Korallin Calcium Reactor

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it takes about 10 min to change 100% of the media in my Korallin 4002 by doing this
Click to expand...

kc, you're amazing if it takes you only 10 minutes.

kc, what you call the unions, are those the pieces of tubing that go on the inflow and outflow of the pump. If so, I have a real hard time getting those on and off (at least ten minutes there). My tube is opaque, not the green Eheim tubing which I've seen in the aquarium store. I'm thinking that whoever put my reactor together might have used the wrong tubing. Any idea what the right metric size for that tubing is, and where it can be bought?

Also, whenever I change the media, something inevitably leaks when I put it back together. Now it's a slow drip from somewhere inside the pump. Maybe I have to change the O-rings? Any ideas where replacement rings can be purchased?

Thanks.
 
when i refer to unions the new style (end in a 2) reactors have true unions that screw apart on top of the reactor, you just unscrew them and sit the pump aside, you do not have to take the tubing off the pump.

i dont know what metric size the tubing is any time i've replaced it i use 1/2" ID and it works, YMMV.

for the o-rings check with Premium Aquatics or Marine Depot.

kc
 
Then I guess I have the "old style" even though I only bought it in 2/03. Do you know when it change?
 
the old Korallin's you removed the bottom so this wasn't an issue but keeping media out of the recirculation pumps intake was
Click to expand...

What's the "bottom" referred to here? and what's different about the new style?
 
old style (designated with a 1 at the end..1501, 3001, 4001, 10001.) the bottom of the reactor comes off via screws and you flip the reactor upside down to fill it with media, then put the bottom back on and flip it right side up and shake all the media down before use.

new style (designated with a 2 at the end..1502, 3002, 4002, 10002.) the reactor has a one piece bottom that is sealed the top removes on them and the plumbing is all connected to two unions directly on top of the upper plate, the old style had 3/8" gray PVC glued directly to the top of the reactor so you have to remove clamps to remove the pump. the inner tube leading to the bottom of the reactor is glued into the old style, the new style has a short vinyl tube connecting the plumbing together as you assemble the top, it's completely removable along with the bottom plate/sponge.

i don't recall the date they changed over and even after the change allot of retailers who had the old style in stock continued to sale them and i'm sure there are still a few out there new in the box.

hth
kc
 
dragon-slayer just a bit of extra info,in Europe our 1502's are still designated 1501's.We have the new style top and sealed bottom etc.Just thought i would add this incase you get asked advice by a Euro reefer.
Regards Tony;)
 
thanks Tony, i get a ton of questions from folks with 01's and they swear they are 02's i guess there was a production change before the number change in places and a number change before production change in others :) reefers from Australia have the new style but all are still called 01's as well.

kc
 
I have these newer features:

the reactor has a one piece bottom that is sealed the top removes on them
Click to expand...

the new style has a short vinyl tube connecting the plumbing together as you assemble the top, it's completely removable along with the bottom plate/sponge
Click to expand...

But not this:

the plumbing is all connected to two unions directly on top of the upper plate
Click to expand...

My Eheim pump is connected to the plumbing on the top with some vinyl tubing which is clamped on.
 
Never mind. I found the unions. That is easier.

BTW, the tube that hooks the pump inlet (that's the bigger one, right?) to the PVC plumbing is 16/22 mm. It's green and made by Eheim. It works so much better than the clear vinyl that my reactor came with.

I don't yet know the size of the tube that hooks onto the outlet (the little one?).
 
After I replaced my media in my calcium reactor, the Eheim 1250 began leaking (I'm not sure from where). Someone suggested I lubricate the O-ring with vaseline and reset. Is vaseline ok?
 
You can use vaseline just insure it is pure jelly and no other stuff.
For a better job look at your hardware store for Silicone Grease.
 
Bubbles building up inside reactor.

Bubbles building up inside reactor.

Just have to say something here about the bubbles building up in the reaction chamber. For those who don't think they need to use filter bags as in a typicle berlin set up, those bags also go a long way towards filtering out the bubbles that result from the dropping of water down the over flows and can easily cause too many bubbles to enter the chamber causing then to build up inside it.Which inturn makes people think that it's actually Co2 building up which in a pressurized chamber should remain desolved in solution. Using a filter bag gets rid of the vast majority of those bubbles and will make life much easier. Change bags weekly to prevent further break down of material inside bags and use clorine in washer to get them clean. I double wash them with no bleach the second time to make sure all bleach is washed out of bags.
 
I just got a Korallin 1502 Reactor set-up. I've been reading this thread in anticipation of my trade working out for the reactor and it has. :)

The reactor has been sitting for atleast 6 months not being used with media and water still in it, boy what a stinky mess. Anyways, I cleaned it all out and scrubbed it all down and cleaned the pump. All of the lines are looking pretty ugly so i'd like to change them out, but i'm not sure what kind/size tubing to get or where to get it. Any thoughts?

Also, where to get the little orange handle valves that are on the 2 effluent outputs?

It came with some Koralinth fine media that is still in the container. I plan on using this media for the first time and see how it goes. Can media go bad if the container has been opened? The container has the lid on but i'm not sure when it was originally opened. (guessing at least 1 year ago, probably longer)

As far as feeding the reactor, i'm thinking about using a aqua lifter pump. Good idea? I've read that they'll help in maintaining a constant drip rate.

I will be getting a pH controller as well, but i'm unsure as to run the controller in the effluent or in the tank itself? Of course i'd like it to shut down co2 if readings drop, but would like to know which way is better to run it.

Does the co2 bottle need to be standing up or can it lay down?

I see mention of bad-good grade of co2, but see no mention of where to get the good grade. Where might I find it? I have a paintball place 2 minutes from me, would that be adequate?

I won't be putting it into action until I get the controller, which won't be until after the 1st of the year, but would like to get everything ready to go before hand.

Dragon Slayer, thanks for all your great information in this thread (and elsewhere). It's hopefully going to make my set-up and dialing in of the reactor much easier. But i'm sure i'll still have many questions along the way. :)
 
Ereefic said:
All of the lines are looking pretty ugly so i'd like to change them out, but i'm not sure what kind/size tubing to get or where to get it. Any thoughts?

Get a sample to your LFS or your local Home Depot and get something similar

Also, where to get the little orange handle valves that are on the 2 effluent outputs?

You can replace them with the little valves used for drip irrigation although I would prefer to use precision needle valves so try these:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...SPlastic&category_name=15615&product_id=15616

It came with some Koralinth fine media that is still in the container. I plan on using this media for the first time and see how it goes. Can media go bad if the container has been opened? The container has the lid on but i'm not sure when it was originally opened. (guessing at least 1 year ago, probably longer)

Unless the media has been left with tank water that gets putrid and contaminates it. It will be OK to use although in my expericence ARM media disolves a lot easier.

As far as feeding the reactor, i'm thinking about using a aqua lifter pump. Good idea? I've read that they'll help in maintaining a constant drip rate.

Given the capacity I would prefer to use a maxijet 1200

I will be getting a pH controller as well, but i'm unsure as to run the controller in the effluent or in the tank itself? Of course i'd like it to shut down co2 if readings drop, but would like to know which way is better to run it.

Definitively use it at the effluent outlet to control the PH and the amount of CO2 added. It will be really easy to set the reactor this way. Try to set the bubble rate for the effluent PH to stay stable at a level just slightly lower than the lower setting of the controller. If the controller or solenoid valve fails there will be no excess CO2 into the tank.

Does the co2 bottle need to be standing up or can it lay down?

The CO2 bottle MUST be standing up. The CO2 inside is liquified and the CO2 is withrawn from the gas space above the liquid, if you lay it on it's side you will withraw liquid CO2 which will pass the regulator and may freeze it, in addition the liquid will expand pass the regulator making impossible to regulate the pressure and bubble rate.

I see mention of bad-good grade of co2, but see no mention of where to get the good grade. Where might I find it? I have a paintball place 2 minutes from me, would that be adequate?

The worst grade will be the one used for paint balls as it most probably contain lubricant. Go to a welding store and ask for food grade or beberage grade CO2. You can also get it at a bottlers plant or a place were they sell Beer in Kegs.
If you really want to go top here you can ask for Medical USP grade

Dragon Slayer, thanks for all your great information in this thread (and elsewhere). It's hopefully going to make my set-up and dialing in of the reactor much easier. But i'm sure i'll still have many questions along the way. :)

When it is time to set it up you may want to try this support calculator and help page.

http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/reactor.html

Enjoy!
Click to expand...
 
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