JJ Stecchino's new 180g Starfire reef tank
- Thread starter jjstecchino
- Start date
jjstecchino
New member
It is probably a CS8-X All CS8=8" in diameter X as follows:
CS8-1 - 20" tall - 1 sedra 5000 pump
CS8-2 - 24" tall - 1 sedra 5000 pump
CS8-3 - 30" tall - 1 sedra 5000 pump
CS8-4 - 36" tall - 2 sedra 5000 pump
CS8-5 - 48" tall - 2 sedra 5000 pump
Then they had CS12-X x=1-6 up to 72" tall
12" in diameter and X is the height as above+1 (i.e. CS12-1 ->24", CS12-2 ->30" etc.) with 2,3 or 4 sedra 5000 pumps.
Euroreef than changed to CS-XXX where XXX is the approximate size of the tank in gallons. These are basically the same skimmers with very few changes. One is the width of the connecting ring.
Measure the height of yours and you know exactly what model it is.
Can you post some picture showing the recirculation mod? I think I may mod mine in the future. ER sells a mod kit but I would be interested to see if I can do it without.
Taqpol
New member
Here are two pictures:
I thought mine was taller then 30" but I'm not at home to measure it. It only has the one Sedra 5000 so it has to be a CS8-3, though. So under the new naming system my skimmer is the same as yours, an RS250? (Or would that be CS-250? Whats the difference between CS and RS?)
As for as the recirc mod, mine looks pretty professional so the guy might have got it from EuroReef like that or he might have bought the official mod kit. Seems simple though, just drill two new holes and get uniseals for them. I don't know how he connected the PVC to the venturi on the Sedra intake, but I'm sure I could take a closer look if you want me to.
I'm feeding the skimmer with a Mag 5 because it matched the flow of the Sedra 5000, but I don't know if thats the correct way to run it.
jjstecchino
New member
Here are pictures of the different models
RS
The RS is the simplest one. Does not have a gate valve. I think that was added in the RS-Alpha series. Uses GenX 6000 pump
RC
The RC recirc setup is slightly different from yours. The outflow of the pump is higher in the skimmer body and has a 45° elbow pointing up. You can add that easily.
As far as the CS I could not find any pictures, possibly because are custom made to customer specs.
As far as the feed pump Euroreef recommends a pump that will provide 1 to 1.5 times the total system volume per hour.
i.e., If you have a 120 gallon system and running an RC250, you will need to provide between 120 to 160 gph to the skimmer.
Here is a link to the RC Series User Manual
RS
The RS is the simplest one. Does not have a gate valve. I think that was added in the RS-Alpha series. Uses GenX 6000 pump
RC
The RC recirc setup is slightly different from yours. The outflow of the pump is higher in the skimmer body and has a 45° elbow pointing up. You can add that easily.
As far as the CS I could not find any pictures, possibly because are custom made to customer specs.
As far as the feed pump Euroreef recommends a pump that will provide 1 to 1.5 times the total system volume per hour.
i.e., If you have a 120 gallon system and running an RC250, you will need to provide between 120 to 160 gph to the skimmer.
Here is a link to the RC Series User Manual
Taqpol
New member
Thanks Harold, I assume EXT stands for external. The guy I bought the setup from used it from 2003 to 2006 so the time frame makes sense for it being the older model. I still love the thing, even though I was feeding it with three times the water it needed it was still producing thick black gunk even though i skim extremely wet (fills the collection cup in a week).
I hope when other people come through this thread they want to know about EuroReef history, otherwise I just started a major hijacking.... :worried:
jjstecchino
New member
Not a problem at all! We learn from the forums and whenever we can give back useful information, it is just a good thing! Keep it coming.
jjstecchino
New member
I was thinking of modding my skimmer into a recirculating one. I might be able to use the existing GenX 6000 pump gluing into the ventury as suggested by 2frosty4u. The pump leaks a little bit from the volute, it does not matter as far as it is submerged, but it is a problem if it is out of the water. I will have to try changing the o-ring and see what happens. Otherwise I will follow the original plan and proceed with the mod as the pump dies and need replacement.
The modified EHEIM 1262 pump found on the RC-250 is $330 from Euroreef. The modding kit, which include the pump, seals and pipes and holesaw is $375. I was trying to do it cheaper than that. Any suggestions?
The modified EHEIM 1262 pump found on the RC-250 is $330 from Euroreef. The modding kit, which include the pump, seals and pipes and holesaw is $375. I was trying to do it cheaper than that. Any suggestions?
jjstecchino
New member
Here are some pictures of my remote controlled SW mixing vat.
I like to keep the SW vat in the garage and be able to do water changes without needing additional help. So I decided to rig a brute trash can with a pump and a couple of gate valves in order to mix the water and also to pump into the tank.
The pump is remote controlled in order to be able to turn it on or off without leaving the tank room.
Have you ever had a water hose you thought was absolutely, positively, securely placed into the tank, coming out and flooding the floor while you turn the pump on?
This contraption is to avoid just that.
Here is what it looks like:
The Brute Trash Can:
An utility pump has been rigged at the bottom of the tank
It feeds the gate valve system:
When the horizontal valve is open and the vertical close, the water recirculates into the vat for salt mixing. Vice versa, when the vertical valve is open and the horizontal close water flows to the barbed connector and to the tank filling hose.
I like to keep the SW vat in the garage and be able to do water changes without needing additional help. So I decided to rig a brute trash can with a pump and a couple of gate valves in order to mix the water and also to pump into the tank.
The pump is remote controlled in order to be able to turn it on or off without leaving the tank room.
Have you ever had a water hose you thought was absolutely, positively, securely placed into the tank, coming out and flooding the floor while you turn the pump on? This contraption is to avoid just that.
Here is what it looks like:
The Brute Trash Can:
An utility pump has been rigged at the bottom of the tank
It feeds the gate valve system:
When the horizontal valve is open and the vertical close, the water recirculates into the vat for salt mixing. Vice versa, when the vertical valve is open and the horizontal close water flows to the barbed connector and to the tank filling hose.
jjstecchino
New member
Now the remote controlled outlet. It uses standard parts that can be found at Lowes or HD.
A wall box
An electric outlet
A length of electric cord
A ceiling fan remote controlled switch/dimmer
The box has been cut to accommodate the ceiling fan remote switch
A bridge made with a strip of aluminum will hold the remote in place
Here the remote is secured in place
The electric cord connected
The box closed
The electric outlet installed
The cover plate is in place
And voila! Here you have a remote controlled outlet. Just plug it to the wall and plug the pump to one of the contraption outlets and use the remote to turn it on or off while you hold the hose into the tank.
All this is quite simple to build and greatly helps to make water changes less painful.
A wall box
An electric outlet
A length of electric cord
A ceiling fan remote controlled switch/dimmer
The box has been cut to accommodate the ceiling fan remote switch
A bridge made with a strip of aluminum will hold the remote in place
Here the remote is secured in place
The electric cord connected
The box closed
The electric outlet installed
The cover plate is in place
And voila! Here you have a remote controlled outlet. Just plug it to the wall and plug the pump to one of the contraption outlets and use the remote to turn it on or off while you hold the hose into the tank.
All this is quite simple to build and greatly helps to make water changes less painful.
jjstecchino
New member
I picked up the stand and canopy yesterday. The tank will be here Wednesday.
As anticipated the skimmer is quite tall and has barely enough clearance when it is resting on the stand. As it will be placed into the sump whose bottom is 3/8" thick + 1/4" padding under the sump, there will not be enough space to remove the cup.
The stand has a 3/4" bottom panel. I was thinking to cut off a 48"x20" rectangle just to fit the sump into it. This will lower the sump by 3/4" and give me enough clearance.
I am not sure if it will weaken the stand. It should not.
The other question I have is if it is necessary to put a foam pad between tank and stand. The manufacture recommendation is to go without. Opinion appreciated.
As anticipated the skimmer is quite tall and has barely enough clearance when it is resting on the stand. As it will be placed into the sump whose bottom is 3/8" thick + 1/4" padding under the sump, there will not be enough space to remove the cup.
The stand has a 3/4" bottom panel. I was thinking to cut off a 48"x20" rectangle just to fit the sump into it. This will lower the sump by 3/4" and give me enough clearance.
I am not sure if it will weaken the stand. It should not.
The other question I have is if it is necessary to put a foam pad between tank and stand. The manufacture recommendation is to go without. Opinion appreciated.
jjstecchino
New member
Here are some pictures of the stand
Front
Back
The 2 Darts on the right side of the stand with some initial plumbing
The corners from outside and inside
This is the skimmer inside the stand. Unfortunately it does not have a lot of clearance from the top panel. It is about 1". Just enough to remove the cup.
Once it will be placed inside the sump there will not be enough clearance to make it fit. I am thinking of cutting a rectangle from the bottom 3/4" thick panel to sink the sump into it and gain the 1" I need to make it work.
I am concerned, however that doing this may weaken the stand. The corner support is provided by the L shaped 3/4" plywood and by the vertical supports on the back and front of the tank. I am not sure if this kind of stand relies on the bottom integrity for extra strength.
Front
Back
The 2 Darts on the right side of the stand with some initial plumbing
The corners from outside and inside
This is the skimmer inside the stand. Unfortunately it does not have a lot of clearance from the top panel. It is about 1". Just enough to remove the cup.
Once it will be placed inside the sump there will not be enough clearance to make it fit. I am thinking of cutting a rectangle from the bottom 3/4" thick panel to sink the sump into it and gain the 1" I need to make it work.
I am concerned, however that doing this may weaken the stand. The corner support is provided by the L shaped 3/4" plywood and by the vertical supports on the back and front of the tank. I am not sure if this kind of stand relies on the bottom integrity for extra strength.
melev
Well-known member
I think cutting out the base of the stand is your best bet, as you asked in my thread. Can you leave some of the original wood within the base that the walls are affixed to? I would cut it out so the sump fits snugly. You could add a little extra wood (1x4 material cut to size) to beef up the inner perimeter of the underside, if necessary).
Something to consider: If the water ever gets under the stand, the flooring beneath will be wet as well. If you put wood under the sump, the wood will bow, and the sump will very likely crack. If it is wet carpet, it will rot. Not a big deal, but you'd have to replace the carpet in that area (or room) one day.
I would only put a sheet of foam under the sump, to insulate it and help level it.
That will give you a little more clearance for the skimmer, which you definitely need.
With the sump sinking into the stand some, you may need to choose a new hole location for the bulkhead feeding the Dart pump.
Something to consider: If the water ever gets under the stand, the flooring beneath will be wet as well. If you put wood under the sump, the wood will bow, and the sump will very likely crack. If it is wet carpet, it will rot. Not a big deal, but you'd have to replace the carpet in that area (or room) one day.
I would only put a sheet of foam under the sump, to insulate it and help level it.
That will give you a little more clearance for the skimmer, which you definitely need.
With the sump sinking into the stand some, you may need to choose a new hole location for the bulkhead feeding the Dart pump.
jjstecchino
New member
Jorge, the LFS owner made a similar remark. He suggested to get some kind of furniture blocks at lowes to elevate the bottom of the stand from the floor to allow air circulation that so that the eventual water spill would dry. I should have asked exactly what kind of blocks. Now he is on vacation for a couple of weeks.
He seems to think that as far as the corners are supported it should be fine. I wonder if thick felt pads on each corner and half way on the front and back perimeter would do the trick.
jjstecchino
New member
Progressing slowly but surely. Today I cut a 48"x20" hole on the bottom of the stand to accomodate the sump. I also cut the top panel to accomodate the bottom panel closed loop returns.
The tank should be here tomorrow. I can't wait.
I have been thinking a lot about the point Marc made about water getting under the stand. I think I am going to elevate the stand on large 1/4" felt pads in order to allow some ventilation under it and allow water to dry. If anybody have other suggestions please feel free to chime in.
The tank should be here tomorrow. I can't wait.
I have been thinking a lot about the point Marc made about water getting under the stand. I think I am going to elevate the stand on large 1/4" felt pads in order to allow some ventilation under it and allow water to dry. If anybody have other suggestions please feel free to chime in.
I had a similar problem fitting a G3 skimmer under my 100g, to remedy this I build a 2X4 frame the same dimension as the stand raising the stand by 1 3/4 in and then just got some trim moulding and painted it same color as stand, makes the stand base look alittle nicer and gives the added height to stand interior making cleaning skimmer much easier
jjstecchino
New member
Thanks Herogien,
I may need to go that direction as well. I cut the bottom panel and I will place some thick pads under the corners and center support. This should give me the needed clearance and also raise the bottom a little bit from the floor to allow some air flow, just in case I have a water spill under the tank. This would allow me to dry the floor with a blower if water spills underneath the stand . How do you handle a water spill with a complete frame all around?
