der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Sorry Keith, didn't mean to hijack. The tank in the pic is described in this thread:
http://fingerlakesreef.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3343
http://fingerlakesreef.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3343
Join me for a strange one...
- Thread starter kcress
- Start date
kcress
New member
Here's a 1,400g plywood tank propped up to pour corner fillets:
Courtesy of user dnash on the fingerlakesreef forums.
WOW. That is exactly what I'm NOT up for. LOL
I did think of your corner filleting as soon as "sit it on a corner" came up.
kcress
New member
The pictures are all hosted on www.box.net
Your browser or your firewall is mistakenly blocking things from that site.
Just try going to that site and see if you make it. If you don't - figure out why.
Everyones Hero
New member
Instead of putting it on edge why not get some thin strips of acrylic & tape them into the corners, creating a triangle in each corner. The fill the hole with WO.
Did that make sense at all?
Did that make sense at all?
kcress
New member
Hero, what teesquare said,
AND the fact that you can't generally find triangle that's 3/4", only 1/2" or smaller. Since my walls are 3/4" I want to use 3/4".
And, since I don't care about the looks because it will only the right rear corner, and completely covered in a rock panel, I won't bother with pesky triangles at all. I'll just use square.
I'll find some 3/4" stock somewhere and sic my router on it to make 3/4" x 3/4" smooth -cast- rod.
khaosinc
The cyborg reefer
I have a little on both of my 300's. Both are 1/2" and well over 10 years old. I still don't worry about it.
As a side note, and often being considered a little stubbern or mad. I did this with both a 250 and a 300, and while I didn't do it on myself, I had 3 open heart surguries in the last year. Still working on the moon walk.
Do you have any small friends that like the smell of solvents. It might be able to get someone in there to do it in place. I would get a couple strong fans blowing on them, the fumes from just 16 are enough to leave you a bit loopy.
kcress
New member
khaosinc; That's what I'll be doing.. :beer:
Mine is a 56J with a 56J extension on it. It appears that MDM uses them in their industrial line.
The adapters are not for C -> J they are simply to lengthen the shaft.
I'm not sure why they used them because they also then need a collar to extend the motor face flange.
Seems to me, if I was designing them, you could just ditch both extensions by mounting a pump with the proper molded set-back directly to the motor.
The one up side is that if the seal leaks in, say, a fuming nitric acid application the extension shaft would dissolve, not the motor shaft. Mine got some serious pits on its extension. I sanded it clean and painted it bright yellow. So if you look into the pump web you wonder, "what's that yellow thing?".
Mine is a 56J with a 56J extension on it. It appears that MDM uses them in their industrial line.
The adapters are not for C -> J they are simply to lengthen the shaft.
I'm not sure why they used them because they also then need a collar to extend the motor face flange.
Seems to me, if I was designing them, you could just ditch both extensions by mounting a pump with the proper molded set-back directly to the motor.
The one up side is that if the seal leaks in, say, a fuming nitric acid application the extension shaft would dissolve, not the motor shaft. Mine got some serious pits on its extension. I sanded it clean and painted it bright yellow. So if you look into the pump web you wonder, "what's that yellow thing?".
Everyones Hero
New member
I didn't explain it well enough.
What I mean is take a flat strip of acrylic & tape it along the seam so there's a gap that can be filled with WO instead of trying to put the tank on it's side & letting it run down the seam.
Here's your corner --> L\ <-- Acrylic. Tape it across it kinda like that.
kcress
New member
Oh.. I see. Novel idea. I like it!
I'd like it a lot more if the piece was beveled to exactly mate up to the two walls. I don't see a way to do that.
I don't think I'm up for running a piece of 1/8" that's only an inch across thru a table saw with the blade over at 45 degrees. Grab and launch?
I'd like it a lot more if the piece was beveled to exactly mate up to the two walls. I don't see a way to do that.
I don't think I'm up for running a piece of 1/8" that's only an inch across thru a table saw with the blade over at 45 degrees. Grab and launch?
Everyones Hero
New member
Hey, sometimes you gotta go for the gusto.
Sandwich it between two sheets of plywood?
Sandwich it between two sheets of plywood?
noahm
Active member
Or go with a router table with a fence. A lot less scary.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
You would have to cut the filler off of a larger sheet if you use a TS.... The router or BS is the safer choice.
Luckless - bearing in mind of course, that the band saw - statistically - is the MOST likely tool in the shop to do you damage. Less scary sounding..? Sure...It lulls you into laziness.
I have several friends in cabinet shops that can attest to the bite, and with some - the "abbreviation capabilities" of the band saw. ( Notice that it is the tool of choice among meat butchers :eek1
So - OP - it may be the tool you choose to do the job - just .....focus, and watch you your fingers. A man has only so many digits to pick his nose with! Don't want to limit your choices
T
I have several friends in cabinet shops that can attest to the bite, and with some - the "abbreviation capabilities" of the band saw. ( Notice that it is the tool of choice among meat butchers :eek1
So - OP - it may be the tool you choose to do the job - just .....focus, and watch you your fingers. A man has only so many digits to pick his nose with! Don't want to limit your choices
T
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
The bandsaw is nowhere near as dangerous as a TS, jointer drill press, router, RAS or circular saw and Those devices can cause severe injury due to direct impact from kickback and/or pull your hands into the moving blade becuase of kickback. The bandsaw will not pull your hands in and does not kickback. The problem is that because it is so non-menacing people get lazy and run their fingers through the blade. Push sticks and proper guard adjustment are very important. The traveling guard should only clear the work by 1/8" to keep you fingers out!
Having worked production furniture making before, I can tell you that, even with guards and safety measures in place, the bandsaw and planer account for most of the serious injuries. I myself was hospitalized for 4 days from a planer breaking a blade and kicking a board back at an angle and into my abdomen. We had at least 10 guys who "used to run a band saw" that were missing parts of a digit.
I have been working wood for 25+ years and never been hurt with a table saw, router, RAS or jointer. I had a near miss with a laser guarded bandsaw once and count myself lucky.
I have been working wood for 25+ years and never been hurt with a table saw, router, RAS or jointer. I had a near miss with a laser guarded bandsaw once and count myself lucky.
