Lets do this - 225+ reef bar
- Thread starter mcliffy2
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Dudester
Premium Member
FYI, I used the thick teflon tape for my Sequence Barracuda, and there's been no problem with any leak. On my office tank I run a Dart and a Hammerhead, all plumbed with the regular teflon tape, and again no leak. But use what you're comfortable with, as there's more than one way to skin a cat (pardon the expression). Looking forward to the update.
mcliffy2
New member
Hmmm, well we wrapped them like 20 times with teflon and I was going to have to buy a large wrench to get them out, so I'm thinking I'll probably be ok. I designed it so I can cut that section out if need be after its glued. Planning on gluing everything into place tonight, so hopefully it will be good to go. Then I just gotta figure out how to mount the light...right now it is held up by a makeshift 2x4 stand that blocks out a few of the bulbs.
mcliffy2
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12480866#post12480866 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jflip2002
Are you making trips to the glacier machine with buckets? lol. Thats how I filled my 60g up, boy did that suck. Vortechs, Sfiligoi, Reeflo... wheres the 300 gpd RODI unit?
Just noticed this post...I actually bought 2 piggyback RO membranes, so my Typhoon unit is technically up to 300 gpd
My water pressure sucks though, so I probably get more like 125-150...
mcliffy2
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Everything is plumbed and all glued connections are sealed, but when I fired it up this morning, one of the bulkheads on my drain had a slight leak, so tonight I'll fix that, then fire it up, and hopefully will have time to plumb the skimmer and then get my place cleaned up.
In the mean time, I've been thinking about my lighting. I'm leaning right now to using T-slot aluminum framing. heres a sketch...comments?
In the mean time, I've been thinking about my lighting. I'm leaning right now to using T-slot aluminum framing. heres a sketch...comments?
mcliffy2
New member
Yea, 100 GPD is at a water pressure higher than most people have and at an optimum temperature (cold water goes slower, but too hot and you'll burn through your DI and I think your RO Membrane too). And yes, all you do is piggyback it on, its very easy to setup. Wonder what happened with salty, seems like he had a run-in with the mods....
Untamed12
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12552056#post12552056 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mcliffy2
Everything is plumbed and all glued connections are sealed, but when I fired it up this morning, one of the bulkheads on my drain had a slight leak, so tonight I'll fix that, then fire it up, and hopefully will have time to plumb the skimmer and then get my place cleaned up.
In the mean time, I've been thinking about my lighting. I'm leaning right now to using T-slot aluminum framing. heres a sketch...comments?
I'm wondering where the lift force is going to come from....Are you going to pull straight up/down on the arms, or is the lifting going to be driven at one end (near the vertical rails).
I'm concerned about the weight of the lights hanging out on those arms. That is going to produce a lot of angular force on the point where the arms meet the vertical tracks. (unless you are holding the weight up somehow).
Basically, you don't want the vertical track to be doing two different tasks. It should either be a guide for the lift...or take the weight of the lights on the arms...but I think things will bind up on you if you try both.
It just depends on where that lifting force comes from.
Reeftanks6
Active member
Everything is looking great!
mcliffy2
New member
Untamed, I was thinking of putting in angled supports, just didnt draw them into the sketch. MK Automation makes some linear modules I'm looking at that will raise and lower the arms and hold quite a bit of weight (not sure if its the same thing, but check out Bricky's build over in the Elos forum...I stole the basic idea from him, the thread is "the Big E"). You raise and lower with a crank, or optionally they install a motor, but I'm guessing that gets really pricy....
Now, time for some FTS
The makeshift stand is hiding the actinics and fiji purple, so it kinda has a 10k look (2 UV aquasun in the middle...I think I'm going to replace one with a fiji purple). And man, does a tank move brown out the corals...sheez, all that color I worked so long for...gone. Hopefully now that the Reeflo is running it will come back...
Now, time for some FTS
The makeshift stand is hiding the actinics and fiji purple, so it kinda has a 10k look (2 UV aquasun in the middle...I think I'm going to replace one with a fiji purple). And man, does a tank move brown out the corals...sheez, all that color I worked so long for...gone. Hopefully now that the Reeflo is running it will come back...
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
agreed 
looks great! dont stress too much over the colors, I'm sure they will come back. of course once your fiji and actinic bulbs are more visible that will help. It may be as much perception based on lighting as actual color change.
looks great! dont stress too much over the colors, I'm sure they will come back. of course once your fiji and actinic bulbs are more visible that will help. It may be as much perception based on lighting as actual color change.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
in his post he said the makeshift stand lumber is blocking most of the light from the actinics and fiji purple. probably on just not contributing much. that would definitely make the colors look more boring to you, especially if you're used to seeing that kind of lighting on them.
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