Beananimal, I understand how it works. I am trying to figure out if they are working on a controllable fixture or not. I could probably figure out how to make the current fixture controllable through a third party controller is apex, but I don't want to. I don't want to compromise the warranty. Before this light even came out there was rumors of kessil building a controllable light that was controlled through a third party controller, the dimming feature. I understand a third party controller can turn this light on and off, I was curious if anybody had heard if this was truly happening. I understand people are confusing what is manually controllable and third party controllable. My intent of my comment was not to confuse the manual dimming with being able to allow a third party controller to dim the kessil A350 light. At the moment I don't want to spend money on a light to modify it to fit my needs. I will wait or just decide on another light. But I have time to wait since my project is still in the works.
Kessil A350
- Thread starter Alex T.
- Start date
Hey Sharkdog,
I do in fact have the 350w on the RSM250. Right now in the tank I have some zoas, polyps, and a couple of BTA. The zoa's and polyps have started to spread pretty well. More so then the one in my stock biocube. So I am fairly impressed. The Anemone's seem to love the light as well.
dailydriven911
Member
The regular A350. It packs a pretty good punch considering how small it is. I would say it's close to a 250w m/h bulb on an e-ballast. It covers about a 24" spread but it's perfect on my 20" cube.
longranger
New member
Finally put up my 2 A350 regulars on my 110 yesterday. Incredible lights. I am using more white than blue to please me eyes like so many others have described on this thread. Very very pleased. May put up a 150 W sky blue to get more even coverage and have a little better pop of reds and yellows in the tank.
I used the goosenecks. I had read that the screws were too short for the mount and sure enough they are. Could not find a suitable replacement screw so I improvised a temporary solution and will contact Kessil monday.
One curiosity question for the more technical individuals on this board. Has anyone looked at power consumption as the potentiometers are adjusted. Not really an issue with how efficient these units are but I may never run these at full:inlove:
I used the goosenecks. I had read that the screws were too short for the mount and sure enough they are. Could not find a suitable replacement screw so I improvised a temporary solution and will contact Kessil monday.
One curiosity question for the more technical individuals on this board. Has anyone looked at power consumption as the potentiometers are adjusted. Not really an issue with how efficient these units are but I may never run these at full:inlove:
10% off everthing including Kessil lighting
10% off everthing including Kessil lighting
http://www.marineandreef.com/
The coupon code is Augustus10
Kessil A350 = $359.99
10% off everthing including Kessil lighting
http://www.marineandreef.com/
The coupon code is Augustus10
Kessil A350 = $359.99
Kessil white channel100%
Is the picture adjusted or auto adjusted by your camera?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Phots are 100% useless folks... there are just too many variables to account for. Reach up and push the "color temperature" button on your monitor and you can change the photo on your own monitor to the point that you are not sure what is "right".
Want to see what they look like? The only way is in person.
Want to see what they look like? The only way is in person.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
No, really it can't.
Sure we can tell "blue" from "pink" and "yellow" from "purple". We can tell that one photo is "bluer" than onother or "yellower" than another, but we can't discern the important differences on tonality, hue, saturation (color rendering and correctness) which is eactly what people are looking for.
While you may think the photo "looks real", your brain is telling you a lie to help correct what the eyes see. Again, lets ignore the numerous HUGE variables and just play with one minor variable. Reach up and press the color temperature button a few timnes on your monitor. You likely didn't even no it was there (maybe in a menu). Why the "new" color may look foreign, it only does so because you have not been looking at it for hours, days, weeks or months.
Sorry, but photos are 100% useless for the purposes of helping one to convery the "color" of their tank under x, y or z lights.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
All of those photos look somewhat similar side-by-side, but the are really very different and look very different. Which is correct?
If you load the first image into your browser:
http://www.reeflogix.com/images/rc/a350/a3501.jpg
and then increment the last number from by one digit (all the way to a3508.jpg) then you can use the forward and back button in your browser to see them in what amounts to a slideshow. Notice the vast difference from frame to frame? What is the correct color?
If you load the first image into your browser:
http://www.reeflogix.com/images/rc/a350/a3501.jpg
and then increment the last number from by one digit (all the way to a3508.jpg) then you can use the forward and back button in your browser to see them in what amounts to a slideshow. Notice the vast difference from frame to frame? What is the correct color?
Just set up my new A350 over my 28 gallon nano cube. I was previously using an A150. So far I really like the light but I'm struggling to fight the urge to crank it up to 100%.
Maybe I'm oversimplifying it but I figure that at about 33% it should be similar output to an A150 right? To me it looks more dim than my a150 sky blue at that output but it might just be me. I've got the blue set at about 40% and the white set at 50% for starters and then I'll slowly crank them up. I'm hoping my corals do well as I go because I'd like to get to 100% white and 80% or so blue to get it dialed in to my liking.
For those of you with more experience than me, how high do you guys think is safe to start the intensity at coming from the A150 sky blue without frying my corals? I've got a couple pieces of acro a little over half way up the tank, some euphylia a little lower than half way and acans, ricordea and zoas on the bottom.
Maybe I'm oversimplifying it but I figure that at about 33% it should be similar output to an A150 right? To me it looks more dim than my a150 sky blue at that output but it might just be me. I've got the blue set at about 40% and the white set at 50% for starters and then I'll slowly crank them up. I'm hoping my corals do well as I go because I'd like to get to 100% white and 80% or so blue to get it dialed in to my liking.
For those of you with more experience than me, how high do you guys think is safe to start the intensity at coming from the A150 sky blue without frying my corals? I've got a couple pieces of acro a little over half way up the tank, some euphylia a little lower than half way and acans, ricordea and zoas on the bottom.
Marco Madeira
New member
Hi Vannpytt...
Those pictures were taken by a Samsung Galaxy mobile. I didn't change anything on the pictures, they are not adjusted. I tried with a Canon Reflex and a Panasonic and the pics were bad. I don't understand how to take photos with leds, they never come out good using Reflex cameras!
The best ones were this photos from the Galaxy mobile, and for me, they are the ones that best represent the real colors of the kessilA350 compared with the other photos that I took.
BeanAnimal...
you are right... photos can be 100% useless, but those photos for me, are very very close to what I see from my tank.
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BeanAnimal
Premium Member
On your monitor, with your "brain" doing the adjustments
Photos of LEDs don't work well because the leds produce a very narrow spectrum. The cones in our eyes fill in the gaps and create a smooth spectral response tha tis sent to our brains. We are tricked into seeing color that is not really there. The camera is not tricked (at least in the same way).
Look don't get me wrong, we all love seeing (and taking) photos. They just can't be used for the purpose that most folks want in these threads. The reason for harping on this is because so many folks assume the opposite
Sharkdog22
New member
Bean I will disagree with you on them being 100% useless, you are right on all the color and them showing different on different monitors. But Im not worried about that because "you" might like your white at 70% bright and blue at 100% bright, I like my tank with less blue and more white. So for the colors it does not matter much on what the pictures are really showing. Its more of an in general kinda of thing. Now what Im asking about and what the pictures are showing me is coverage of the light on a tank, and for me the pictures are showing me exactly what I need to see with out have the physical light on my tank. Now like I said I agree with you on being in person but even the lights over a tank in your LFS will look different than the light over your own fish tank. So to me the pictures are not 100% useless.
Two A350W's would work great on that tank IMO. The W stands for wide angle and with how shallow your tank is you don't need the narrower lens of the standard A350. You didn't state your planned coral list but you'll have enough light for a nice mixed reef tank and could probalbly even go mostly SPS if the lights are cranked up all the way. I'd also email Kessil directly and wait for a couple more opinions on here other than mine.
So I switched to one of these on my 28 gallon nano cube after not being satisfied with an a150 sky blue.
I'm definitely happy with the A350. When I added it (about a month ago) I only had 2 SPS frags and they were slowly losing color with the A150. After adding the A350 they are doing great and everything in my tank has colored up nicely. I started the A350 at about 50% and slowly moved up to 100% in both white and blue and everything looks great. One of these lights is a really nice options for small/medium sized cubes.
I'm going to upgrade to a Solana 34 pretty soon and I'm sure that the one A350 will be fine for it. I've been really happy with this light.
I'm definitely happy with the A350. When I added it (about a month ago) I only had 2 SPS frags and they were slowly losing color with the A150. After adding the A350 they are doing great and everything in my tank has colored up nicely. I started the A350 at about 50% and slowly moved up to 100% in both white and blue and everything looks great. One of these lights is a really nice options for small/medium sized cubes.
I'm going to upgrade to a Solana 34 pretty soon and I'm sure that the one A350 will be fine for it. I've been really happy with this light.
