Lots of talk here lately about Chloramines in our water

I just recently ordered a B&A TDS meter and cholrimine block/catalytic carbon in response to this thread.

Called BRS - who told me to take out the carbon blocks currently in the unit, so now:

sediment --> Chlorimine --> Catalytic carbon --> Membrane --> DI resin

but now I'm getting after membrane TDS of 9 and after DI TDS of 14?

before the switch I was getting after membrane TDS of 0 and after DI of 02.

My resin is still blue and less than 3 months old.

I'm starting to thing BRS' advice might not have been correct - as for me I'm a self-admitted RODI dunce.
 
I just recently ordered a B&A TDS meter and cholrimine block/catalytic carbon in response to this thread.

Called BRS - who told me to take out the carbon blocks currently in the unit, so now:

sediment --> Chlorimine --> Catalytic carbon --> Membrane --> DI resin

but now I'm getting after membrane TDS of 9 and after DI TDS of 14?

before the switch I was getting after membrane TDS of 0 and after DI of 02.

My resin is still blue and less than 3 months old.

I'm starting to thing BRS' advice might not have been correct - as for me I'm a self-admitted RODI dunce.

Don't know if it makes a difference but the catalytic carbon suppose to be before the cholrimine filter. Also you have to make sure you flush the catalytic carbon before it goes into the next stage. When installing mines I left the 3 stage canister off and let it flush right out
 
I bought a pressure gauge because I'm thinking about upgrading my RODi and I wanted to see if I needed a booster pump. First I installed it on the line that is connected to the sink to check the house pressure.
<a href="http://s1324.photobucket.com/user/crackem/media/193D325A-A5DF-4344-9C89-2F2F893170FD_zps0katmcco.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u613/crackem/193D325A-A5DF-4344-9C89-2F2F893170FD_zps0katmcco.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 193D325A-A5DF-4344-9C89-2F2F893170FD_zps0katmcco.jpg"/></a>

Second I removed it since I had already installed a quick shutoff valve there and I moved the gauge to the line that goes into my RO membrane.

<a href="http://s1324.photobucket.com/user/crackem/media/7998087D-016A-415A-AC30-AD1B7D12BD75_zpsydcrhvbp.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u613/crackem/7998087D-016A-415A-AC30-AD1B7D12BD75_zpsydcrhvbp.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 7998087D-016A-415A-AC30-AD1B7D12BD75_zpsydcrhvbp.jpg"/></a>

I'm not even sure if these were the right places to check pressure and for some reason both readings were pretty much exactly the same even with the water running, from the sink or with the RODi turned on. I did not notice a drop in pressure.
Did I do something wrong here? My pressure appears to be constantly over 70 and basically at like 75-76. I did notice that it was at 0 when the RO is not running but if I open the valve to let water out it goes to 76.

Does this mean I don't need a booster pump?

Your pressure is very good at 75 psi no need for a booster with a single or dual membrane.

Jim
 
so what I'm reading is if our tap pH is 8+ RODI won't remove the chloramines

I'm just not sure how thousands of reefers could be using rodi systems in districts that use chloramines and not report a problem growing corals.
I personally found out that I was running an RODI in los angeles without a problem for years. Not sure what the ph of the water there is tho.

After moving here I went so far as to redesign my RODI system and invest $ into it for what seems to have been no real effect.

Honestly I'm ready to throw up my hands and just get ocean water.
 
I'm just not sure how thousands of reefers could be using rodi systems in districts that use chloramines and not report a problem growing corals.

+ 1 - good point. We see the same issue in Tampa - a few users report tank crashes due to chloramines (or a switch to chloramines). Others do not.

In most cases - those that are most severly affected by Chloramines are due to maintenace issues (replacing filters) or quality (using sub-standard materials).

Lets say they skimp on the sediment filter and go upwards of 5 microns - this lets through too much suspended solids which clogs up the first carbon filter - reducing it's effectiveness at breaking the chloramine apart.

From another board having a similar discussion - this other user (AzDesertRat) is a water treatment worker I think

The design of the components from start to finish makes all the difference in the world. Better filters remove things ahead of the membrane so it does not have to work as hard, lasts longer and works better. Better RO membranes that have been specially treated with a proprietary process then hand tested and in some units gauranteed to be better than 98% rejection or their new hand tested 99+% rejection rate versions rather than dry, untested off the shelf and you get what you get membranes. Then the custom blend every ounce of their DI resins in house based on tens of thousands of hours of bench and real world beta testing so it is only the best for our use then vacuum sealed in mylar foil bags to guarantee its freshness.
 
I use the BRS RO/DI with the built in Chloramine filter. It works well for me. I know typical sediment comes up with the TDS but does Chloramine register through TDS? Not sure as I remember learning that all of those chemicals do come in particulates.
 
Yes - chloramine is an ionic compund (not covalent) so it should show up in a TDS measurement. A TDS measurement is a measurement of the conductivity of a solution. When you talk about particulate - your taking more about a turbidity measurement.

The problem is - your TDS only (usually) measures to 0 PPM. You could still have 0.4 PPM of Chloramine and a false sense of security becaue the TDS measurement is reading zero.

The best way to determine if you have chloramine in your output water is to get the "free chlorine" test kit from Spectrapure (it's not free! - it measures "free chlorine").

http://spectrapure.com/AQUARIUM/WATER-TESTING/Chem-Test-Kits/Total-Chlorine-Test-Kit-w-10-tablets

I'm just not sure how thousands of reefers could be using rodi systems in districts that use chloramines and not report a problem growing corals.

Here's another point to Reefers4U. Ask your LFS how they are filtering the water they sell. I'll betcha they aren't using chloramine blocks or pre-acidified vats. I would also think they would be much more liable if they were getting ammonia in their water they are selling to reefers (and taking the proper steps through economical means to eliminate that ammonia).

The LFS are pretty much using the same water as you are - if it's all municipal.
 
As a temporary fix can I just add some Prime to my RO container to remove the chloramines before I make my salt water?
 
I just feel safer running catalytic carbon and a chlorplus block before my ro membrane because chlorine and chloramine cause the membrane to foul and deteriorate quicker
 
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