JR Aquatics 180 Gallon Nano Reef

I used some stuff I got from a hot tub repair place. It will glue up with the fitting wet as long as there is no pressure on the glue. It is like two part epoxy, you mix it and then run it around the seal.
 
JR, Here is in appreciation to the hard work that you did on your tank so someone like me could be inspired by it, and taking the time to answer all my questions. Thanks.

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Looks like a lot of work. Good job. You may want to lower the water level in the sump though. You want it at or just below the lowest baffle. That's one good looking skimmer. Are you able to access the drain to the skimmer?
 
I get paranoid if I lower the water too much and then it gets too low and the pump runs dry. Is there any particular reason for lowering to the lowest baffle? As it is running right now I am not getting any micro bubbles in the tank. Actually I was getting a ton from the skimmer return but the filter sock solved that until it breaks in. I can access the drain, but its a pain to drain since the skimmer is so close to the ground. I had to make my setup as compact as possible and the valves inaccessible as much as possible to avoid tampering from a one year old boy.

My next question is how long did you wait to move the corals from the old tank to the new one?
 
On another note, where do you keep the water level in your skimmer body without the air on for best results? And did you adjust it to that level by adjusting the flow rate to the skimmer or by closing the the valve?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12650720#post12650720 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nickts40
On another note, where do you keep the water level in your skimmer body without the air on for best results? And did you adjust it to that level by adjusting the flow rate to the skimmer or by closing the the valve?
Click to expand...

I leave the water level right below the conection to the cup. Until the skimmer breaks in leave the wedge valve fully open.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12658197#post12658197 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by k9asia
JR when you say wedge valve What ar eyou talking about, the out put from the skimmer? Is there a valve?
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Yes, on top of the tee is were a wedge pipe is inserted. This is the valve, you turn it to open and close the water exiting the skimmer. This is a very precise and easy way of controlling water flow.
 
JR, How did you choose to run your Calcium reactor? Are you regulating the pH of the reactor with the AC and if so what do you have the pH set at?

I am still up in the air on my setup. I did not control it before and relied solely on bubble rate with my GEO, but one time that small valve they have on the output got partially clogged, made mush of the large ARM media and just averted a major disaster since the tank pH had only dropped to 7.9 after a few hours of the event.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12660818#post12660818 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nickts40
JR, How did you choose to run your Calcium reactor? Are you regulating the pH of the reactor with the AC and if so what do you have the pH set at?

I am still up in the air on my setup. I did not control it before and relied solely on bubble rate with my GEO, but one time that small valve they have on the output got partially clogged, made mush of the large ARM media and just averted a major disaster since the tank pH had only dropped to 7.9 after a few hours of the event.
Click to expand...

You could use the AC to control the PH in your reactor. I don't for the simple fact that I already had a controller when I bought the CR. I keep my PH at 6.4-6.5. The influent is a steady stream of water.

Thanks Dougie for the comment.
 
Originally, I had a 20G Rubbermaid with a MJ 1200 to top-off the water in the sump, but if the Rubbermaid was filled with more than 12G of water, the head pressure would continue to siphon water into the sump even when the pump was turned off which would cause an overflow of the sump. After living with this for years, I switched to a peristaltic pump (SP 3000) which solved the problem. I went to a 50G Rubbermaid with 40G of water. One morning I checked the sump and it was ¼ inch from overflowing and as it turns out the house had slipped off the wheel on the SP 3000 which caused the same effect as the MJ setup.

So in both cases, an overflow switch valve would have been worthless since at that point by Rubbermaid is basically ‘gravity’ feeding the sump. I could keep less water in the top-off bucket but then I would need to make water every weekend.

So how does everyone else have their top-off systems set up?
 
First of all thanks JR.

I cannot believe that I miss the obvious sometimes. I did not even think of using a check valve.
 
So is the 1/4 inch check valve an ID or OD? Currently, I am using 1/8 inch tubing for top-off but would like to kick that up to 1/4 inch tubing. I'll give them a call if your not sure.

On another matter, how does everyone clean their filter socks? I usually flip mine inside out and run through the washing machine with water only. This works for a while but then they get pretty nasty looking over time.
 
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