youngreef180
New member
A controller with an IPhone app now thats cool.
Lightsluvr's 340G Upgrade
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
George,
+1 on using the pink foam under the tank. I think I have a piece. Will try to remember to throw it in the car tomorrow in case you need it. If you are using sand in the tank, you won't need to silicone the black overflow cover. Nothing is going to stop sand from getting behind it as far as I know.
Good luck with the plumbing....
+1 on using the pink foam under the tank. I think I have a piece. Will try to remember to throw it in the car tomorrow in case you need it. If you are using sand in the tank, you won't need to silicone the black overflow cover. Nothing is going to stop sand from getting behind it as far as I know.
Good luck with the plumbing....
Do you mean the frag tank?
LL
ixouttheeyes
New member
ozone
ozone
This is a bit late, but I'll add my 2¢ anyhow. According to your favorite reef chemist, there should hardly be any residual ozone before returning to the tank. Therefore, your acrylic bottom shouldn't have any issues. See the link. There is lots of good information on ozone throughout the three part article.
ozone
This is a bit late, but I'll add my 2¢ anyhow. According to your favorite reef chemist, there should hardly be any residual ozone before returning to the tank. Therefore, your acrylic bottom shouldn't have any issues. See the link. There is lots of good information on ozone throughout the three part article.
IBASSFSH
New member
I know from personal experience that if I cut some of my PVC drain pipe to modify it, the pipe breaks were I am trying to cut it rather than getting a nice clean cut. I use ozone, and not sure if that makes the PVC more brittle or not.
I know when I used to repair PVC pipe in my yard after a break it would still cut easier than pipe in my aquarium after using it with ozone.
My ozone is not added to the drain pipes, but rather into my skimmer. Then back in to my 100 gallon sump then back through my 75 gallon sump, and finally back to my display tank.
I am glad the AGE manufacturer chimed in saying there are no worries also.
I know when I used to repair PVC pipe in my yard after a break it would still cut easier than pipe in my aquarium after using it with ozone.
My ozone is not added to the drain pipes, but rather into my skimmer. Then back in to my 100 gallon sump then back through my 75 gallon sump, and finally back to my display tank.
I am glad the AGE manufacturer chimed in saying there are no worries also.
Re: ozone
Re: ozone
Great information - I really like to read Randy's articles, though some of them scare the heck out of me
and I had not seen these...
Thanks!
LL
Re: ozone
Great information - I really like to read Randy's articles, though some of them scare the heck out of me
and I had not seen these...Thanks!
LL
Hmmm.... you mean you have to repair PVC sometimes?? I thought it last forever, like in a landfill!
God forbid I ever have a PVC break in my plumbing web... I had just gotten over nightmares about what would happen if the flexible PVC blew a fitting while I was sleeping... :eek2:
Looks like the impact of ozone on PVC pipe is more a concern than 1" PVC tank bottom...
Thanks for the info.
LL
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
George
Thanks for visiting my thread and I took your advice and spent some time on yours (the last two days reading all the way through). :eek2: Great build thread and very well thought out. I love your light rail. I could not have done the same thing on mine as my wife would have gone postal if I had hung that from my sunroom ceiling.
As it is I have to remove my light fixtures from off the tank for major cleaning of the glass at the sand and the corners. I have my AI fixtures configured such that I can easily unplug the power cords and the data cables (at phono connectors) at the ends and then lift the fixture rails off the tank. Same with the Aquanitics MH which has a multi-pin plug for the connections for the ballast, T5s and fan.
I read someone's post about the advantages of the Apex and it gave me a retrospective decision making moment.
Having said that, I like my RKE and a lot of the issues that some have, are being fixed with firmware updates. I made a recommendation to DA that they allow updates overt the bus because the issue with having to remove every module from the bus is a PTA -- particularly as I am a Mac user and they don't have a firmware updater for the Mac just yet.
If I could make a suggestion for the space under the stand that supports the POS, you could use it for extra storage. I like your Ed&Sandy modified RO/SW system. As you probably know from reading my thread that I shut off my main and skimmer pump (using the "Standby" feature of the RKE) drain my 20 gallon sump via a ball valve underneath, and then pump NSW over from my holding tank. It takes me about 10 minutes and has little effect on the 260 gallon total water volume. Why make life difficult if you don't have to. :rollface:
Thanks for visiting my thread and I took your advice and spent some time on yours (the last two days reading all the way through). :eek2: Great build thread and very well thought out. I love your light rail. I could not have done the same thing on mine as my wife would have gone postal if I had hung that from my sunroom ceiling.
As it is I have to remove my light fixtures from off the tank for major cleaning of the glass at the sand and the corners. I have my AI fixtures configured such that I can easily unplug the power cords and the data cables (at phono connectors) at the ends and then lift the fixture rails off the tank. Same with the Aquanitics MH which has a multi-pin plug for the connections for the ballast, T5s and fan.I read someone's post about the advantages of the Apex and it gave me a retrospective decision making moment.
Having said that, I like my RKE and a lot of the issues that some have, are being fixed with firmware updates. I made a recommendation to DA that they allow updates overt the bus because the issue with having to remove every module from the bus is a PTA -- particularly as I am a Mac user and they don't have a firmware updater for the Mac just yet.If I could make a suggestion for the space under the stand that supports the POS, you could use it for extra storage. I like your Ed&Sandy modified RO/SW system. As you probably know from reading my thread that I shut off my main and skimmer pump (using the "Standby" feature of the RKE) drain my 20 gallon sump via a ball valve underneath, and then pump NSW over from my holding tank. It takes me about 10 minutes and has little effect on the 260 gallon total water volume. Why make life difficult if you don't have to. :rollface:
I had to stop a minute and translate POS :lol: :lol:
I do the same thing for water change, except I drain from the Rubbermaid sump to a level determined by the vertical elbow on the drain line - about 55G) and then refill the Rubbermaid while circulating the new water into the system with the return pump... When the POS reaches the ideal level (marked by a strip of black tape on the center chamber) I know that I have replaced exactly the same amount of water that was drained. Then I turn my ATO back on...
Also about 7-10 minute water change with minimal impact on the DT.
Thanks for stopping by - I learn so much by reading others' build threads...
LL
Hey, George! Goodness, you've been going great guns! Love the frag tank. How do you like your Ace Roto-Molds?
I've also been having nightmares about the possible effects of ozone on my plumbing. I found it will very quickly wipe out 1/4" RO/DI fittings (of the John Guest type). I had one break in half. Luckily there was no water flowing at the time.
I've also been having nightmares about the possible effects of ozone on my plumbing. I found it will very quickly wipe out 1/4" RO/DI fittings (of the John Guest type). I had one break in half. Luckily there was no water flowing at the time.
Hi Tom!
The Roto-Mold tanks are working great... I have been mixing new SW in the one for weeks, and can see very little residue one would expect from Reef Crystals. That may be because I keep it circulating at about 1000gph when SW is in that tank...
The more I read about ozone issues, the less likely I am inclined to explore it, even though I have a Red Sea Generator sitting in a drawer here...
I WILL get the LRC-2 CA Reactor going first and then I might just scratch playing with ozone. It looks like the tank is staying over 300mv without it, so may just leave well enough alone...
LL
Brad Rogers
Member
You may have touched on it before, but what are the benefits of ozone?
Allegedly improves, quality, clarity and oxygenation of the water.
Note I said allegedly. Those articles referenced above provide more than most folks want to know about ozone in the aquarium...they made my head hurt...
LL
crimsontopper
New member
Great tank! took me a couple days, but i read it all. i hate showing my inexperience, but what is orp?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thanks for reading the saga!
Don't worry about being inexperienced - the patience to learn is what will make you successful in this hobby... A few months ago, I had no clue about ORP, and I am still studying whether I want to "tinker" with it in my tank by adding an ozone generator...
Oxidation Reduction Potential (ORP), also known as redox, is the measurement of a solution's oxidizing and reducing activity. (I snagged that from a Google search)
Come back often!
LL
Thanks!
Thanks for reading the saga!
Don't worry about being inexperienced - the patience to learn is what will make you successful in this hobby... A few months ago, I had no clue about ORP, and I am still studying whether I want to "tinker" with it in my tank by adding an ozone generator...
Oxidation Reduction Potential (ORP), also known as redox, is the measurement of a solution's oxidizing and reducing activity. (I snagged that from a Google search)
Come back often!
LL
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
George
On more thing, I'm surprised that you have a CL and two MP40s. I have a 60" long tank with two Vortechs and cannot run them more than 30% as the undertow scoops out channels in the sand. I have taken to adding very coarse gravel in the front corners where the erosion is the worst. I have my Vortechs 18" up off the sand on the back facing the front glass as I didn't want them visible on the ends. I see yours are on the ends but how far up off the sand do you have yours mounted and what's your experience with scouring of the sand bed?
Thanks
On more thing, I'm surprised that you have a CL and two MP40s. I have a 60" long tank with two Vortechs and cannot run them more than 30% as the undertow scoops out channels in the sand.
I have taken to adding very coarse gravel in the front corners where the erosion is the worst. I have my Vortechs 18" up off the sand on the back facing the front glass as I didn't want them visible on the ends. I see yours are on the ends but how far up off the sand do you have yours mounted and what's your experience with scouring of the sand bed?Thanks
Vortechs
Vortechs
When I first started the tank, I just ran the Vortechs - one was on the right side near the front, and the second was on the left side, near the rear of the tank. That created a very nice clockwise flow, and I was able to run the MP40W's wide open without disturbing the sand bed.
Now I have the CL running, which generally pushes water counter-clockwise. The only disturbance to the sand bed is where the flow of the CL and Vortechs "collide", creating a lot of turbulence and exposing the tank bottom in a 6" circle along the back wall...I plan to fine tune the CL this week, add a few more peices of LR and see if I can get it worked out the way I want it...
LL
Vortechs
When I first started the tank, I just ran the Vortechs - one was on the right side near the front, and the second was on the left side, near the rear of the tank. That created a very nice clockwise flow, and I was able to run the MP40W's wide open without disturbing the sand bed.
Now I have the CL running, which generally pushes water counter-clockwise. The only disturbance to the sand bed is where the flow of the CL and Vortechs "collide", creating a lot of turbulence and exposing the tank bottom in a 6" circle along the back wall...I plan to fine tune the CL this week, add a few more peices of LR and see if I can get it worked out the way I want it...
LL
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