JR Aquatics 180 Gallon Nano Reef

Wow JR

That is inspiring as this is excactly what I have in my mind for my 180.

You have a beautifull system and congrats

RR
 
Jeremy --- I notice that you do not have a check valve for your plumbing. How do you prevent the water from back-flowing into your sump, and then possibly overflowing?
I live in South Florida. We tend to have very bad electrical storms during the summer months. Sometimes causing the electricity to cut out for a couple of hours. On my present system I have 2 check valves. Once the electricity cuts out the valves prevent the water from overflowing.
--- In your plumbing what keeps the water from overflowing if the pump quits?
---- Would Durso Pipes solve my problem so I don't have to use check valves?

Thanks ---
Chris
 
Check valves arent needed. Just do some measuring and some math and you can figure out just how to keep your sump from overflowing. Measure how deep into the tank your sump return sits. Multiply the depth of your sump return by the width and length of your tank. Divide the answer by 231. That will give you number of gallons your return will back siphon into your sump when the power cuts out.

Then all you need to do is multiple your sump width by the sump length by 1 , and then divide the number by 231. This will give you number of gallons of water that are needed to raise your sump volume 1 inch.

Do the same thing with your display. Now you have the number of gallons it takes to raise or lower your display volume by one inch.

Once you've got those numbers, you can adjust your return depth so that you wont have any more floods.

Nick
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14142151#post14142151 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by yankee26th
Jeremy --- I notice that you do not have a check valve for your plumbing. How do you prevent the water from back-flowing into your sump, and then possibly overflowing?
I live in South Florida. We tend to have very bad electrical storms during the summer months. Sometimes causing the electricity to cut out for a couple of hours. On my present system I have 2 check valves. Once the electricity cuts out the valves prevent the water from overflowing.
--- In your plumbing what keeps the water from overflowing if the pump quits?
---- Would Durso Pipes solve my problem so I don't have to use check valves?

Thanks ---
Chris
Click to expand...

^ Like Nick stated above. With careful planning of your sump and anti siphon holes on your returns, check valves are not needed. I personally don't like them and don't use them. I allow for 20+ gallons to siphon in my sump before it even gets close to overflowing.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14142898#post14142898 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by maxxII
Check valves arent needed. Just do some measuring and some math and you can figure out just how to keep your sump from overflowing. Measure how deep into the tank your sump return sits. Multiply the depth of your sump return by the width and length of your tank. Divide the answer by 231. That will give you number of gallons your return will back siphon into your sump when the power cuts out.

Then all you need to do is multiple your sump width by the sump length by 1 , and then divide the number by 231. This will give you number of gallons of water that are needed to raise your sump volume 1 inch.

Do the same thing with your display. Now you have the number of gallons it takes to raise or lower your display volume by one inch.

Once you've got those numbers, you can adjust your return depth so that you wont have any more floods.

Nick
Click to expand...
Hey Nick, thanks for the intel but I don't want to make a mistake by doing the arithmetic myself. First, what do you mean by "Multiply the depth of your sump return by the width and length of your tank" and "Then all you need to do is multiple your sump width by the sump length by 1"
Would you mind doing the arithmetic for me?
Here are my specs, that I know, based upon my understanding of your explanation ---
Sump Return Depth in Main Tank --- 3"
Tank Length --- 72"
Tank Width --- 24"
Please let me know if you need any further specs
Thanks ---
Chris
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14145931#post14145931 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JRaquatics
^ Like Nick stated above. With careful planning of your sump and anti siphon holes on your returns, check valves are not needed. I personally don't like them and don't use them. I allow for 20+ gallons to siphon in my sump before it even gets close to overflowing.
Click to expand...
Hey Jeremy --- Do you have the specs on your sump. I will be getting a 180 soon and I'm designing a 75 gallon sump for it. I see your sump volume is about the same. What are the dimensions of your sump, H x L x W and the height of your baffles. Thanks buddy I appreciate it.
Chris
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14146232#post14146232 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by yankee26th
Hey Nick, thanks for the intel but I don't want to make a mistake by doing the arithmetic myself. First, what do you mean by "Multiply the depth of your sump return by the width and length of your tank" and "Then all you need to do is multiple your sump width by the sump length by 1"
Would you mind doing the arithmetic for me?
Here are my specs, that I know, based upon my understanding of your explanation ---
Sump Return Depth in Main Tank --- 3"
Tank Length --- 72"
Tank Width --- 24"
Please let me know if you need any further specs
Thanks ---
Chris
Click to expand...

I'm a former infantry Marine and now a Police Officer......so trust me when I say this isnt difficult math...:)

Based on the numbers you gave me, (72Lx24Wx3H = 5184. 5184 divided by 231 = 22.44), you need to allow for 22.5 (rounded up) gallons in your sump to avoid a flood if the power cuts out in your house.

Now you need to multiple the length x the width x one, and divide the answer by 231 to determine how many gallons it takes to raise the water level in your sump by one inch.

Once you know that you can make adjustments as needed to either the sump, or your tank return, or both.

Hope that makes sense.

Nick
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14149772#post14149772 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by maxxII
I'm a former infantry Marine and now a Police Officer......so trust me when I say this isnt difficult math...:)

Based on the numbers you gave me, (72Lx24Wx3H = 5184. 5184 divided by 231 = 22.44), you need to allow for 22.5 (rounded up) gallons in your sump to avoid a flood if the power cuts out in your house.

Now you need to multiple the length x the width x one, and divide the answer by 231 to determine how many gallons it takes to raise the water level in your sump by one inch.

Once you know that you can make adjustments as needed to either the sump, or your tank return, or both.

Hope that makes sense.

Nick
Click to expand...
Hey Nick ---
When you say, "Measure how deep into the tank your sump return sits", are you refering to the actual depth from the surface that my return pipes are at from the surface? Or are you refering to the height of my overflow boxes?

Thanks ---
Chris
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14149772#post14149772 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by maxxII
I'm a former infantry Marine and now a Police Officer......so trust me when I say this isnt difficult math...:)

Based on the numbers you gave me, (72Lx24Wx3H = 5184. 5184 divided by 231 = 22.44), you need to allow for 22.5 (rounded up) gallons in your sump to avoid a flood if the power cuts out in your house.

Now you need to multiple the length x the width x one, and divide the answer by 231 to determine how many gallons it takes to raise the water level in your sump by one inch.

Once you know that you can make adjustments as needed to either the sump, or your tank return, or both.

Hope that makes sense.

Nick
Click to expand...
Hello again Nick ---
I came up with another thought. Is it possible to do it another way. Let say I have 6" of space from the top of my sump down to the height of my highest baffle. Lets than calculate volume based upon the Length x Width x 1 / 231 of my sump. L=44" x W=20" x 1" = 880 / 231 = 3.8 gallons to raise the water level in my sump 1 inch. Therefore it would take 22.8 gallons to overflow.

Like you said before, if my tank is L=72" x W=24" x 3" = 5184 / 231= 22.5 gallons before overflow. So based upon this it would be best to, allow more room for water in my sump by raising the height of my return piping or lowering the height of my baffles.
Does that make sense?

Thanks ---
Chris
 
When you say, "Measure how deep into the tank your sump return sits", are you refering to the actual depth from the surface that my return pipes are at from the surface?
Click to expand...

Yes, this is correct.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14157798#post14157798 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by yankee26th
Hello again Nick ---
I came up with another thought. Is it possible to do it another way. Let say I have 6" of space from the top of my sump down to the height of my highest baffle. Lets than calculate volume based upon the Length x Width x 1 / 231 of my sump. L=44" x W=20" x 1" = 880 / 231 = 3.8 gallons to raise the water level in my sump 1 inch. Therefore it would take 22.8 gallons to overflow.

Like you said before, if my tank is L=72" x W=24" x 3" = 5184 / 231= 22.5 gallons before overflow. So based upon this it would be best to, allow more room for water in my sump by raising the height of my return piping or lowering the height of my baffles.
Does that make sense?

No Nick I'm wrong, it would be from the top of the lowest baffles not the highest. Is that right?

Thanks ---
Chris
Click to expand...

IME, its easier to raise the return plumbing than it is to lower the sump baffles, unless you have baffles secured in some way I dont know about...., and it would be from the lowest baffles. The lowest baffles should be the highest point of water in your sump, under normal circumstances...

Based on the numbers you gave, technically, you have enough room in your sump to allow for a power outage and back siphon without a flood, but only by 0.3 gallons.....if the water level of your sump is even with your highest baffle.

Make sense?

Sorry for the hijack JRA...

Nick
 
Long over due update. I removed some corals to make room for others to grow. I also swapped out my Reeflo 200 Pro with a Hurricone CAT 2 external.

Updated FTS
DSCN3605.jpg


Top down
DSCN3625.jpg


My new skimmer
DSCN3594.jpg


DSCN3620.jpg
 
So far I like the skimmer. But it is still going through testing before it hits the market as we already have revised parts for this prototype. I find the performance so far exceeding the Reeflo 200 pro and the skimmer still hasn't broken in yet.
 
WOW :eek1: That is some insane growth Jeremy!!! This definitely reminds me of an Acropora Nut tank. LOL! 12-16inches a year on some coral, huh? Pretty Sweet... Keep up the good work JR.:thumbsup: I got to get over there to see this beast...
 
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