Kessil Club

[Wally.B]

Can someone pass on Kessil 360WE Settings for Zoa's (Mine are sensitive on intro):

I know I have to acclimatize Zoa's slowly, however am having some challenges.
They do well in Sump under low lighting (so water is fine), but when I put under Kessil they close up. (Unless I shade them).

All other Corals are fine, but also took time to acclimatize.

I can't seem to find a good spot or Kessil setting, even with semi-patient acclimatization. (My gut feeling is the UV LEDS are intense.).


Can someone tell me the [Intensity] [Spectrum] & [PhotoPeriod] on their 360WE where Zoa's are doing good?

- My 360WE is 9" above tank water.
- Tank water depth is 22".
- Trying to place the Zoa's about 15" below water Surface or 24" below Kessil.

I am controlling by a Apex, so can ramp up and down, and change spectrum. over time.

THIS PHOTO Might Help (Zoa's on Day 1, then closed up, and wouldn't open.)

- I would like to (Glue down the frags, since snails keep knocking them over) (Lower Lighting Settting and acclimatize up)
- Rather then (Start Zoa's low, or in shade) (and then move them up).
- So need a TARGET MAX setting for Kessil (for Zoa's).

 

[Wally.B]

I have the A360WE over a 27x20x24 tank and looking into the right schedule. Have been trying to read all the threads and understand much more the specs of this fixture, but one doubt is still remaining.
I found following schedule "official suggestion from Kessil" on one of the other forums:

Time Color Intensity
8:00 0% 15%
10:00 20% 50%
12:00 50% 100%
14:00 75% 100%
16:00 40% 50%
18:00 0% 0%

Kessil says, "It is very difficult to make a recommendation for a specific tank, however, the color setting is primarily for aesthetics and minimally effects the spectrum. The intensity is essential for coral health, growth, and appearance. Depending on your current lighting schedule, we recommend starting at 10% intensity in the morning and working up to 100% intensity in the middle of the day for 1 hour, and then ramping back down. If your coral can take it, you can extend this peak period at 100% bit by bit."

Here it stays that color is not that important for coral growth and healt. The focus should be on intensity.
Intensity will give you more PAR I understand and gets the light more deeper in the tank so that makes sense.

Would this mean that the color setting of the Kessils do not change the spectrum that much?
I personally like the more blue appearance as it seems more natural.

Any experience concerning color settings and reaction on corals?
What does color setting 30 compare to 70 for example?

If you start using Kessil's and ramp up to 100% intensity the first day you can kiss all your coral goodbye.

So after posting my question about Zoa's kessil settings, I did some digging in past threads.


Thanks for these two posts above.

It changes my whole thinking about how to set my Kessil lighting programming. And helps me with Acclimatization my Corals.


Up till now, I thought entering Full Spectrum with the Kessil was a totally different territory, compared to Blue Spectrum.

Which it true coming from a previous MH & T5 Lighting Setup:
- MH White [Full Spectrum 10k-14k] had the High PARS (Main Lighting)
- T5 Blue [Actinic or Blue Plus Bulbs] were lower PARS (Accent Lighting)

However in the Kessil literature it does say with UV LED's and the way they blend their light make the Kessil Effective at Both Ends of the Spectrum settings.

So this help explain my mistakes in acclimatization of the lights and corals. (I need to focus on Intensity, and not worry so much about Spectrum.)

Many thanks.

I'm still interested in anyone's INTENSITY settings with Zoa's and at what under water Depth.

I don't think Zoa's, Acans, Ricordias, or Chalice's can handle the Kessil at 100%, Regardless of Photoperiod.

I don't even think my LPS Frospawns, Hammers, and Torches can handle 100% Long, (and Frogspawns were born under 150W MH lights)

(I could be wrong, with someone who has done a real slow acclimatization)

Let me know. (I'm still trying figure out this To Kessil Conversion).

My current schedule (for Kessil with T5's) is as below.
- Still working my way up after few months.
- Zoa's couldn't handle this, fully exposed.

 

[Wally.B]

MY PAR READINGS:


I'll also share this bit of information.

A few weeks ago I found a place that rents a Apogee MQ200 Quantum PAR meter and I measured the lighting on my tank (To help me figure out my lighting setup).

I Ran Many Tests (at various setting and many locations) but here are a FEW KEY measurements (at one location):

Single Kessil 360WE is directly above Sensor.

I know that Kessils are not accurately measured on PAR Meters, since UV LED's are not picked up properly. Just wanted to figure out a pulse the combo lighting.

Wish I ran that last test to compare Spectrum, but never thought I needed it, till now.

 

[C Dog]

I just bought a 24" L x 24" W x 12" T acrylic tank. I like the Kessil and picked up a used 350n for a good price. What do you guys think about this set up for SPS?

 

[sixpackgarage]

N is going to be harsh on such a shallow tank. Go easy on the intensity

 

[C Dog]

I was plan on hanging it higher. Any where from 12-24"

 

[sushimi]

What intensity?

The intensity varies throughout the days I'm home I try to do sunrise and sunset buy hand. It only has a standard wall timer set for 10 hrs pr day. I probably max out around 80% most days. I have turned it to 100% a few times for only a hour or two. The color nob I turn to either 9 o'clock position or 12 o'clock depending on the time of day.
On my 46 gallon bowfront I use the same 360w-e light with the spectral controller by kessil and it goes up to 100% intensity and 60% color when it peaks for about 3 hrs. I have plating monti on the sand bed growing like crazy. The light is 12" above water using the kessil goosenecks and 90 adapter. So like 33" to the sand bed.

 

[uwdanno]

Kessel 360WE over my sps dominated Fusion 20 gal.

 

[C Dog]

Looks good

 

[Wally.B]

HELP!! Anyone have Acans under a Kessil? (What is your Intensity Level Setting (@photoperiod), and at what Depth are they? )

So I dialed up my Kessil from 40% (@9 hours), to 50% (@4 hours), and briefly 60%(@30 mins) and almost lost 2 Acans (Within a few days).

Could be something else (critters), but I think I burned them. (But what's weird is another Acan at Same depth (little higher) is doing fine)
There is a picture of my Tank a few posts above this one (#1063) .

Does anyone have Acans doing well under a Kessil?

Acan's are my favourite Corals, so any info, is greatly appreciated.

 

[Myriam]

I have a big acan under the kessil A360W. It's 18" deep in water, with a little shade made by a birdsnest above. Light is 8" above water. It's at max intensity.

 

[Saltwaterw]

Hello All.. First Post

Looking to start up a fresh converted to salt 50gal Hex tank (21x21x30") and I realize the depth is going to be an issue with lighting if I ever want any corals. I'm looking at one narrow beam A360NE since the tank is only 21" wide. My thinking is that would ensure I get enough light down to the bottom of the tank and not waste any with the wider A360WE light.

Thoughts on the narrow beam model lighting the entire tank width and looking good at 6" or so above the water or should I stick with the WE and get some overage light?

Also, with these tank dimensions, would a smaller A160 be enough for moderate light corals at 20+" deep or am I stuck getting the larger light to ensure I have enough to go deep?

 

[slief]

Hello All.. First Post

Looking to start up a fresh converted to salt 50gal Hex tank (21x21x30") and I realize the depth is going to be an issue with lighting if I ever want any corals. I'm looking at one narrow beam A360NE since the tank is only 21" wide. My thinking is that would ensure I get enough light down to the bottom of the tank and not waste any with the wider A360WE light.

Thoughts on the narrow beam model lighting the entire tank width and looking good at 6" or so above the water or should I stick with the WE and get some overage light?

Also, with these tank dimensions, would a smaller A160 be enough for moderate light corals at 20+" deep or am I stuck getting the larger light to ensure I have enough to go deep?

I think you would need two of the 360NE's as they won't have nearly enough spread for a 21" wide tank if the light is 6" off the water. Not unless you don't mind seeing the cone shaped light beaming through the water. You would need at least 2 160's for that matter and the 160's won't do any justice in a tank that deep and won't provide good lighting lower down.. You could probably get away with one 360WE and just accept that fact that you will be placing low light demanding corals on the bottom which shouldn't be that much of an issue.

 

[Saltwaterw]

You could probably get away with one 360WE and just accept that fact that you will be placing low light demanding corals on the bottom which shouldn't be that much of an issue.

I am planning on building up a decent rock base to get some height off of the bottom to place the higher light loving items. But also some lower level rock as well..

Yes, my one concern with the N was having a cone of narrow light into the tank if I set the light lower as planned vs the W giving me better coverage. I was needing real world light coverage vs penetration on the models at that depth and getting the one W sounds like my best bet for that.

Thanks for the input.

 

[janci]

Wally B,

I have my Kessil on 9" from the water level and zoas are placed between 16" and 20" deep.
Light schedule is as below.
Zoas are doing well. New polyps are coming after 3 weeks of this lighting schedule and some zoas even extend to reach more to the light.
Red is intensity
blue is color.

 

[tom obrecht]

So I just set up a 60 gallon cube and installed a 360we. Love the look and the way it covers my tank. I also run a standard 120 tank that is all sps and run with 3-250 watt halides with radium bulbs and vho actinics. I'm curious what people here think about replacing my halides with Kessils? Most hardcore sps nuts feel leds aren't quite there yet and with the success I've had so far with halides I hesitate to switch. However I love the shimmer, the adjustability, the size, the reduced heat ect, ect, ect. I want to stress this the most tho...I want the best possible light for the corals! I know there are those using leds on sps but is it really the best light out there at this time?

 

[Wally.B]

Wally B,

I have my Kessil on 9" from the water level and zoas are placed between 16" and 20" deep.
Light schedule is as below.
Zoas are doing well. New polyps are coming after 3 weeks of this lighting schedule and some zoas even extend to reach more to the light.
Red is intensity
blue is color.

WOW. I went from 40% to 60% (1hour) and had to back off. (Acan's are recovering)

Thanks for this info (really helps me), and least I know I can go even higher, but got to take it really slowly, or shade the Acan, and move out slowly.

 

[janci]

WOW. I went from 40% to 60% (1hour) and had to back off. (Acan's are recovering)

Thanks for this info (really helps me), and least I know I can go even higher, but got to take it really slowly, or shade the Acan, and move out slowly.

Yeap, take it slowly. These fixtures are stronger than they seem.
I ramped intensity up from 30 till 60% over a 2 weeks period and used the Kessil programmer for this.

Good luck

 

[jtgrimes]

This is my current lighting schedule over my 20 long. The kessil is about 12 inches over my water. Seeing what others schedules look like.

 

[jh2pizza]

Im setting up a 240G 72 x 30 x 25. I had 3 Kessils over my 180 without issue. Now, I am going 6" in depth so Im thinking of adding 4 x 36" T5. Two in the front and two in the rear.

Suggestions on what t5s to run? I will be using a Icecap 660 ballast.