;)
 
Great build thread. I am in the process of setting my 150 gallon tank. Just recently build my 70 gallon sump. Follow Marc's web site to build one. Now I am at the stage of designing the aquascape until I saw you curing your Marco rocks. Question, after the 6 hour vingear/ water bath. Did you cover the rocks to start cycling them? You cycle the rocks till your water test were zero, is this correct?
 
Great build thread. I am in the process of setting my 150 gallon tank. Just recently build my 70 gallon sump. Follow Marc's web site to build one. Now I am at the stage of designing the aquascape until I saw you curing your Marco rocks. Question, after the 6 hour vingear/ water bath. Did you cover the rocks to start cycling them? You cycle the rocks till your water test were zero, is this correct?

After the vinegar I rinsed them real well with tap water to wash away as much vinegar as possible. As you soak them in vinegar you will see the rocks fizzing, almost like putting an Alka-Selzer in water. The fizzing is the acetic acid in vinegar dissolving the calcium carbonate of the rock and releasing co2.

You want to stop that otherwise the rock "corrosion" will continue.

I then put them on a large vat with freshly made salt water. I did not bring salinity all the way to 1.025. I did something like 1.021 to save some salt.

I did not know if there are enough decaying organic on the rocks to start a cycle at this point. So I threw in a couple of large frozen shrimps.

I also put in 2 maxijet 1200 for circulation and the protein skimmer.

I would suggest against dosing vodka or sugar at this point. People who have done that suffered large bacteria blooms and horrible smell and die off from these rocks.

The rocks went to a slow cycle due to the low bioload. Ammonia went up a little bit and then returned to 0

After a week or so I started measuring about 0.01-0.03 of PO4 so I set up the GFO reactor that I was planning to put anyway on my display tank ( I used the bulk reef supply one which is cheap and so far has been working well for me). PO4 went back to 0 and stayed there.

At this point I continued building the display and just check on the rocks from time to time.

The skimmer was pulling out a good amount of dark grey pasty material that did not smell bad like usual skimmate. I believe it was residual ca carbonate dissolved by the vinegar. Perhaps the skimmer was an important part of the process. I am not sure. It kept the water clean.

I did only 1 30% water change at about 2 1/2 week.

I did not put them in the dark. They were in the garage away from direct sunlight but definitely in the light.

I cooked them for about 5 weeks. By the time I needed them to set up the tank the water had 0 ammonia nitrite nitrate and phosphate. They had a very very light layer of diatoms as i took them out, which I brushed off and rinsed in sw prior to putting them in the display.

The process has worked well for me. Marco rocks are beautifull, very light and are quickly becoming 'live' in the display tank.

Also I did something similar for the sand. I got aragonite sand from ebay. I do not recollect the vendor. There you have to pay attention because most of the sand on ebay is silica sand and not aragonite. This specific vendor had aragonite at a good price.

I cured the sand similarly to the rocks in a separate vat. Only shrimp and a powerhead.

I did all this in the summer with outside temp ~ 80 so I did not worry placing heaters anywhere.


Good luck with your build and link your thread here. I'd love to follow along.
 
Marco Rocks
I decide to PM you so it does not throw off your build thread. Thanks for responding back to my post. I have a few more.

When you did the vinegar bath did you do the 1:1 ratio? How long did you leave it in the bath? I do not want to leave it in too long and have the rock shrink.

Feel free to ask question in the thread so answers may be useful for anybody interested in curing these rocks.

The dilution is way less than 1:1. I tried that and using the wall-mart white vinegar it seemed too me way too strong. The rock rubble I tried that on was fizzing like crazy.

What I did was placing the rocks on a 50 gal container, filled it up with RO/DI water than added 5 gal of vinegar. the dilution was about 5g vinegar : 25 g water (1:5). I kept the rocks in the water for 4-5 hours. I would do between 4 and 6. You can see pictures of the water fizzing and the water after a few hours on Page 2 of this thread.

The rocks came out very clean. You can see before and after.

I also used a horse brush to scrub the rocks as they were rinsed after the vinegr treatment.
 
Awesome. I will start on the vinegar bath tonight. I will post some pictures on a new thread. Thank you for sharing. You have save me from the big headache on my build. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks for the info on the vinegar bath. I have some rock that I recently took out of a tank that had a bit of aiptasia and majano. I'll give the vinegar bath a try on that stuff.

--AJ
 
Thanks for the info on the vinegar bath. I have some rock that I recently took out of a tank that had a bit of aiptasia and majano. I'll give the vinegar bath a try on that stuff.

--AJ

I had aiptasia, believe or not survive a vinegar bath of 4 hours at 1:5 dilution. If you want to completely get rid of aiptasia and majano a bleach bath would be better. Use vinegar if you want to strip the surface layer of calcium carbonate rocks where phosphate may be bound.

If you need to get rid of living organisms a bleach bath and dry in sunlight is the way to go. Just don't put the rocks back in the water before you cure them. Bleach will kill everything, however the die off will need to decompose and the rocks will need to build up the bacteria population you killed with bleach
 
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