Korallin Calcium Reactor

[stlouisguy]

I dont give a flyin flip whose thread it is, Im just thankful its here

 

[thrlride]

I picked up two needle wheel valves to have finer control over my effluent output. For some reason the drip rate still doesn't stay constant. How often do you guys have to tinker with it?

 

[dragon_slayer]

i personally don't have a drip rate, i have a 1/4" stream of effluent coming out of it, it stays constant and has for years. the higher your flow the less likely you'll have problems with control.

kc

 

[thrlride]

That means I need a lot more SPS!

 

[thrlride]

The one I'm having the most trouble with is the output coming out the center of the top. The one that is supposed to have a slow drip rate. I get it at about 30 per minute and it always slows to a stop after a few days.

Do you run a korallin? If so, how to you handle the middle one?

 

[dragon_slayer]

Do you run a korallin? If so, how to you handle the middle one?

why Heck yeah i use one 4002's to be more specific and i take all my effluent from the center outlet of the reactor rather then on the pump plumbing. and if you don't want to add allot of SPS just get a few large clams, they'll help crank up your effluent rate.

kc

 

[thrlride]

So you leave the other output shut off? Any side effects from doing that?

 

[dragon_slayer]

Originally posted by thrlride
So you leave the other output shut off?

Yes

Any side effects from doing that?

a constant flow rate and no build up of CO2 from pushing my reactors in overdrive.

kc

 

[thrlride]

hmmm, I might try that then.

What was the purpose of the second output if we can just close it off?

 

[dragon_slayer]

it's a safety feature so if you have a CO2 problem and inject to much it will form the pocket at the top of the reactor and this will shut the recirculation pump down stopping effluent from then being transfered to the tank where it could depress pH.

kc

 

[thrlride]

I'll give this a shot, thanks KC!

 

[kypdurran]

dragon_slayer your setup instructions for this reactor were rock solid.

If it weren't for my dumbassery of not filling up the bubble counter thingie attached to my regulator I would have had it set up in less than an hour.

ARM CR Media
Effluent pH - 6.6
Effluent Alkalinity - 39.2 dKh

Many thanks!

 

[dragon_slayer]

Your Welcome

:thumbsup:
kc

 

[Lucky Dragon]

Should I wait..

Should I wait..

I just setup my 110gal tank with live rock, sand, refugium (w/LS), skimmer and Korallin C1501 Ca reactor about a week ago. I've been running the reactor since day1 and noticed that my dKH is climbing rather quickly (currently ~19) while my calcium is only at 350 and slowly increasing. The dKH of effluent is almost 70. What is the maxmum safe dKH level for a tank? Since I don't have any corals yet, should I turn my reactor off until my tank cycles?

 

[jdieck]

Re: Should I wait..

Re: Should I wait..

I just setup my 110gal tank with live rock, sand, refugium (w/LS), skimmer and Korallin C1501 Ca reactor about a week ago. I've been running the reactor since day1 and noticed that my dKH is climbing rather quickly (currently ~19) while my calcium is only at 350 and slowly increasing. The dKH of effluent is almost 70. What is the maxmum safe dKH level for a tank? Since I don't have any corals yet, should I turn my reactor off until my tank cycles?

The recomended level is 8 to 12 dKh with 10dkh as a good target.
Stop the reactor until the Alkalinity has drop to a normal level. Then adjust the reactor's addition to keep Alkalinity (dKh) constant. Adjust Calcium up using Calcium Chloride (Kent's Turbocalcium) if necessary. Although not strictly necessary at this point in the cycle you may want to adjust the Calcium so your coralline algae starts to grow.
You can use the chemistry calculator to determine the amount of supplement to add:
http://jdieck1.home.comcast.net/chem_calc3.html

 

[ShallowWaters]

1502 Modification Questions

1502 Modification Questions

Thanks for keeping this great thread going!

My aqualifter pump has let me down for the last time and I want to improve my feed pump for better effluent control. (Problem is an intermittant loss of pressure resulting in a C02 build-up even though I use a pre-filter it can run for weeks and then just lose it's output.)

The two most recommended options are a "T" of the return line and the other is a MaxiJet1200. With regard to the latter, what do people use to connect the output a MJ to 1/4" feed line? I'm not sure I want to hack into my return line.

And my stock 1502 Eheim pump seems to be wearing out after 18 mos. It's axel magnet is cracking on the surface and causing wear - probably from running dry due to the above mentioned C02 build-up! If I replace it, should I, can I, upgrade it to the next largeer Eheim for a better result? If I do this, what model can I get that will still connect to the standard fittings? What model number do you recommend?

Last question, does anybody else's standard red ball valves that come with the 1502 leak when partially open? Mine drip water and I had to replace them. Is it just me?

Thanks!

 

[Kenfuzed]

Re: 1502 Modification Questions

Re: 1502 Modification Questions

The two most recommended options are a "T" of the return line and the other is a MaxiJet1200. With regard to the latter, what do people use to connect the output a MJ to 1/4" feed line? I'm not sure I want to hack into my return line.

I tapped into my return pump line with a piece of tubing and a valve to cut back on pressure. I prefer to T off of another source rather than add more pumps. Simply drilled a small hole into the PVC pipe and pressed a barb fitting in. Make sure you do this close to or below the water line of your sump. Otherwise if the barb leaks you don't draw any air into the return.

And my stock 1502 Eheim pump seems to be wearing out after 18 mos. It's axel magnet is cracking on the surface and causing wear - probably from running dry due to the above mentioned C02 build-up! If I replace it, should I, can I, upgrade it to the next largeer Eheim for a better result? If I do this, what model can I get that will still connect to the standard fittings? What model number do you recommend?

Generally I have found that these pumps will outlast most others. They also run cooler and more energy efficient. I would stick with the Eheim or use a similar size Mag pump.

Last question, does anybody else's standard red ball valves that come with the 1502 leak when partially open? Mine drip water and I had to replace them. Is it just me?

Not just you. I actually bought new ones that leaked immediately. I added extra lengths of tubing so the valves could hang over the sump. Now any leakage drips back into the sump.

 

[jdieck]

I used to use the return line but the pressure was too high forcing me to release some of the flow back to the sump and to use a needle valve to restric the pressure which created another source of variability. Now I am using a MJ 1200 and have good stability.
The way I connected it I use a thread tap to cut threads into the PH outlet insert (The tube where you mount the directional fan piece) and then threaded a 1/4" John Guest quick connector.
Using the MJ you may not need the larger Eheim.
I have not had experience with the valves that come with the reactor. Being ball valves I would have replaced them with needle valves anyhow.

ENjoy!

 

[mtkoskin]

let the line drip into your sump, any bubble of CO2 that builds up and exits this line will mix with the air in the sump not the water.

dragon_slayer, this post is too long for me to read now, so I apologize if this issue has already been discussed. Non-dissolved CO2 coming out of the reactor is heavier than air. Therefore, I don't think it will just mix with air, but more likely a proportion of it will begin to float and will be dissolved. I don't know how significant this is and surely it depends on ventilation of the area. Just something to consider...

 

[KH971]

I have a question. How often do you replace your media in your reactor?