Join me for a strange one...

[Everyones Hero]

I've also experimented w/ using WO 16 almost like using silicone, ant just running beads along the edge. Haven't had any issues with that sort of fix yet either, but I don't trust them as much.

I've done that on a few things & it's fixed leaks for me. I've used those razor type knives for cutting acrylic, which makes it impossible to get a perfectly straight, clean cut so there are usually gaps once everything is glued together.

Run a bead of WO down the seam & it fixes the leaks.

 

[BeanAnimal]

WO 16 is often misused...

While it is thicker than solvent alone, it is still MOSTLY solvent. Most folks use it to lay down a thick bead as if it were glue. The "bead" dries, but because it skins over first, it dries hollow as the solvent evaporates and leaves a void.

WO16 should be used like any other solvent cement, the pieces need to be soaked and allowed to soften, then pressed together and held. Because the 16 has SOME acrylic monomers in it, it can be used to fill tiny voids, but in most cases needs to be done in successive layers.

I suggested using it to fill the tiny airspace in the joint, as the solvent will NOT fill the space because once it softens the joint, there is no new material to FILL the joint. At least injecting 16 into the void will leave SOME new acrylic behind.

 

[chimmike]

FWIW, those hobby store drill bits, the tiny ones, have hand drill adapters so you can drill it yourself without the power tool, thereby eliminating the risk of melting/overheating it.

 

[kcress]

1) Drill from the inside of the tank
2) Use inject WO 16, the solvent will not fill the void.
3) use a lighter to open your needle back up.

I can't get in the tank.. The people who can are not skilled enough in using a Dremel to those exacting requirements.

Since its in the rear, how about rigging a patch on the inside?

That's really the only option I can think of. As that wouldn't require more skill than, "Here, stick this in the corner and hold it."

I assume getting the tank back off the stand would be a huge chore. Does make fixing things a lot easier.

When I rebuilt the 250, which needed fixing in several places I got the tank up at an incline and ran WO 3 in to the seams. Filled things in nicely. Not being one to leave well enough alone, I also used a bead of WO 16 and pressed a thin strip of 1/4 by 1/4 square acrylic into the seam. Hasn't leaked since... yet.

If it were me, I would redo every edge to feel better.

I've also experimented w/ using WO 16 almost like using silicone, ant just running beads along the edge. Haven't had any issues with that sort of fix yet either, but I don't trust them as much.

Moving the tank would be a huge disaster. I would have to cut out almost all the plumbing. Then work the tank back out of that space then turn it in a manner that wouldn't allow it to balance... I am starting to entertain putting a big corner piece in. That back problem was not actually leaking, (yet).

Wow, what a bummer! On the bright side, at least you caught it early.

Yeah.. :blown:

I've done that on a few things & it's fixed leaks for me. I've used those razor type knives for cutting acrylic, which makes it impossible to get a perfectly straight, clean cut so there are usually gaps once everything is glued together.

Run a bead of WO down the seam & it fixes the leaks.

Interesting.

WO 16 is often misused...

While it is thicker than solvent alone, it is still MOSTLY solvent. Most folks use it to lay down a thick bead as if it were glue. The "bead" dries, but because it skins over first, it dries hollow as the solvent evaporates and leaves a void.

WO16 should be used like any other solvent cement, the pieces need to be soaked and allowed to soften, then pressed together and held. Because the 16 has SOME acrylic monomers in it, it can be used to fill tiny voids, but in most cases needs to be done in successive layers.

I suggested using it to fill the tiny airspace in the joint, as the solvent will NOT fill the space because once it softens the joint, there is no new material to FILL the joint. At least injecting 16 into the void will leave SOME new acrylic behind.

I see.. Well I've already used the #4 and the front edge repair is optically undifferentiable from the rest of the seam, so I hope that gap was so narrow as to have re-welded..

FWIW, those hobby store drill bits, the tiny ones, have hand drill adapters so you can drill it yourself without the power tool, thereby eliminating the risk of melting/overheating it.

Nice tip! It must be a collet like the set you get with a Dremel. You make a good point though. I bet I can chuck the Dremel collet in any drill's chuck.

 

[kcress]

So I guess what I am going to do with the back is this:

Take a 3/4" square rod.
Relieve the three inside edges so it fits tight up against the corner.
(The two bottom edges and the corner)
#16 everything in sight and jamb it into the corner.
Hold in place for 5 minutes.

Are you all with me on this?

 

[BeanAnimal]

relieve the corners... Is there a bead in the corners already?

 

[H20ENG]

Uggh.

I assume the bead you are referring to is just the glue squeeze out from original fabrication? I'd just relieve the rod corners rather than the tank corners. Just dry fit it a bunch of times to make sure its sits flush. Can you get some WO 40? I guess the 16 would work, but I hate that stuff for the reasons Bean mentioned. Its got to go on real thin. I was thinking with 40, you create a dam with tape in the corner then fill it up. It'd be a bear to polish out though.

I'd go over every seam with a fine tooth comb at this point to see if there are other bad spots. If it were me, I'd glue gussets around the whole thing.

Give James a shout. He'll tell you to replace the tank, but he will give you the best opinion out there

 

[BeanAnimal]

Give James a shout. He'll tell you to replace the tank, but he will give you the best opinion out there

He's not that....

Well then again come to think of it, he may tell you to replace the tank

 

[BeanAnimal]

Uggh.

I assume the bead you are referring to is just the glue squeeze out from original fabrication? I'd just relieve the rod corners rather than the tank corners. Just dry fit it a bunch of times to make sure its sits flush. Can you get some WO 40? I guess the 16 would work, but I hate that stuff for the reasons....

I agree 100%...

fit the rod to the corner, not the inside corner to the rod and use #40 if you there is ANY concern.

 

[khaosinc]

Didn't see you were in CA, guess they have WO 3 banned there.

I assume WO 4 is similar in the way it acts as a thinner for 16. I've found that a light coat of it over the 16 does wonders for getting rid of the little bubbles 16 is often prone to leave if not installed perfectly.

 

[kcress]

relieve the corners... Is there a bead in the corners already?

Yes - a very small one.

 

[kcress]

Uggh.

I assume the bead you are referring to is just the glue squeeze out from original fabrication? I'd just relieve the rod corners rather than the tank corners. Just dry fit it a bunch of times to make sure its sits flush.

Yes it's quite minuscule. Yes, I'm talking about relieving the corner piece - not the tank.

Can you get some WO 40? I guess the 16 would work, but I hate that stuff for the reasons Bean mentioned. Its got to go on real thin. I was thinking with 40, you create a dam with tape in the corner then fill it up. It'd be a bear to polish out though.

Oh, hey I'm up for that! Polishing is not even vaguely an issue as this back corner will be covered by MMLR. Does WO 40 melt into the surrounding acrylic for a seamless bond? Can I use masking tape for the dam?

I'd go over every seam with a fine tooth comb at this point to see if there are other bad spots. If it were me, I'd glue gussets around the whole thing.

There are two other places - 4/5ths the way up the left front seam. It's a circle about half the seam width - no chance of leaking. But I will give it the drill treatment anyway.

And the front left bottom - same as the right bottom BUT not spanning the joint, only about 2/3rds of it. Drill treatment too.

Give James a shout. He'll tell you to replace the tank, but he will give you the best opinion out there

I'll go drag him over here.

 

[kcress]

I agree 100%...

fit the rod to the corner, not the inside corner to the rod and use #40 if you there is ANY concern.

Yes the rod! Why would anyone even guess I'd relieve the tank? How would a fool even attempt it? :lol:

So you like the cast-in solution over the rod too?

Where does one get #40 not in 5 gallon $400 pails?

 

[kcress]

Didn't see you were in CA, guess they have WO 3 banned there.

I assume WO 4 is similar in the way it acts as a thinner for 16. I've found that a light coat of it over the 16 does wonders for getting rid of the little bubbles 16 is often prone to leave if not installed perfectly.

#4 is just the typical water thin stuff. Actually much thinner than water.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Didn't see you were in CA, guess they have WO 3 banned there.

I assume WO 4 is similar in the way it acts as a thinner for 16. I've found that a light coat of it over the 16 does wonders for getting rid of the little bubbles 16 is often prone to leave if not installed perfectly.

PA has the some nitwit VOC laws the CA has... The folks who come up with these laws have their heads up their rears. Lowering VOCs to save the environment and people's health sounds wonderful until reality sets in...

Reality is that the LOW VOC coatings, solvents and adhesives are nowhere near as strong or efficient as their high VOC counterparts.

This means that bridges need to be painted every 2 years instead of every 10, decks need to be stained every year instead of every 3... More adhesive or solvent must be used to do the same job as the older products.

Add up the raw materials, transportation, labor, and lower overall life of products made or protected with LOW VOC solvents, adhesives and coatings and the environmental impact and human exposure to chemical laden compounds is easily tenfold what it was with the "terrible high VOC products".

Sorry for the rant... but the lack of common sense in our laws sometimes sends me over the edge.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Yes the rod! Why would anyone even guess I'd relieve the tank? How would a fool even attempt it? :lol:

So you like the cast-in solution over the rod too?

Where does one get #40 not in 5 gallon $400 pails?

Talk to James

 

[kcress]

Talk to James

Hey I work in electronics. The same morons are now lining us up for many billions in losses, increased ewaste, and lost lives, with their moronic switch to lead free solder.


I paged James - hopefully he can come over and give us his opinion.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Don't get me started on ROHS.... Stu, how are those tin whiskers treating you?

 

[H20ENG]

I think ridout plastics sells little cans, and maybe sdplastics. I forget where I saw the little (but freaking expensive) cans.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Ridout lists pints on their webstore for $25 each.