power boat jim
Well-known member
The one I have is my avatar its a 2013 Cruisers 380. Mine will be in storage until May.
You are correct the thread needed an intermission .
LED's are bad for our Hobby
- Thread starter b7fig
- Start date
The one I have is my avatar its a 2013 Cruisers 380. Mine will be in storage until May.
You are correct the thread needed an intermission .
power boat jim
Well-known member
I'm guessing this is what a MH/T5 owner's actually see:
And this is what LED owners see:
Just joking, bored, had to go there. This snow really is coming down!
Now that theres funny!!
Perth_reefer
Member
power boat jim
Well-known member
Well we have boats but dont live 800meters from anything like that. Fair is in the eye of the beholder.
Perth_reefer
Member
Yeah but to be honest I'm not taking a boat out here unless its a decent size.....theres some BIG fish out there!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VufFzh075m4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cArHIOJTHgE
Last edited:
power boat jim
Well-known member
Your gonna need a bigger boat!!
Perth_reefer
Member
Haha, yeah, I added a second video to that post, going to need a very big boat!!
when i posted my comment i'm not saying Royal Blue, Blue and White led's can't produce, what i mean is if your shooting to get all the rainbow of colors that SPS have, you want to be able to control just more than Royal blue, Blue and White led's. Some SPS prefer more green and red to color up, but providing it to all coral's makes for a greater chance to produce stunning color.
the lights being too close and too intense is a lot of people's problems.
I had my PAR38 led lights 8 inches above my tank and my tank was 24" tall, i still had a center PAR of 180 and an outer rim PAR of 80-90 at that high with 40 degree optic's, i focused the lights in a way where i lit the main portions of my structure as my layout and where the PAR was highest my SPS went, all other lower light corals did amazingly well with just the spill off.
The most LED's i used on my tank as far as colors went were White, Blue, Royal Blue, Warm White and Cyan. i know that with just these colors you can get amazing color but it's nice to see manufacture's adding more spectrums for diversity.
Although like on my setup you can use minimal colored led's and get great results i believe myself as someone who used LED's for over 2 years on a 200g and it was the only light source i ever had over the tank. That you do need more spectrums to make all corals happy.
I never went higher than a 9-10 hour photoperiod either, i love all lighting type's MH is set it and forget it and that's why i loved MH for 3 years until i set my 200g up, i realized saving on electricity and bulb replacement by itself was enough of a trade off to switch to LED's even though when i did it the PAR38's had just come out and had never been tested on a bigger tank
the lights being too close and too intense is a lot of people's problems.
I had my PAR38 led lights 8 inches above my tank and my tank was 24" tall, i still had a center PAR of 180 and an outer rim PAR of 80-90 at that high with 40 degree optic's, i focused the lights in a way where i lit the main portions of my structure as my layout and where the PAR was highest my SPS went, all other lower light corals did amazingly well with just the spill off.
The most LED's i used on my tank as far as colors went were White, Blue, Royal Blue, Warm White and Cyan. i know that with just these colors you can get amazing color but it's nice to see manufacture's adding more spectrums for diversity.
Although like on my setup you can use minimal colored led's and get great results i believe myself as someone who used LED's for over 2 years on a 200g and it was the only light source i ever had over the tank. That you do need more spectrums to make all corals happy.
I never went higher than a 9-10 hour photoperiod either, i love all lighting type's MH is set it and forget it and that's why i loved MH for 3 years until i set my 200g up, i realized saving on electricity and bulb replacement by itself was enough of a trade off to switch to LED's even though when i did it the PAR38's had just come out and had never been tested on a bigger tank
dkeller_nc
New member
Thats just disquesting. I did my first dive in Sydney.
Paul - you're a better man than I; I've 100+ dives in my log, one of which was a "Thanksgiving Dive" challenge for charity in a local rock quarry. Even with a 5mm wetsuit, full hood, gloves and booties, I froze my keister off. And my computer said the water temp was 64 deg F. After that experience, I swore off diving in any water that wasn't at least 78 deg F. I can't imagine diving anywhere north of Cape Hatteras, much less NY/NJ!
Paul B
Premium Member
The vast majority of my dives were in New York. For about 10 years we dove every day on weekends or at night for lobsters or wrecks. I don't know how many dives I have as I stopped logging them after about 200 or 250. But I have my own boat and gear so I don't need to worry about numbers or logging. I dive to have fun, not to impress anyone.
Completely agree. I bought my first metal halide light in about 1989. It was a DuplSun LI with dual 250 HQI. No aquarium specific bulbs to choose from, just a couple of daylight 5000K neutral daylight choices from Osram. Not sure those would be cutting it on a modern reef tank
Used that fixture almost continuously until about 2008, though with far better bulb choices. Now I'm exclusively LED, and I think growth and health has never been better.billyzbear
Active member
I have been doing some light testing. How high would you have a 150w mh 14k? It's in my sump with only 7" of water. I'm going to see if it is better than a led reefbreeder. So far it looks like the zoa are doing better but SPS are not. The mh is 8" off the water. I have both so why not...
Moser
Active member
= plasma are better at growing LPS than led, but no idea how they compare to T5 or MH or with SPS.
