Lightsluvr's 340G Upgrade
- Thread starter Lightsluvr
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I would rather leave the ball valve on the tank overflow, and add a gate valve to the skimmer intake. That way, I can leave the ball valve wide open and control the skimmer with the gate valve...
Every thing has been running perfectly for the past hour, but I am not skimming. Bubbles are about 2/3 up the cylinder...I'll leave it that way for tonight.
I have my "wet floor" alarm in place, but NO, I'm not sleeping in the fish room tonight!
G'night all.
LL
Hmmm....
Hmmm....
Now I need to enclose the tank... I bought some red oak today...
LL
Hmmm....
Now I need to enclose the tank... I bought some red oak today...
LL
Update
Update
Just did a walkabout of the fish room. Everything is running perfectly in the overflows and sumps. Did not adjust the skimmer - will wait for the morning to play with that...
One casualty in the move - apparently the purple firefish decided to hide under the wrong rock and was found floating in the old tank. The Yellow Coris and Christmas Wrasses both took to the sand and are hidden in the old tank, which still has about 10" of water and sand.. I decided to leave them in there with a powerhead overnight and will look for them tomorrow when I am fresh and they are hungry...
The two ocellaris clown pairs are fighting over the toadstool. I am afraid we're going to have a casualty or two there...
the black and white pair are quite a bit larger, but the orange and white are defending their coral strongly...
Maybe I need to find another large toadstool, fast !
LL
Update
Just did a walkabout of the fish room. Everything is running perfectly in the overflows and sumps. Did not adjust the skimmer - will wait for the morning to play with that...
One casualty in the move - apparently the purple firefish decided to hide under the wrong rock and was found floating in the old tank. The Yellow Coris and Christmas Wrasses both took to the sand and are hidden in the old tank, which still has about 10" of water and sand.. I decided to leave them in there with a powerhead overnight and will look for them tomorrow when I am fresh and they are hungry...
The two ocellaris clown pairs are fighting over the toadstool. I am afraid we're going to have a casualty or two there...
the black and white pair are quite a bit larger, but the orange and white are defending their coral strongly...
Maybe I need to find another large toadstool, fast !
LL
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Walkabout...
Walkabout...
Ms. LL got her camera out and snapped some photos of the reef after the pumps were started and running... here are a few of her observations...
A few of the zoanthid colonies are opening up...
Some aquascaping and our prized Krytptonite candy cane coral...
A cleaner shrimp waiting for a customer... probably a stressd out Hippo Tang will be first in line...
Not quite back to fighting weight, but coming back after being abused yesterday...
In addition to our Magnificent Foxface Rabbitfish, if you look closely, you can see the Yellow Tang and Sailfin Tang trying to figure out what the heck just happened!
LL
Walkabout...
Ms. LL got her camera out and snapped some photos of the reef after the pumps were started and running... here are a few of her observations...
A few of the zoanthid colonies are opening up...
Some aquascaping and our prized Krytptonite candy cane coral...
A cleaner shrimp waiting for a customer... probably a stressd out Hippo Tang will be first in line...
Not quite back to fighting weight, but coming back after being abused yesterday...
In addition to our Magnificent Foxface Rabbitfish, if you look closely, you can see the Yellow Tang and Sailfin Tang trying to figure out what the heck just happened!
LL
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15347805#post15347805 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
This is a big picture, so you can see the area I've circled.
The drain comes down to the skimmer, and the gate valve dictates the water going into the Deltec. However, above that spot, you can see a Tee fitting. Whatever excess water (and air bubbles) is redirected to the bubble tower in the corner of the sump's skimmer section. The water beneath that gate valve is only water, zero bubbles, which allows the skimmer to run without fluctuation or agitation within the main reaction chamber.
Thanks, Marc for the info. The Orca 250 feed intake is a barb connection connected to a union - a metric size if I'm not mistaken. I'll have to study that for a gate valve application. Several of the local guys use the Orca here - I'll see how they're handling it.
You made a good point about air being in the feed. One local reefer, GregC, already suggested I'm going to want to use a smaller feed tubing to keep air out of the intake... good advice.
LL
Up bright and early this morning... sorted through some crap I took out of the 180G sandbed. Lots of potential frag plugs in there. Waste not, want not.
Took time for a FTS with just the moonlights burning:
I did some tweaking on the desired level in the acrylic sump and marked it with a Sharpie. It will be the desired water height for the Tunze ATO, which is on my project list later this morning.
Melev posted some great ideas for improving the skimmer feed. I'll be looking for a way to add a gate valve to the intake of the Orca. Maybe Reeflo or a plumbing house has a metric valve that will direct fit.
While puttering around cleaning up the fish room, I dialed in the skimmer a little and she starting making some skimmate - not bad , considering there is still very little load in the tank...
The overflows all settled in after I shortened the drain pipes and slightly adjusted the Durso heights. It still sounds like a pleasing water feature to hear the "waterfall" where the tank water drops only an inch into the 36" long overflow. It is comforting to hear it in the fish room; it is not detectable in the display room.
After the lights come on in the 180G, I will go sand sifting to find the two missing wrasses...
So much to do, so little time... :rollface:
LL
Took time for a FTS with just the moonlights burning:
I did some tweaking on the desired level in the acrylic sump and marked it with a Sharpie. It will be the desired water height for the Tunze ATO, which is on my project list later this morning.
Melev posted some great ideas for improving the skimmer feed. I'll be looking for a way to add a gate valve to the intake of the Orca. Maybe Reeflo or a plumbing house has a metric valve that will direct fit.
While puttering around cleaning up the fish room, I dialed in the skimmer a little and she starting making some skimmate - not bad , considering there is still very little load in the tank...
The overflows all settled in after I shortened the drain pipes and slightly adjusted the Durso heights. It still sounds like a pleasing water feature to hear the "waterfall" where the tank water drops only an inch into the 36" long overflow. It is comforting to hear it in the fish room; it is not detectable in the display room.
After the lights come on in the 180G, I will go sand sifting to find the two missing wrasses...
So much to do, so little time... :rollface:
LL
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ReefGuyFergie
New member
Has the fight for the toadstool been settled yet??
Also I was wandering if you would take a full tank shot when the lights come on and post it. The moon lights look awesome by the way.
Also I was wandering if you would take a full tank shot when the lights come on and post it. The moon lights look awesome by the way.
Water Change System
Water Change System
Musings and questions with edand sandy on the construction of their water change system:
********************
Re: water change system
Lightsluvr wrote on 07/09/2009 09:40 AM:
I think I have some 1" slip bulkheads that came with one of our Oceanic sumps - I will just insert the pipe into the bulkhead, so I can remove it later if needed... I plan to have the pipe extend far enough into the tank so it won't be noisy (splish splash) when circulating the saltwater...
Thanks for all the help!
edandsandy wrote on 07/10/2009 07:33 AM:
In our salt mixing tank we have it centered so it moves the salt around, I think Ed used (2) 45 in different directions if that makes since...... in the beginning we had the pipe straight down and all the salt seemed settled in the middle.. This way it moves the salt around the tank.
In the fresh water tank the pipe goes all the way to the bottom as well, because we use that side for the ATO.....
Have you decided if you are going to use an ATO or not???
I think now is a good time to decide......
Lightsluvr wrote on 07/10/2009 08:16 PM:
The two 45's makes sense. How far into the tank did Ed run his pipe before adding the 45s? Near top? Half way? near bottom? Based on my SW mixing, I think a foot or so above the bottom would make sense...
edandsandy wrote on 07/12/2009 11:07 AM:
The first piece of pipe is very short. Then I used a true union. The union can be purchased at Lowes/Homedepot. It is a threaded connection that allows me to remove the pipe for changes and modification - no cutting.... After the union I used a second very short pipe then two 45's to get to the center of the tank and perfectly vertical. I terminated the pipe to within two inches on the bottom of the tank. I discovered that I eliminated the dead spots and noise. The water boils and mixes much better than returning the water to the top of the water column....
Lightsluvr wrote on 07/12/2009 02:10 PM:
So I want the pipe for SW mixing near the bottom, in the center? That's close to the pump intake...I figured it should be a little further away...but I guess not. I'll have to get an extra double union... Do I want to configure the RO/DI ank in the same way, or doesn't it matter?
I already have two double unions, (7) double union valves and the necessary adapters to go from bulkhead to slip fittings... As soon as I get all the fish and coral transferred this weekend, I am going to tackle the water change system!
Answer:
YES!, near the bottom and centered in the SW tank.
You are correct they are close together. The biggest problem we were attempting to resolve was the settling of salt on the bottom.
This design eliminated the problem. We added a medium sized Korilla pump (magnet on the out side of the tank) to increase the water mix process. The Korilla allows you the ability to locate it any where with no plumbing or hardware...It is located mid level and pointed upward - we found this the best setup as it stirred the upper water column and boiled the surface.
I did not use a true union VALVE - just a union coupler. Same part minus the valve- shorter in length and I did not need the valve....
On the RO/DI tank I have two pipes. The first pipe is in the bulkhead and goes to the bottom. On the bottom I tie strapped the ATO sensor (low water sensor). On the out side of the tank on the other side of the bulkhead I put a 3" pipe and a cap. Then
I drilled a hole for the RO fill line.
On a second pipe I ran it to the bottom (1/2" pipe) - I connected a small pump used for the ATO system (tie strapped the cord to the pipe). I did not use a bulk head fitting as it is near the top of the tank and the water is pumped up... Again I highly recommend a union adapter to allow removal to maintain/replace the ATO pump and ATO sensor. The RO/DI tank has a small hole on the side for the RO float sensor.
The water change system will be a piece of cake to assemble compared to the CL system you just connected with NO LEAKS I might add...
Water Change System
Musings and questions with edand sandy on the construction of their water change system:
********************
Re: water change system
Lightsluvr wrote on 07/09/2009 09:40 AM:
I think I have some 1" slip bulkheads that came with one of our Oceanic sumps - I will just insert the pipe into the bulkhead, so I can remove it later if needed... I plan to have the pipe extend far enough into the tank so it won't be noisy (splish splash) when circulating the saltwater...
Thanks for all the help!
edandsandy wrote on 07/10/2009 07:33 AM:
In our salt mixing tank we have it centered so it moves the salt around, I think Ed used (2) 45 in different directions if that makes since...... in the beginning we had the pipe straight down and all the salt seemed settled in the middle.. This way it moves the salt around the tank.
In the fresh water tank the pipe goes all the way to the bottom as well, because we use that side for the ATO.....
Have you decided if you are going to use an ATO or not???
I think now is a good time to decide......
Lightsluvr wrote on 07/10/2009 08:16 PM:
The two 45's makes sense. How far into the tank did Ed run his pipe before adding the 45s? Near top? Half way? near bottom? Based on my SW mixing, I think a foot or so above the bottom would make sense...
edandsandy wrote on 07/12/2009 11:07 AM:
The first piece of pipe is very short. Then I used a true union. The union can be purchased at Lowes/Homedepot. It is a threaded connection that allows me to remove the pipe for changes and modification - no cutting.... After the union I used a second very short pipe then two 45's to get to the center of the tank and perfectly vertical. I terminated the pipe to within two inches on the bottom of the tank. I discovered that I eliminated the dead spots and noise. The water boils and mixes much better than returning the water to the top of the water column....
Lightsluvr wrote on 07/12/2009 02:10 PM:
So I want the pipe for SW mixing near the bottom, in the center? That's close to the pump intake...I figured it should be a little further away...but I guess not. I'll have to get an extra double union... Do I want to configure the RO/DI ank in the same way, or doesn't it matter?
I already have two double unions, (7) double union valves and the necessary adapters to go from bulkhead to slip fittings... As soon as I get all the fish and coral transferred this weekend, I am going to tackle the water change system!
Answer:
YES!, near the bottom and centered in the SW tank.
You are correct they are close together. The biggest problem we were attempting to resolve was the settling of salt on the bottom.
This design eliminated the problem. We added a medium sized Korilla pump (magnet on the out side of the tank) to increase the water mix process. The Korilla allows you the ability to locate it any where with no plumbing or hardware...It is located mid level and pointed upward - we found this the best setup as it stirred the upper water column and boiled the surface.
I did not use a true union VALVE - just a union coupler. Same part minus the valve- shorter in length and I did not need the valve....
On the RO/DI tank I have two pipes. The first pipe is in the bulkhead and goes to the bottom. On the bottom I tie strapped the ATO sensor (low water sensor). On the out side of the tank on the other side of the bulkhead I put a 3" pipe and a cap. Then
I drilled a hole for the RO fill line.
On a second pipe I ran it to the bottom (1/2" pipe) - I connected a small pump used for the ATO system (tie strapped the cord to the pipe). I did not use a bulk head fitting as it is near the top of the tank and the water is pumped up... Again I highly recommend a union adapter to allow removal to maintain/replace the ATO pump and ATO sensor. The RO/DI tank has a small hole on the side for the RO float sensor.
The water change system will be a piece of cake to assemble compared to the CL system you just connected with NO LEAKS I might add...
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I will surely be posting more FTS shots as I add more coral today. I still have 3 (plastic) shoeboxes full of LPS coral to move over. Unfortunately, my LFS is out of Aquamend Epoxy - I don't know if HD or Lowes has something I can use to attach them...I don't dare turn on the closed loop until they're firmly attached... :eek2:
I was watching the clowns this morning - all four were swimming around the toadstool... I didn't see any signs of aggression... maybe they held a summit and decided who would get "Gaza"... or, maybe they got tired of nipping each other's fins... :strooper:
I notice that you're in law enforcement in Lubbock. My older son is a Sgt. with the Addison, TX P.D. In fact, he spent the weekend with us and helped out with the tank.
LL
ReefGuyFergie
New member
Good! Hopefully they are done fighting and not just taking a break, lol. Buying a second one would help too I bet.
I do work for the county here. I am trying to get on with the Plano PD and move to the Dallas area. Hopefully that will work out! I graduate a Local Peace Officer Academy in August so maybe that will help me get on with Plano.
I do work for the county here. I am trying to get on with the Plano PD and move to the Dallas area. Hopefully that will work out! I graduate a Local Peace Officer Academy in August so maybe that will help me get on with Plano.
Here is a full tank shot with all T5s running...
LL
Aquascaping...
Aquascaping...
Primary goal of the aquascaping was to provide a platform for our corals, maintain the open appearance we attained in our 180G reef, all while camouflagimg the closed loop strainers and returns...
While there may be some fine-tuning of the aquascaping over time, we think we accomplished our goals...We put a FTS in the previous post. Here are some photos of the 'scaping...
The right island:
The center:
The left island:
LL
Aquascaping...
Primary goal of the aquascaping was to provide a platform for our corals, maintain the open appearance we attained in our 180G reef, all while camouflagimg the closed loop strainers and returns...
While there may be some fine-tuning of the aquascaping over time, we think we accomplished our goals...We put a FTS in the previous post. Here are some photos of the 'scaping...
The right island:
The center:
The left island:
LL
Fish and coral pics
Fish and coral pics
Here are some random shots of our fish and coral...
LL
Fish and coral pics
Here are some random shots of our fish and coral...
LL
Toolguy942
New member
Home Depot carries Aquamend in the paint dept where the other adhesives are located
What a difference a day makes...
What a difference a day makes...
Here is a blastomussa coral a few hours after being moved...
...and here it is today - after 24 hours...
Happy, happy.
LL
What a difference a day makes...
Here is a blastomussa coral a few hours after being moved...
...and here it is today - after 24 hours...
Happy, happy.
LL
Awesome...I'll head that way... need to anchor some coral before I dare turn on the closed loop...
Thanks!
LL
A good question...
A good question...
Somebody asked me about those vertical "columns" in the background of our tank...
My answer is:
1.) the clear overflow structure, allowing a peek at the Dursos, standpipe and returns... OR
2.) The Lost City of Atlantis...
LL
A good question...
Somebody asked me about those vertical "columns" in the background of our tank...
My answer is:
1.) the clear overflow structure, allowing a peek at the Dursos, standpipe and returns... OR
2.) The Lost City of Atlantis...
LL
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