JJ Stecchino's new 180g Starfire reef tank

jjstecchino

New member
Hello fellows reef lovers.

I would like to introduce myself and talk a little bit about this new project of mine.

I have been in the hobby for about 4 years with a small 35g FOWLR tank. The tank is the home for a yellow tang, a couple of true perculas, a pink tipped haitian anemone (Condylactis Passiflora), a BTA and a multitude of crabs starfish and other invertebrates. There is a lot of life and it is a pleasure to watch.
The anemones over the years have overgrown the tank. The BTA is almost 3' when fully open.

The anemones are ready for a larger home and I am ready for a larger fish tank..... what a coincidence of events. Isn't that amazing when stars and astral forces conspire to to make things happen just right...

I have a room that with some work can accommodate a 72"x24" tank. I want a glass tank with Starfire front panel.

Initially I was looking at the Oceanic Ultimate series. They make a 72x24x30 (LxWxH) that will give some 215g worth of water. It does have Starfire glass on the front panel. Unfortunately when I inquired with my knowledgeable LFS, he told me that Oceanic is going to discontinue the Ultimate series and that there is no replacement model for that series as yet. He also told me that his distributor had one tank left on the size I wanted. I decided to pass on Oceanic mostly because of uncertainty on how warranty claims will be handled if they will not make these larger tanks anymore.

I then looked at Perfecto/Marineland. They have a 72x24x24 reef tank (180g). As custom order they will use starfire glass on the front panel and drill all the holes I need for the closed loop at a reasonable price. Since the holes are drilled by the manufacture the tank will have full warranty. I liked this so I ordered the tank. It will be ready in 4 weeks.

I am particularly concerned about warranty since my brother in law 215g AllGlass reef tank exploded out of the blue after 3 years of use. In front of his eyes a crack formed on the front panel from one of the bottom corners and within 30 seconds entire front panel shattered. What a mess!

The tank will have two corner overflow boxes with 1.5" bulkheads for the drain lines and 1" for the returns. Perfecto provides 1.5" Durso standpipes and Lockline with their reef tanks which is very nice.

The tank will have 5 extra holes drilled at the factory for the closed loop. The CL intake will be through a 1.5" hole located on the centerline of the back panel and 6" from the bottom. Variable currents will be provided by an Ocean Motions 4 way device. the CL returns will be 2 on the back panel approximately 2' from the side and 1' from the bottom and two on the bottom panel toward the front of the tank (6"from the front and 6" from the side panels).

I gave a lot of thoughts about the front CL returns. I believe that many tanks with all the returns concentrated on the back panel suffer from poor circulation on the front of the rockwork hence the need to ameliorate that with powerheads. I hope that rigging the front CL returns with a 45 elbow pointing up toward the back and center will obviate the need for additional powerheads. The CL will be powered by a Reeflo Sequence Dart pump that is very quiet and should supply in excess of 3000 GPH on this setup. I believe I can adequately hide the front returns with appropriate rockwork.

I was thinking to use a second Dart for the sump return but I am not sure if I will overpower the overflow boxes and/or the sump with such high flow. I understand that the Darts can be easily throttled back with a gate valve on their outflow without straining the pump and actually improving power consumption. I am not sure yet on which pump I will use for the sump return and I am open for suggestions.
The overflows on the Perfecto tank are rated at 600 GPH with their standard 1" bulkhead. I asked to drill and place a 1.5" drain bulkhead and I am not sure what the flow is going to be with this arrangement.

I would have liked to build a custom stand and canopy. I have the craftsmanship to do it, however I do not have neither the tools, nor the space to do this woodwork.
I looked at different commercially available setups and the one that I liked the most was again from Perfecto. It is the new Monterey series. Unfortunately the info on the net on this product is scarce at best. It seems that the manufacturer makes more models than what is shown on many online retailers. Most of the info I have was provided by my LFS.
The stand has removable side panels to facilitate working with larger sumps than you would be able to accommodate through the front doors.
The canopy has a piano type front hinged opening. In addition the front of the canopy has several doors that allow access for feeding without having to lift the entire canopy. This seems practical.
Even with the scarce info I have this product seem to be well thought out. The main concern I have since I could not get any dimension on this product is the height of the canopy.
I would like to be able to accommodate 3 LumenBright reflectors but I am afraid I will not have the necessary clearance and I may need to look at different alternatives.
If anyone has any more info or first hand experience with the Monterey series I would be very interested on it.

I will be building a custom acrylic sump. I very much like the design and ideas from Melev's web site. His site is fully packed with no bull plain useful information. I truly admire Melev's dedication and willingness to help other fellows beekeepers sharing his experience.
I like very much his "Modified model G" which has a right side skimmer compartment, a large refugium on the left side and a central return area that extends behind the refugium allowing for an external pump located on the left side of the sump (see Melev's Model G-Modified ). The return area can be used for frags propagation.
The Sump will house an Euroreef cs250 skimmer, calcium reactor at a minimum and whatever may become necessary or useful in the future.

I do not have infinite budget and I was thinking to start the tank with mostly base rocks (Marco Rocks) and Aragonite Sand with a few live rocks and enough live sand to seed and spark life.
For my previous tank I used aquacultured live rocks and live sand from Tampa Bay Saltwater. The rocks were absolutely gorgeous and the sand full of creatures, however the cost of stocking a 180g that way is way more than I can afford.

I am seriously considering a Neptune Apex controller. It looks as a very nice improvement over the AC3. It should start shipping by the time the new tank is ready to be delivered.

I have 4 weeks to prepare and keep on planning. I would very much appreciate any comment, suggestion, remark from the more experienced here. I am trying to think ahead in order to do the right thing (if there is such a thing) the first time around.

Whish me good luck and please feel free to chime in as you see fit.

I would be glad to report on the progress of this project as it develops so that somebody else may benefit and do not repeat the mistakes I will invariably make.

Howdy

Claudio
 
Pics will come.
All I could show right now is my old tank and the new tank room which is the kids current playroom. I have ordered the tank, stand and canopy. During the 4 weeks it will take the factory to make I will continue planning and buying necessary equipment.
 
Sump construction

Sump construction

Ok ... While I am waiting for the tank to be delivered, I decided to build a custom sump.

First of all I have to recognize and thank Marc Levinson (melev) for his precious advice and for the very useful website he maintains (melevsreef.com ). Without his help this project would not have come to fruition.

The sump is made of 3/8" thick acrylic. It is 48" long, 20" wide, 16" tall. It will hold when full approximately 65 gallons of water.

All the needed acrylic came from a single 48"x96" sheet.

I was told that any sump building project comes out better if it is done at the kitchen table, so I did not want to deviate from the standard.

Here is the work surface used for most of the work. right in the kitchen.
_DSC9534.jpg


Here are some of the tools used. In addition there was sand paper and a scraper
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I practiced first with few test joints. The hardest part to master is to squeeze the needle applicator and release it slowly while directing the needle tip to the seam. Weldon 4 is very thin and will drip on the acrylic otherwise. If it does it will mar the acrylic for sure.
_DSC9540.jpg


Here is the first seam getting glued between the side panel and the front
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The other side is coming up next. My assistant in the background is taking a break. I do not know if I can trust him with that fishing pole. At least if I will miss fish I know where they went.
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The back panel was glued next
_DSC9548.jpg


Then the baffles. I decided to flame polish the edges that were not going to get glued. I thought this would be easier than flame polish with the baffles glued in place.

Here is a rough edge
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Here is a polished one
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Here are the baffles getting glued. I needed a weight 'pronto' and the chair came into action
_DSC9562.jpg


The top was glued next. It will be routed leaving a 2" flange. The center piece will be used to build the refugium and the boubble trap. Again note the totally fashonable weights.
_DSC9564.jpg
 
Sump (continued)....

Sump (continued)....

Here is the result of my work for today. Need let the top cure then route it.
The bottom wil come next. I like to have access to the inside of the sump prior to gluing the bottom.
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Job permitting I hope to finish this sump tis week. More pictures to come. Stay tuned.[
 
Looks good. You've got a great way of writing, with innocent little quips sneaking in from time to time.

I trust my kitchen table because it is made of wood. Your glass table would make me nervous, but it seems like it hasn't let you down thus far. ;)

The two 1.5" drains can handle 1500gph each. The Dart moves 3000 to 3600 gph. I think the tank can handle it, but the question will be if the sump can. Your sump is 48" long, where the G-modified is 56" to 60" long. That additional travel time really does make a difference. Cutting back the flow with a gate valve or ball valve should help if you end up with microbubble problems.
 
Kitchen table

Kitchen table

Marc don't be nervous about the glass table. It is actually a very good surface to work on (unless you drop a hammer on it).
It is absolutely and ultimately flat and if any glue or other stuff gets to it it is very easy to clean. Glass is about 3/8.

By the way thanks again for all the help you gave me.
 
The DIY sump looks great. I'm looking forward to seeing it once you unwrap it. It'll be just like christmas morning...lol
 
The sump is finally finished!

The sump is finally finished!

Iam finally done with the sump.

Here is the top routed. The accessories inside still need to be built and glued.
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Here is the finished product. The refugium has been installed.
_DSC9580.jpg


As well as the bubble trap.
_DSC9583.jpg


Now it is time for some testing..... (fingers crossed)

The refugium is full and overflowing...
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Now it is time for the skimmer section...
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Now all the way to the brim. And.......
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WOW.... NO LEAKS.

The skimmer section with water flowing. The baffle area getting filled
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Now it is time to dry the thing up, clean, polish and keep it full of water for a few days. Just to make sure
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It is a lot of work but I have to say very rewarding at the end!
 
Skimmer

Skimmer

Here is the skimmer. It fit perfectly on the new sump
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Here is the skimmer in action. The bubbles are not very fine but is running on fresh water
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15264297#post15264297 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by virginiadiver69
Impressive.
I'll be building my own "melev" sump in the near future myself.

Best sump design around. Very well thought out. Go for it!
Marc is a great guy and very helpful
 
Regarding your skimmer's output plumbing, I would cut the downward section of pipe so it is exactly 1" under the normal water depth. If those baffles are 9" tall, the water level will be 9.5" high in that section. The pipe should be 8.5" off the base of the sump.

This avoids back pressure with that skimmer. If you don't want to cut that pipe yet, you could use a different one (if you have the right size) to run your own test before you decide to mod the ER-gray pipe.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15273334#post15273334 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Regarding your skimmer's output plumbing, I would cut the downward section of pipe so it is exactly 1" under the normal water depth. If those baffles are 9" tall, the water level will be 9.5" high in that section. The pipe should be 8.5" off the base of the sump.

This avoids back pressure with that skimmer. If you don't want to cut that pipe yet, you could use a different one (if you have the right size) to run your own test before you decide to mod the ER-gray pipe.

That's a very good point. I'll do that. The pipe is regular schedule 80, part of a gate valve mod so I don't care to cut it as needed.

I am worried about being able to fit the skimmer. I find out that the inside of my stand is exactly 31.25", the skimmer is exactly 30" the sump bottom i 3/8 and I need a little bit of styrofoam underneat. It should give me 1/2" of clearance, which should be enough to remove the cup. However this is all theoretical. I will be satisfied when I can actually see the skimmer fitting into the stand.

What is the thinnest styrofoam I should put under the sump?

Also I filled skimmer and sump with fresh water and once turned it on just to try it. It didn't make the fine bubbles that you normally see on other skimmers. Does it have to do with the water being freshwater or it may be that the pump is no good?
I have never run a skimmer with freshwater before!
 
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