Join me for a strange one...
- Thread starter kcress
- Start date
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Yup... do not disagree, it is often the tools that we are least afraid (respectful) of that can do the most damage. The drill press is another tool that hurts a lot of folks because they don't realize how much damage it can do when a piece of work binds in the tool. Shattered bones (fingers, cheekbones, etc.) lacerations, and amoutations.
Power tool safety is not something to be taken lightly.
Power tool safety is not something to be taken lightly.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
It does not take much to not pay attention and run your fingers through the bandsaw.
People don't tend to get hurt edge jointing, unless the board is too small to be jointed. Facing boards on the jointer is a different story and it scares me to this day. I am actaully looking for a thickness planer so that I don't have to worry about it!
Everyones Hero
New member
I can't say much about the dangers of power tools, other than it would be cool to count to four & a half on your fingers, but I can attest to the quiet ones being trouble.
Just don't tell the girlfriend, she'd get mad as hell.
kcress
New member
Trying to make some headway here. I've been using kids to do the work in this tank. They're failing me. "I can't right now", "I don't feel like it. Can we do it later?", etc etc. Furthermore they don't have the hand-eye skills needed, nor the patience that will be required since I will need to polish out some scratches that are inside.
Long story short - I need to get into this tank. I don't fit thru 12" wide holes. I might fit thru a 14" wide hole. The tank openings at the top are really small looking to me. They're only 4 square feet total of a 12 square foot top.
Here's the dimensions.
The question is, can I cut a few inches out of one of these openings, making the opening 15" by 24" instead of 12" by 24"?
That would still leave six inches at the back while four seems to be enough at the front (stock).
Long story short - I need to get into this tank. I don't fit thru 12" wide holes. I might fit thru a 14" wide hole. The tank openings at the top are really small looking to me. They're only 4 square feet total of a 12 square foot top.
Here's the dimensions.
The question is, can I cut a few inches out of one of these openings, making the opening 15" by 24" instead of 12" by 24"?
That would still leave six inches at the back while four seems to be enough at the front (stock).
just make sure the corners are rounded.You can just use a 1/2" drill bit in the corners then cut into them. I can't see any reason that you couldn't make it 4" on both. If 4" holds the front then that is the weakes point anyway.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Rounded corners move stress away from the corner... square corners concentrate the stress right at the corner. A square corner will crack.
kcress
New member
; Thanks richierich2000, palmer373, and Bean for the responses.
Yeah I'm pretty amazed these corners only have a measly 1/4" radius. I'd expect something like 3/4 or 1".
So what do you guys think I should drill this with?
I do all my acrylic work on a CNC so I don't have any experience doing free hand acrylic mutilation..
If I want bigger radii can I use a hole saw?
Connecting the holes can I use a jig saw? What kind of blade on a jig saw? Fine tooth? Coarse? Hollow ground?
High blade speed or low?
Do I need to add water? (What a mess..)
I do have a hand router too.
Yeah I'm pretty amazed these corners only have a measly 1/4" radius. I'd expect something like 3/4 or 1".
So what do you guys think I should drill this with?
I do all my acrylic work on a CNC so I don't have any experience doing free hand acrylic mutilation..
If I want bigger radii can I use a hole saw?
Connecting the holes can I use a jig saw? What kind of blade on a jig saw? Fine tooth? Coarse? Hollow ground?
High blade speed or low?
Do I need to add water? (What a mess..)
I do have a hand router too.
khaosinc
The cyborg reefer
I've used hole saws to create a radius a couple times and worked quite well. I use water with those. For most the rest of my cutting I tend to use a jig saw as its quick and easy for me to find. I usually use metal bits and go slow, but this is more because thats what I tend to have around than anything. I don't use water with the jig saw, but if things get warm it will tend to melt the plastic rather than cut.
I wouldnt cut this with anything other than a router. With such an amazing build, I would take the time to build a jig (guide/fence) for the router that will yield a nice smooth edge. If you build a complete jig you can go completely around the opening (just shaving the front side) and increase the radius on all 4 corners, not just the new ones. I would also suggest another pass with small bevel to "ease" the resulting edge so you dont cut yourself getting in and out as well as working in the tank in the future.
eznet2u
Active member
eznet2u
Active member
kcress
New member
You velly funny boy....
Suckered me totally. :beer:
As for the bit. If I use that how do I guide the router?
oscarsdad608
New member
That is hilarious!
swearint
New member
Most routers will accept a screw-in collar that is just slightly larger in outer diameter than the bit. The bit fits through the insert. You then build a template slightly larger than the area you want to cut out. The collar follows the edge of the template. Also, don't try to cut the full depth in one pass, make several passes a little at a time.
Todd
yes... the collar is a bearing that rolls against the guide/jig. I would suggest making this guide out of MDF. IFor example, if your desired tank opening size is 24 x 48, the MDF guide would be 25 x 49 (assuming that your bit is 1/2"). Like Swearin said, do not try and cut too much material away at a time... several passes are better than one cut.
I would use MDF because it will yield a smoother roll of the bearing.
If you want to be really sure of stability. build the MDF guide like a cap with sides that hang over the edge of the tank fitting like a lid. That way it will not move at all while you are working with the router. Measure twice, cut once.
I would use MDF because it will yield a smoother roll of the bearing.
If you want to be really sure of stability. build the MDF guide like a cap with sides that hang over the edge of the tank fitting like a lid. That way it will not move at all while you are working with the router. Measure twice, cut once.
