Dudester
Premium Member
You shouldn't be having this much trouble with the plumbing. Let's go through the steps. First of all, are you using the correct primer and PVC glue? Not all adhesives are made for all pipes, so make sure your materials are properly matched. If you want to be extra safe, you can get the PVC glue and primer that's made for high pressure (Sched 80) applications, which is what I prefer to use.
At each joint, are you applying primer and glue on both pieces that are to be glued together? When you attach them, push the pipe all the way into the fitting, then give it a quarter turn. Hold it in place for 15 seconds before letting go so that the parts don't slide away from one another. There will almost certainly be some extra glue that oozes out of the joint, so use this to your advantage. Use a cloth (I prefer my finger) and rub this around the circumference of the joint to strengthen it even more.
At threaded joints make sure you first wrap the male threads counterclockwise with teflon tape. If you are using standard teflon give it at least 8 wraps (most people recommend 4, I always use more than that). Apply only a small amount of tape at the end and add more wraps as you move up the threads, so that every turn of the joint is tighter than the last. You can also use the thicker teflon tape made for gas pipe fittings (it's often pink or yellow), and with this you can use less wraps.
Ideally you will allow the freshly plumbed material to remain dry for 12 hours or more, but I realize that's not always possible. If this is too elementary for you then I apologize, but you really shouldn't be having this much trouble with leaks.
At each joint, are you applying primer and glue on both pieces that are to be glued together? When you attach them, push the pipe all the way into the fitting, then give it a quarter turn. Hold it in place for 15 seconds before letting go so that the parts don't slide away from one another. There will almost certainly be some extra glue that oozes out of the joint, so use this to your advantage. Use a cloth (I prefer my finger) and rub this around the circumference of the joint to strengthen it even more.
At threaded joints make sure you first wrap the male threads counterclockwise with teflon tape. If you are using standard teflon give it at least 8 wraps (most people recommend 4, I always use more than that). Apply only a small amount of tape at the end and add more wraps as you move up the threads, so that every turn of the joint is tighter than the last. You can also use the thicker teflon tape made for gas pipe fittings (it's often pink or yellow), and with this you can use less wraps.
Ideally you will allow the freshly plumbed material to remain dry for 12 hours or more, but I realize that's not always possible. If this is too elementary for you then I apologize, but you really shouldn't be having this much trouble with leaks.
wear gloves. Once the spaflex starts to warm up it will bend easily. if its warm enough that your gloves 'tack' on the pipe (as in leave a texture or pattern behind) then you got too warm. If the pipe starts to 'collapse' at all then you got too warm on one spot. turn off the heatgun and pinch the pipe at the widest point to remake the circular shape, and hold it until it cools off a bit.
