Lightsluvr's 340G Upgrade

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15499971#post15499971 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Brad Rogers
Provided the aquarium has no broken or chipped glass or altered sealant, Glasscages.com LLC, will replace the aquarium at no charge, shipping not included.
"[/i]

I would still want to send the company president/CEO pictures of the chipped edges...maybe someone will listen and strengthen their QC department just a little... If it is presented to them as a point of concern, instead of contention, maybe just maybe something good would come from it...:fun5:

That first paragraph makes the assumption that if there is any chipped glass, it was caused by the owner... not GC. Try to conviince Ms. GC on the phone that the chipped glass is "hidden" in the original factory silicone. And of course as soon as you patch a leak, the warranty is void.

Finally, you pay shipping for a 35+ pound tank to and from TN. Hmmmm... that's not such a good deal, even if it was in warranty.

Let's talk about something else... :D

LL
 
I would let it dry out completely before starting your repair. Perhaps flipping it over would help get some of the water out of those areas you mentioned.

Let it bake in the sun for a few days first, then when it looks dried out, bring it back in and let it cool off before you start to mend it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15500311#post15500311 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I would let it dry out completely before starting your repair. Perhaps flipping it over would help get some of the water out of those areas you mentioned.

Let it bake in the sun for a few days first, then when it looks dried out, bring it back in and let it cool off before you start to mend it.

That's what she's doing (baking)... I'll leave it outside unless we're going to get rain, then I'll lug it inside... I read the silicone instructions to apply at room temperature...

Thanks again for the tip, Marc.

LL
 
Plans

Plans

We will re-silicone the frag tank this evening. I will let the silicone cure for 24 hours before trying a second water test...

Taking a business trip early today, so not much will be happening in the fish room.

It's about time to turn my attention to the LRC-2 CA Reactor. First I will dose the tank (if necessary) to slowly reach optimum CA, ALK and MG levels.

Last nights readings:
Nitrates - 0
Nitrite - 0
CA - 450
ALK - 8.5
MG - 1300
PO4 - .02

I noticed that Reef Crystals' ALK reading for the latest batch of new SW mix was 12.0. No doubt the weekly 55G water changes help keep the ALK level up in the system. I was struggling keeping stable ALK levels in my previous tanks, and sustained some heart breaking acro losses as a result.

Glad to see the ORP slowly moving upward. Now 200+ What is a good ORP number to expect when the probe stabilizes? I have a Red Sea Ozone Generator, but won't put it on line until I get a better understanding of the process. Any suggestions?

LL
 
Last edited:
I have a question and it may be a stupid one. If ozone breaks down plastic over time, how will it effect the pvc bottom of your tank over time?

I am a big fan of ozone and have used it for over 5 years. As noted above 380 is a good number, but I actually keep my ORP at about 410.
I have not had anything break due to ozone other than a air adjustment valve on my Deltec skimmer.
 
Thanks, Mike

Thanks, Mike

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15503609#post15503609 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by skiformance
380 is a safe #

Thanks, Mike.

I have done nothing yet (except water changes), and the ORP has gradually risen to 260+. Sandy says there is a "break-in" period for a new probe, so I'm just watching to see where it starts to level off...

LL
 
Ozone bad for PVC?

Ozone bad for PVC?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15503936#post15503936 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IBASSFSH
I have a question and it may be a stupid one. If ozone breaks down plastic over time, how will it effect the pvc bottom of your tank over time?

I am a big fan of ozone and have used it for over 5 years. As noted above 380 is a good number, but I actually keep my ORP at about 410.
I have not had anything break due to ozone other than a air adjustment valve on my Deltec skimmer.

I don't have a clue, but hope someone stops by with a comment on this question...

LL
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15503936#post15503936 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IBASSFSH

I am a big fan of ozone and have used it for over 5 years. As noted above 380 is a good number, but I actually keep my ORP at about 410.
I have not had anything break due to ozone other than a air adjustment valve on my Deltec skimmer.

I'd love to see how you have you Red Sea Ionizer set up in your system... pictures and hints appreciated!

LL
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15499698#post15499698 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lightsluvr
Did they put those little glass strips in the joints of your big tank? I thought I remembered seeing them in your broken overflow photos and wondered to myself what purpose they served...maybe I was dreaming... ;)

You'd think if they were going to use them as strengthening (or whatever), they would silicone between the two pieces of glass...


LL

Yes, they did put those little glass strips across the entire bottom of the tank.
When we did a water test on our tank, I want to say that we watched it for a several days, with "each" repair to the overflow box.

I know all to well how the Mrs.GC is, lets just say I had a "little" experience with her........But in all fairness to her, (after Ed called her ;) ) she did help us resolve the problem. If not we would have returned the tank.

I have taken a marker and circled any questionable seam on the tank. So far these circles, that I look at on a regular basic are fine.

BTW, I have several friends who have purchased GlassCages tanks, and luckily they have never had a problem with their tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15509170#post15509170 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by edandsandy
Yes, they did put those little glass strips across the entire bottom of the tank.
When we did a water test on our tank, I want to say that we watched it for a several days, with "each" repair to the overflow box.

I know all to well how the Mrs.GC is, lets just say I had a "little" experience with her........But in all fairness to her, (after Ed called her ;) ) she did help us resolve the problem. If not we would have returned the tank.

I have taken a marker and circled any questionable seam on the tank. So far these circles, that I look at on a regular basic are fine.

BTW, I have several friends who have purchased GlassCages tanks, and luckily they have never had a problem with their tank.

Thanks Sandy. I am putting fresh water into the (heavily) recaulked frag tank right now...(thanks to Mother Nature) :D

We'll check it for leaks when it stops raining and things dry out...

If it's holding water, we'll bring it inside this afternoon...

George
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15503936#post15503936 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IBASSFSH
I have a question and it may be a stupid one. If ozone breaks down plastic over time, how will it effect the pvc bottom of your tank over time?

I posed this questionable to a tank builder who uses PVC in many of his high-end tanks...

He smiled, and responded, "You should live so long..." :D

He knows of customers' tanks over 6 years old that are heavily dosed with ozone, and has no reports of any changes in the PVC.

I guess I'll continue to sleep well at night... ;) though my recurring nightmare is that one of my flexible PVC joints will blow loose some day... :eek2: That would not be a good thing...

LL
 
My ozone set up is nothing major. One hose comes from an air pump to an air dryer then to the ozone generator.
The other hose goes to the air inlet hose of one of my Deltec skimmer air lines.

I cannot dose too much ozone or it may damage my Deltec skimmer. The people at Deltec say not to dose over 50 mv or 25 mv per pump.

Is your skimmer made with UV compatible acrylic? I should have just kept my old Red Sea Berlin skimmer to dose the stuff with. That way any damage would not be to significant.

That's good to hear about the pvc in your tank and ozone. I eventually want to get a AGE tank also.

I may end up going with a tank from Concept Aquarium though. I have seen some nice threads with those tanks also. A good bit cheaper also.
 
Apex controller -v- RKE

Apex controller -v- RKE

Several folks asked why I chose the new Apex controller over the RKE. Since I had never owned a controller before this tank, the only feature I could point to was internet control of the functions plus the iPhone application.

I found an interesting list of the other numerous differences on the Neptune forum and have copied it (with permission) for discussion...;)

Granted, the author of this list is understandably prejudiced toward the Apex... so don't take his opinions personally...:p

Here ya go:

"There is really no comparison between the two controllers. The RKE is inferior in just about every aspect. Here are some features in which the Apex system is better:

Looks better
Very attractive mechanical design
High Quality Display with excellent clarity/contrast.
- Costs less.
- Easy to use configuration wizards.
- Most expandable controller - up to 240 modules, thousands of outlets, hundreds of probes.
- backwards compatible with older AquaController accessories.
- More features - Some include:
more flexible/sophisticate configuration
season lighting control
season temperature control
- Integrated Ethernet (Optional $$$ on RKE)
- Monitoring & Control & configuration on the webserver.
- Only controller with web browser based configuration.
- XML support
- multiple head unit displays - not possible on RKE
- multiple sound alarms.
- Includes 6 digital inputs vs 2 on RKE.
- Galvanic Isolation on probes result in accurate readings. RKE has no isolation and has major interference issues.
- Includes built-in variable speed pump control. Not possible on RKE
- Includes built-in 0-10V light dimming. Extra on RKE
- Can name outlets, and modules - not possible on RKE
- ORP input is modal - can be ORP or pH input on Apex - not possible on RKE
- Default outlet state on Apex. On competition of a communication error occurs all outlets
just shut off - RKE just shuts everything off
- State of the Art 32 bit processor - not an 8 bit slow processor like RKE.
- 5 times faster than competitor's controllers
- 16 times more code space - much more expandable for future enhancements.
Not code space limited like the RKE
- 16 times more storage space for datalogs than the RKE.
- Bus interconnect can be starred or daisy chain configuration.
- Has Power failure detection/alarms/control - not possible on RKE.
- EB8 has power failure detection/alarms/control - not possible on RKE
- Don't have to disassemble controller to perform firmware upgrades
- Reliable/High Quality buttons (No unreliable capsense)
- Lowest cost per outlet control options
- Robust communications protocol Bus Interface with error correcting.
- EnergyBars have built-in AquaBus hubs - On RKE must purchase add-on.
- Built in virtual outlets. On RKE must purchase announced but not shipping PC1.
- Cable lengths can be much longer than RKE."

Apex just made its first firmware update and web page update available here on RC. After updating my OS, it was a breeze to install both updates while sitting at my computer.

All in all, I am very pleased with the Apex, and am not disappointed with the ability to control the tank system online from anywhere there is a computer... JMHO. :)

LL
 
PM

PM

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15511591#post15511591 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tom obrecht
pm sent

PM answered - I'd like to post here on the thread if you don't mind. Good questions that I would like to share...

Thanks.

LL
 
Re: PM

Re: PM

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15511625#post15511625 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lightsluvr
PM answered - I'd like to post here on the thread if you don't mind. Good questions that I would like to share...

Thanks.

LL

feel free!
 
What about hybrid tanks?

What about hybrid tanks?

Tom posed a good question about the theory that there is no way to "glue" acrlylic to glass to PVC, etc.:
*****************
tom obrecht wrote on 08/11/2009 03:08 PM:
Hi,

I was admiring your tank and have been thinking about getting back into the hobby with a smaller hybrid tank myself. I was also looking at the AGE brand and wonder if I could ask some questions.

I've alway heard that there is not an adhesive out there that can adhere to pvc, glass and acrylic. I'm curious how you feel your tank has/will hold up over time. Can I ask what the warranty is on your tank? 1 year I'm guessing?
Have you had any issues with your tank so far? Was there a big price difference between your tank and a tank the same size manufactured with all glass. Just curious.

I'm thinking of doing an oddities tank with dividers (only in the 50 gallon range) and this type of hybrid tank would be perfect...however I would like to get some first hand feedback before I make the plunge.
Thanks
Tom Obrecht

Lightsluvr wrote on 08/11/2009 03:20 PM:
Hi Tom,

The AGE warranty is three years if installed on their stand. I have had no issues, and really don't expect any. If you were concerned, I am sure that Tom at AGE would answer any questions you have. He has manufactured some HUGE hybrid tanks and they are working flawlessly all across the country.
I didn't price an all-glass or all acrylic tank, so have no frame of reference. However I can tell you that the Glass Cages "equivalent size" with Starphire and internal overflows (my overflow is exterior)is only $400 less than what I paid for the AGE.
Good luck with your project - sounds interesting.
LL

tom obrecht wrote on 08/11/2009 03:28 PM:
Post away! I appreciate your help and quick response. I'll contact AGE and see what they say.
Tom
***************

Thanks for asking the question and let us know what Tom says...

LL
 
Bummed

Bummed

One of my favorite Acan colonies got upended by a Turbo snail bulldozer yesterday and wound up upside down on a zoa covered rock... Let me testify that the zoas are tough - they pretty well messed up about half of the acans, which were really bleached out and stressed. Not sure if most of the heads will recover...

Damn turbos... even stronger than epoxy!

LL
 
Back
Top