Lesson learned: respect the advice here

mpderksen

New member
The list is too long to cover all the things I've learned here, but tonight I got a rude awakening.
I had put together, and cycled a 10gallon tank for my neighbor's daughter for her birthday. They had a FW tank and she wanted a Nano after seeing my 75 when she came over. No problem. Her parents gave me the cash, and I let it cycle for a month on my desk, then added a small CUC etc. all the basic stuff. Last weekend they brought over 2 small Domino damsels. One lasted for about a day or two. The other was active and eating. I figured it was just one of those things. I tested everything and it all seemed fine.
Yesterday, we mostly drained it, moved it to her room and set it up. Today, dead Damsel! Crud-monkeys!!!
So the dad asked me why the salt was so high on his new float tester. He brought it over. We tested the water in mine, and sure enough, my tester read 1.025 (perfect), but his said 1.029!
My little Instant Ocean tester is probably 10 years old, and it just figured it was "close enough". But in spite of pretty much everyone here saying that a refractometer was an essential tool, I just had been chugging along with the way I'd always done it.
Just now I ordered a real refractometer. Cost me less than some of the fish I've lost. I don't know the true salinity at this point, but if it truly is 1.029, I can only imagine the stress and potential losses this has created.
The lesson: if a few hundred tanks are successful by doing something one way, take a look at why I'm doing something different.

Another small example is using the API tester for PO4. Yet I have GHA. So I bought a HANNA checker, and no surprise, the PO4 is actually 0.06. Same lesson learned. I'm now looking over all the arrogant attitudes I've stubbornly held to, rather than respecting the advice I read every day.

(Yes, my purchase of a Volitan is probably gonna be next on the list....)

Am I alone in this? Or have you had a blockhead moment yourself?

Michael
 
Well, the refractometer came today. My tank is 1.025, just like my float one said. His new one was bad. Either way, reliable testers are high on my priority list now. HANNA checker for nitrates is next payday.
Kinda bummed, actually. I was hoping I had been having problems due to high SG. Guess I'll keep looking.
 
Are you talking about a hydrometer? if so, most of the time they don't give an accurate reading out of the box but in normal circumstances they will not change (need recalibration).

Measure the SG with your refractometer, let's say you want to mix water at SG 1.025 (you current SG), to make sure it is 1.025 or xxxxx. Then measure with the refractometer and mark with a sharpie wherever the needle it is pointing. Now every time you want salinity at 1.025 or xxxxx you can measure with the hydrometer and the needle needs to be at the mark you made, it will remain constant (as I said before under normal circumstances).
 
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Great. But since I just proved mine is accurate (as they can be) and I now own the refractometer, I'm going to give the hydrometer to me neighbor and let him return the one that's off. It's off a lot.
 
A 1 month cycle is not going to cut it. A typical cycle last from 6, 8 - 12 weeks.

I see too many typical beginner mistakes. Dominos get pretty big and mean. You do realize a Volitan lionfish needs to be tanks of over 100 gallons, right? They will eat any fish big enough to fit in its mouth.

Do research on fish compatibility and recommended tank size requirements before buying new fish.
 
in my view, anyone who is willing to look at themselves, accept that they might be wrong and change their point of view is no blockhead at all. A nano for the newbie neighbor might not be the most successful scenario but you are all learning on the way. Most people didn't learn the optimal way of doing things by making no mistakes ever.
 
A 1 month cycle is not going to cut it. A typical cycle last from 6, 8 - 12 weeks.

I see too many typical beginner mistakes. Dominos get pretty big and mean. You do realize a Volitan lionfish needs to be tanks of over 100 gallons, right? They will eat any fish big enough to fit in its mouth.

Do research on fish compatibility and recommended tank size requirements before buying new fish.

Wow, talk about "Internet courage"! Maybe I'm mis-reading your tone, and if so I apologize. In my years on Nano-reef.com, there was a lot more civility. Here, I guy has to be ready to criticized for making mistakes, rather than helped. Maybe the members of RC are younger and grew up different than I was taught.

I don't owe you clarification, but the tank did cycle for 5 week until I saw the levels get where they should be (I said a month, but whatever). The CUC was a small set of about 6 from my re-fresh package for my 75 from Reef Cleaners, and they sat in there for about 3 weeks until the neighbor popped in with the dominos. The plan had been for him to get her a small False perc, the the LSF sold him these instead. Not my tank, not my decision. The fact that one dies quickly and the second when we move the tank resulted in a long conversation about how to move forward, and they had already started reading a lot. They own 2 FW tanks, so they aren't complete noobs. I'm glad I sent them to the NR forum instead of here!
The Original Post was actually about finding a potential testing issue, and I IMMEDIATELY ordered a refractometer because once I recognize an issue, I am willing to spend the time, energy and money to make it right.

As to the Volitan, that's a separate post, but in short, it is very likely a temporary thing unless the new tank (a 180) goes exactly as planned. Since I know delays are almost certain, he'll go back once he is either in an environment too small to be healthy for him, or I start losing livestock. I don't bond that tight to my fish, and if a Chromis becomes lunch, well, it's a $5 dinner, and that would prompt me to act. How wonderful that I have to take the time to give all background and justification to earn your respect or approval.

On the other hand, maybe I need to chill out and not be so defensive. Pretty likely, actually.
Here is the picture of my nano that they wanted to copy
9ydyhuda.jpg
 
Well, the refractometer came today. My tank is 1.025, just like my float one said. His new one was bad. Either way, reliable testers are high on my priority list now. HANNA checker for nitrates is next payday.
Kinda bummed, actually. I was hoping I had been having problems due to high SG. Guess I'll keep looking.

I wouldn't bother with the hanna for nitrates.
Actually I wouldn't bother with the hanna for anything but Alk and P04.
Nitrates are not that important. If you can tell if they are less than 10 or over 20 or something like that, that's good enough and most liquid nitrate test kits are pretty accurate.
I wouldn't worry about the number chasing so much.
Alk is really the only thing i like to keep as steady as possible.
 
Great! Thanks. I am currently trying to control Alk with a dosing pump and B-Ionc 2-part. More regular testing (when done accurately) certainly would be valuable.

Also, thanks for the PM in answer to my photography questions. I'm still trying to figure out Loghtroom, which you suggested.

Michael
 
I assume the damsels weren't QT'd so it's pretty safe to assume that could be the issue. (under the assumption the tank completed its cycle) I've cycled marine tanks pretty quickly, even quicker than a month even.

Anyways, good luck.
 
A 1 month cycle is not going to cut it. A typical cycle last from 6, 8 - 12 weeks.

I see too many typical beginner mistakes. Dominos get pretty big and mean. You do realize a Volitan lionfish needs to be tanks of over 100 gallons, right? They will eat any fish big enough to fit in its mouth.

Do research on fish compatibility and recommended tank size requirements before buying new fish.


Having a bad day? Sheesh...
 
I assume the damsels weren't QT'd so it's pretty safe to assume that could be the issue. (under the assumption the tank completed its cycle) I've cycled marine tanks pretty quickly, even quicker than a month even.

Anyways, good luck.

Since they were the only thing in the tank except a few snails, isn't that pretty much a QT right there? My understanding was to QT something new to prevent spreading to the existing tank. I did a drip acclimation for about an hour, didn't use the LFS water, and in they went.
Though API isn't the best test kit on the market, I did use it, saw the expected rises, in the right order, and only added snails when they were all undetectable.
Maybe this is the blind leading the blind, but I tend to think that Nanos, with limited livestock, softies only, good lights and religious water changes (I did 25%/week) is way easier than a mixed reef with its fun extra stuff.
 
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