Look What Reeflux Bulbs Have Done

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11851546#post11851546 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by t5Nitro
Do you guys think the 250w DE 14k phoenix is better than the 250w DE 12k Reeflux or no?

Can't comment on the 250W, but I am running both a 150W 12K Reeflux and a 14K Phoenix on my tank right now and the difference is very noticable. I like the Phoenix, but it is very blue. The Reeflux 12K is mostly white with just a touch of blue where 10Ks tend to look yellowish. The SPS under the look much better under the 12K than the 14K, for sure.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11849568#post11849568 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BLKTANG
are you using supplements? Can i see pics of your tank?I just got my Ushio 10k's & they are wayyyyyyyyyy to yellow.

Only supplement is a nightly Kalk drip. It's not as obvious in the photo as it is in person, but the 14K Phoenix is on the left, 12K Reeflux on the right. (150W)

IMG_1825.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11860264#post11860264 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by seapug
Only supplement is a nightly Kalk drip. It's not as obvious in the photo as it is in person, but the 14K Phoenix is on the left, 12K Reeflux on the right. (150W)

IMG_1825.jpg

I can't see too much of a difference :confused:
 
I run 3 250w Reeflux 12ks in Lumenbright reflector powered by CoralVue electronic ballasts. Couldn't be happier. The 250 12ks are giving plenty of light over my 180gal.
DSCN2736.jpg


tangs.jpg
 
I have ran xm 20k for the longest time and love them. I recently decided to try the reeflux 12k out. All I cansay is WOW tey look identical to the xm's just brighter and has better PAR. I have 400wers on IC electronic ballasts
 
Dunno if anyone cares, but this is a side-by-side of a Reeflux 12k 250w on a Coralvue electronic on the left, 10k XM 250w on a new-style IceCap electronic on the right, both are in Luminarc Mini reflectors, the night I installed them. I've got VHOs, but they're not on in the picture, and I broke them the night of that picture, and have yet to repair them.

I like the more realistic shallow water look of XM 10ks, and the VHO actinic usually give enough supplement to help color up the corals in the purple/blue spectrum. The XM 10ks give a ton of orange, pink, and red colors to the corals, as well as a bit of lighter green too.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/EricDKlein/FTS/photo#5161743080413670066"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/EricDKlein/R6Ix-8njKrI/AAAAAAAAAUA/v8HS1bqYqvI/s800/DSC_0403.jpg" /></a>
 
To be perfectly honest, I havn't a clue. What difference would it make? I've read either in RK magazine or in advanced aquarist, or some other relatively respectable publication that the nipple orientation shouldn't matter, that's why I never bothered to take notice, though I know many people do notice those things and try to set them up appropriately.

Also, I couldn't adjust the nipple, or notice it, because even when I cut a hole in my hood for the LAs to fit through, the rims were so close to the water that I couldn't see under them. It was hard enough to even see that there was a bulb there, and installing the bulbs without taking the hood off was difficult enough.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11967497#post11967497 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefWreak
To be perfectly honest, I havn't a clue. What difference would it make? I've read either in RK magazine or in advanced aquarist, or some other relatively respectable publication that the nipple orientation shouldn't matter, that's why I never bothered to take notice, though I know many people do notice those things and try to set them up appropriately.
David at Coralvue says it makes a difference. He is pretty good at answering emails if you want to hear it directly from him. With my reeflux 10k's he said the nipple should be between the 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions.
 
He also told me the same thing for the 12k version 12-3 o'clock position. He said that is the ONLY position to get there TRUE coloration
 
During the manufacturing of the bulb, a nipple is formed on the arc tube. The arc tube is found in the center of the metal halide bulb, inside the outer glass tube. This nipple should be facing upwards between the 12 o'clock and 2 o'clock position. It is the little pertrusion that extends outside of the glass tube.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11968197#post11968197 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JRaquatics
During the manufacturing of the bulb, a nipple is formed on the arc tube. The arc tube is found in the center of the metal halide bulb, inside the outer glass tube. This nipple should be facing upwards between the 12 o'clock and 2 o'clock position. It is the little pertrusion that extends outside of the glass tube.

Thanks that makes sense,i'm off to take a look then ;)
 
I'm really intrigued by this idea of the nipple orientation changing the colors and such, because I had always been under the impression that it never mattered, and no one has come forward with a manufacturer suggesting a specific orientation before, to my knowledge.

I went through the LB thread for the umpteenth time, and did notice where the orientation was mentioned a few times, but there were no comparison shots that I saw, and not much comparison of color in experiences, just suggesting the way to run it.

What this makes me wonder though, is whether the other manufacturer's bulbs really don't make a difference in orientation, or whether they've just never bothered to tell the hobbyists about it, or never thought it was important, even if it did make a difference one way or another.... Hmmmm.....
 
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