JJ Stecchino's new 180g Starfire reef tank

Awesome. I will start on the vinegar bath tonight. I will post some pictures on a new thread. Thank you for sharing. You have save me from the big headache on my build. :thumbsup:

Bolo, please note I used the fiji marcorocks which are pretty much coral skeletons and pure ca carbonate. If you are using the key largo variety, I do not know what they are made of. On a previous tank I used Florida maricultured rocks from Tampa Bay Saltwares. Thiese rocks were beautifull, heavilly encrusted with coralline, sponges and all sort of living things. However the base rock was obtained from a quarry and dropped into the sea.
These rocks were heavy and not nearly as porous as the fiji marcorocks.

I dont know the composition of these rocks but they look like rocks and not coral skeletons and if they are not made of calcium carbonate I doubt vinegar will work.

I am telling you this because I dont know if you got the fiji or the key largo variety. This last one which appears very similar to my old rocks.

If you have the key largo before you do the all shabang with the vinegar, drop a little piece of tobble in a glass of vinegar. if it does not fizz the vinegar likely will not work.
 
I have Fiji rocks just like you. I have about 120lbs of it. I am building a 150 gallon SPS tank. The reason I went with dry was because I was tired of getting hitchhikers or aiptashia or bubble alage that came from the LFS. I have tried so many ways of getting rid of the stuff but does not work. So basically I am starting fresh and doing the build right.
 
I have Fiji rocks just like you. I have about 120lbs of it. I am building a 150 gallon SPS tank. The reason I went with dry was because I was tired of getting hitchhikers or aiptashia or bubble alage that came from the LFS. I have tried so many ways of getting rid of the stuff but does not work. So basically I am starting fresh and doing the build right.

You will need some live rock to seed the new rocks, otherwise you will never have coralline or other interesting life. If you dont even want to come close to LFS live rocks look at the "GARF Grunge as an alternative to spark life on the beautiful but lifeless Marco Rocks
 
I have some LR from my current tank that are clean. I will seed it with that. I also saw some bacteria starter at the LFS. It is store in the fridge and they swear by it. Can't really believe them until I see it for myself.
 
I wouldn't be concerned about bacteria that much. If you cook the rocks for 4 weeks they will be pretty much cycled. Nitrifying bacteria are everywhere. Even in the air. Marco rocks will lack the biodiversity that hou have on ocean live rocks. Coralline, sponges, crustaceans, beneficial alga etc.
I also used some of my old rocks, however in my tank it is not enough. As I come back from vacation I am going to order some corals from garf (they have awesome ones) and a fee pounds of garf grunge to sprinkle on the rocks
 
Can the rocks by cycle without being seeded? After cycling, can I increase the calcium supplement to start the coralline? I believe they call it purple up.
 
Calcium or purple up will help existing corline grow but they do not contain the living organism per se. You need something with coralline and other living things to start things up. The rocks will get colonized by nitrifying bacteria as far as you have a sour e of ammonia. This will be provided by the decaying material from the rock as you cure them. For good measure I threw a couple of frozen shrimps in the curing water just to provide more ammonia
 
Just finished your thread to this point - Great information and writing. I really appreciate your efforts and letting us come along. I'm in for the rest of the ride. I'm looking to build a 180 in the next year or so and use my 120 for a sump. I've learned so much from RC and my limited experience so far. So many things I want to do differently and better in the future build. I really enjoyed your thread thus far and look forward to the growth of your new reef. Really looks great - possible TOTM in the future :dance:
 
Just finished your thread to this point - Great information and writing. I really appreciate your efforts and letting us come along. I'm in for the rest of the ride. I'm looking to build a 180 in the next year or so and use my 120 for a sump. I've learned so much from RC and my limited experience so far. So many things I want to do differently and better in the future build. I really enjoyed your thread thus far and look forward to the growth of your new reef. Really looks great - possible TOTM in the future :dance:

Thank you for reading along, I hope you have found useful information. This is my first "large" tank and as you are doing I read a lot and asked many questions on RC prior to embarking on this project. I am glad I did it. This community has many enthusiastic people that can give you excellent, no bull advice based on personal experience and that is what you need.

I am happy with my tank and on how it is coming along at this point and I have to thank for this the many people who helped me on this community.

I thank you very much for the vote of confidence (TOTM), it makes me feel good, however there are many more builds much more deserving than my humble one.

Thanks for reading
 
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New fish and Power Blue Tang Aggression

I just finished quarantining the second batch of fish for the tank and run into a lot of trouble with aggression from the PBT.

The new fish are:

6" Blonde Naso Tang
4" Scotts' Wrasse
1" Gramma Loreto x 2
2" Firefish Goby x 2
1.5" Scooter Blenny
1" Red Banded Goby

The current inhabitants are:

2.5" Powder Blue Tang
3.5" Yellow Tang
4" Diamond Goby
1.5" Clown Percula x 2
1.5" 6 Line Wrasse

The existing fish were coexisting pacefully for the past 3 months. The only sign of aggression I have wittnessed was an occasional squermish between the yellow and Powder Blue Tang right after they were introduced. Nothing really major.

Prior to introducing the new fish, I fed the old one, turned off the lights and after a while introduced the new fish. Left the tank in the dark overnight. As the lights went on in the morning the PBT realized about the new guests and hell broke lose.

He started attacking the Naso, mainly with tail strikes. The Naso was initially frightened but being much larger soon realized that the PBT was not a real treat so he stopped running away. As suddenly as it started the PBT stopped harassing him, almost as the aggression switch against the Naso went off. Now they cruise around like old buddies.

Then the PBT started harassing all the other new fish, particularly the Firefish Gobies and the Scott's Wrasse. The firefish gobies are fast and the PBT did not really catch them, however after a while they have disappeared into the rockwork.

The Scott's got the worst of it and got almost killed. The PBT attacked him unrelentingly. The scott's was pinned to the glass and being bitten to death.
The Scott's wrasse should be an assertive fish and I am surprised he did not even tried to defend himself. As I received him from the online store, he seemed quite weak, however he perked up quite a bit during quarantine.

Since it is impossible to net the PBT, I had to take the Scott's out to prevent sure death and placed in the refugium where he seems to be recovering well. He is swimming around and feasting on the copepods that are abundant in the refugium. Hopefully he will not eat them all.

With the Scott's out things have normalized quite a bit, however as the firefish try to get out of their hidings the PBT darts at them until they retreat into the rocks.

I bought the PBT against my best judgement. I knew I should have added it last but the LFS had this excellent specimen and I couldn't resist.


The question is what to do now? I really would like to add the Scott's back to the display once he is strong again. Any trick to lower the PBT aggression?
Taking the PBT out would be impossible at this point.
 
It has to be possible to get the Powder Blue out. Just get a really big net and sit it in the tank for a few hours, eventually he won't notice it and you can try and net him. It will probably take a few tries but I'm sure you'd get him eventually. Then I would plop him in the QT for a month to let the new fish acclimate and then reintroduce him.

Before he died my PBT had the worst aggression towards my yellow watchmen goby and would always chase him back into his hole. That being said, he was by far my favorite fish and I would have done everything possible to keep him.
 
It has to be possible to get the Powder Blue out. Just get a really big net and sit it in the tank for a few hours, eventually he won't notice it and you can try and net him. It will probably take a few tries but I'm sure you'd get him eventually. Then I would plop him in the QT for a month to let the new fish acclimate and then reintroduce him.

Before he died my PBT had the worst aggression towards my yellow watchmen goby and would always chase him back into his hole. That being said, he was by far my favorite fish and I would have done everything possible to keep him.

Alex, unfortunately I do not have a lot of space to manouver a large net because of the rock work. If I must take him out I'll need to try with an acrylic trap as Melev did for his Regal Tang.

The PBT aggression seems better now that the Scott's is in the sump. I am going to let the Scott's recover for a week or so and then try to reintroduce him inside a sheltered clear box so that he can be seen but not harmed and see what happens.

There have to be a way to diffuse aggression of this fish!
 
Update PBT Aggression.

3 Days have passes since the introduction of the new fish. The PBT seems to have settled down. One of the grammas and one of the fire fish are out and swimming in the open. The PBT does not seem concerned with them anymore. The fire fish is even swimming around the PBT without triggering any aggressive behavior.

The Scott's wrasse is still in the refugium and doing well. I think he is scarfing on copepods. I hope he will leave enough to repopulate the refugium. He is funny as he sticks his entire body into the dense mass of chaetomorpha to get copepods and small shrimps.

Next weekend I am going to try to reintroduce him on the DT and see what happens. If I see excessive aggression he is going back into the sump until I build an acrylic shelter to be placed into the DT with the Scott's inside so that he can be seen but not hurt.
 
I just read your whole build! SOOOOO IMPRESSIVE!!!
Wow! I'm totally speachless!
Best wishes with your fishes! ;)

Best wishes for a speedy recovery to your fishes as well. It is very stressful to get an ich outbreak, tear down the tank, set up a HT whithout being prepared and deal with poor water quality that may stress and kill the fish perhaps more than ich itself.

I believe the reason many people are against quarantining is very practical: During quarantine they see their fish health decline and quite often this is because poor water quality. I believe that with a little bit of preparedness this can be avoided. Pre seeding the filter sponges and filling the QT with DT water works very well and gives you an instant cycle
.
I really like Quinine Sulphate as compared to copper for several reasons: First and foremost it is very effective against cryptocaryon, it is effective also against resistant strains that have been described. Second it is selective against protozoan so does not kill the nitrifying bacteria in the filter. For me the main draw back on using copper was the instant wipe out of the biological filter and resulting in instant decline of water quality. This was more detrimental to the fish than ich itself. I wish I could but I do not have the time to do water changes twice a day. Third QS is very well tolerated by the fish, as you dose the QT I haven't seen yet any bad reaction at all. The fish keep on swimming as normal. breath normally and behave normally. I like that as opposed to copper where soon after adding it, the fish became agitated, start bolting and clearly show signs of irritation.

The only thing I hope is that LFS and transhippers keep on using copper in their systems. If quinine use become widespread we are bound to see the appearance of quinine resistant cryptocaryon that usually will replace the sensitive strain killed by QS. As this happens we will lose one of the most effective treatments against ich.

While I am writing this post I kept on thinking on why you may have had this ich outbreak. You were running a stable tank for some time. I believe it is important to try to do some kind of root cause analysis and try figure out the cause of what have happened, and especially rule out the presence of a slowly creeping up problem in your system (mainly thinking water quality issues beyond the parameters we usually test for) that may have contributed to a decline on your fish health and ultimately the ich outbreak.



You will probably need to do some water changes as needed anyway and I do those with DT water. My DT also benefits from these more frequent water changes
 
Clam Trouble

Clam Trouble

12-14-2009 Clam Problem

About 3 months ago I bought 3 clams from Liveaquaria's Diver's Den. A beautiful 5" crocea, a 4" maxima and a 3 1/2" squamosa. Shortly after I had to go out of town for 2 weeks. As I returned the crocea was gone. My son who was attending to the tank told me that the clam fell from its perch on the rocks. He repositioned it but not knowing better the crocea was placed on its side. I am afraid this caused the clam demise.

The other two were doing very well. The maxima still looks good the mantle is nocely colored and extended, however not to the full extent.

The problem is the squamosa. About two weeks ago the mantle started to show pinching on one side. The extent of pinching slowly increased and then started to affect the opposite side. Most of the mantle was still extending with the light cycle and shade reflex was brisk.

Thinking of PMD I gave the clam a temperature adjusted fresh water dip on RO/DI water for 30 minutes. I did that 2 days ago. Since then the entire mantle look pinched and has not extended again. Over these two days the mantle seens to be extending a little bit more every day, but just barely beyond the shell. The clam still have good shade reflex. The first day there was a little bit of gaping that seems to have resolved.

Is all this normal after a fresh water dip?

Also just after the dip as I repositioned the clam on the sand, the nassarius snails came off the sand and were actively seeking the clam. Since they are normally attracted to dead animals I thought that this was an ominous sign and that I killed the clam with the fw dip. I repositioned the clam higher on the rocks away from the snails and it is still alive so far however still does not look normal.

Can anybody comment and describe their experience with PMD and FW dips and what to expect and look for in the following days?

Thanks
 
Since clams decline quickly, the best recommendation I can give you is to post this in the Clam Forum for faster help. Or go to ClamsDirect.com's forum and ask there.
 
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