La-Co Plasto-Joint Stick vs. Rectorseal T+2?

[Kengar]

It seems as if the more I read the more confused I get.

I have been using Rectorseal T+2 for threaded pipe connections as I set up my build, in view of recommendations I've seen. I did have some leaking, though not sure whether it was because the bulkhead nut wasn't tight enough, union O-ring needed to be lubed, or there wasn't enough Rectorseal (though I doubt it was that, given the complete coverage I provided prior to assembly).

Now, I have seen reference to La-Co Plasto-Joint Stick (http://www.laco.com/pipe-thread-sealants/plasto-joint-stik-/

Any information as to whether it is similar to Rectorseal? Different material altogether? Set up permanently or permit disassembly? (I have call in to their tech support, but not heard back.)

Thanks.

 

[Kengar]

(I have call in to their tech support, but not heard back.)

Thanks.

Heard back from tech support. She said she can't give me the composition because it's proprietary. (puhlease....... I can guarantee you that it could be identified easily enough with appropriate equipment.......). Referred me to the SDS, which I had already seen online. SDS identifies Polyisobutylene, which is, I believe, synthetic rubber. Tech support said the product is "gummy," should allow disassembly of the joint if needed, and is "waxy" instead of like a paste. Wouldn't tell me if there are fibers in it (like T2). Gimme a freaking break....

 

[Yogre]

What did you end up using?

I've got some threads I need to redo that have slow leaks. Like you, I've tried Teflon tape and a sealant with threads of PTFE in it, and haven't been happy with the results in either case.

I'm thinking about trying Spears Blue 75. No Teflon, and it's non-toxic. I saw it recommended on a plumbing forum.

 

[Kengar]

What did you end up using?

.

The plasto-joint should arrive today and I will try it out on the bulkheads through bottom where there were leaks today. I've got to silicone some glass supports in place along the bottom first and allow a couple days to cure before another trial fill (to support perforated plate above bottom, using reverse undergravel flow via closed loop system to lift detritus up out of substrate). Will let you know when done.

 

[skulls1075]

i have used this stuff for years. works great.

 

[Tyler.L]

im a plumber by trade, and all you should need is teflon tape, but not the white. Get the pink or orange stuff. White is just like a paper and is horrible.

no screwed joints should leak....ever. Tighten them up with pliers. Sometimes all they need is just a little crack more and they close up.

 

[Kengar]

What did you end up using?

I’ve got some threads I need to redo that have slow leaks. Like you, I’ve tried Teflon tape and a sealant with threads of PTFE in it, and haven’t been happy with the results in either case.

I’m thinking about trying Spears Blue 75. No Teflon, and it’s non-toxic. I saw it recommended on a plumbing forum.

The Plasto-Joint seems to be working well. Filling right now (test fill). It has the feel of a large, somewhat tacky crayon. Took a little longer to apply than the Rectorseal, since I needed to "scuff" the stick over the same area a few times to completely coat. Far less ooze-out as the fitting was tightened in than with the Rectorseal. I bought three sticks for the project, not knowing how big they are and how they would compare to Rectorseal (1.75 oz tube of Rectorseal vs. 1.25 oz stick of Plasto-Joint); I doubt I will even need two sticks, whereas I would have used three tubes of Rectorseal by time project is finished, given the rate I was using it up.

I would recommend it.

 

[Kengar]

im a plumber by trade, and all you should need is teflon tape, but not the white. Get the pink or orange stuff. White is just like a paper and is horrible.

no screwed joints should leak....ever. Tighten them up with pliers. Sometimes all they need is just a little crack more and they close up.

I used teflon tape for years without a problem. However, I've also come to see a lot of information -- from manufacturer as well as engineer in their professional capacity -- explaining why it should not be used on plastic threads.

Given the location I'm working with here -- bulkheads through bottom of tank for a closed loop system, where I won't be able to isolate and repair without completely draining the tank -- I'm doing everything "by the book" here.

 

[Tyler.L]

I used teflon tape for years without a problem. However, I've also come to see a lot of information -- from manufacturer as well as engineer in their professional capacity -- explaining why it should not be used on plastic threads.

Given the location I'm working with here -- bulkheads through bottom of tank for a closed loop system, where I won't be able to isolate and repair without completely draining the tank -- I'm doing everything "by the book" here.

Engineers are useless. They see stuff on paper and think oh ok thats what works. It doesnt always. Thats another rant for another day. I have used Teflon on plastic always...and I am in commercial plumbing so there is alot of schedule 40/80 pvc etc. Ive never had a leak on pvc or any screwed plastic, ever. Hand tight at first and then a couple cracks with pliers does the trick.

 

[Yogre]

The Plasto-Joint seems to be working well. Filling right now (test fill). It has the feel of a large, somewhat tacky crayon. Took a little longer to apply than the Rectorseal, since I needed to "scuff" the stick over the same area a few times to completely coat. Far less ooze-out as the fitting was tightened in than with the Rectorseal. I bought three sticks for the project, not knowing how big they are and how they would compare to Rectorseal (1.75 oz tube of Rectorseal vs. 1.25 oz stick of Plasto-Joint); I doubt I will even need two sticks, whereas I would have used three tubes of Rectorseal by time project is finished, given the rate I was using it up.

I would recommend it.

Cool, thanks. If the Spears product I bought doesn't work out, I'll try the Plasto-Joint.