Lucas's 20g nano

Looks really good

Looks really good

Wish I were as good at scaping as a lot of people here are. I then to go for a pile. You all go for art. I'm envious.
 
Hopefully a bunch of people chime in on this. I would like as many opinions as possible.
So I am kind of second guessing my mp10 purchase. I know this is an amazing power head but I have seen three tanks now that have cracked with mp10's on them. One tank was a nuvo 24 or something like that. If I were to have my tank cracked it would put me out of the hobby until atleast after college. So I am a little scared to put my mp10 on my tank. Does anyone have experience with this or have any opinions?
 
As long as you're using shims, I don't know why it would crack a tank. Mine don't vibrate at all, there's almost no heat, if they're properly set up, I don't know why it would crack a tank.

That being said, nanos, especially bowfront single-3-sided-pane tanks like these biocubes have had a history of cracking. The original 24g biopods had some serious problems with cracking out of nowhere.

If you're concerned, don't do it. Not the end of the world. But if the pumps aren't warm at all, and if you have a shim, and there's no vibration, why would tanks be more prone to crack?
 
Hopefully a bunch of people chime in on this. I would like as many opinions as possible.
So I am kind of second guessing my mp10 purchase. I know this is an amazing power head but I have seen three tanks now that have cracked with mp10's on them. One tank was a nuvo 24 or something like that. If I were to have my tank cracked it would put me out of the hobby until atleast after college. So I am a little scared to put my mp10 on my tank. Does anyone have experience with this or have any opinions?

I heard of these Nuvos cracking with MP10's is why I haven't put one either. I have enough flow for monti caps and my Aussie Highlighter SPS coral is doing well to with my upgraded return pump. It doesn't create tons of flow but it's good enough to blow the polyps around being such a small tank. The spin stream nozzles generate a wave like flow in the and that hits almost everywhere I don't see any dead spots.
 
Mine has a bit of heat on the outside.

Mine has a bit of heat on the outside.

I'm not using a shim.......directions said with my thickness of glass I shouldn't. Vibration hasn't been a big deal.......I can't even tell the pump is on unless everything else is off.
 
Ken.

Ken.

I have heard all this craziness about nuvos cracking as well and with mp10's on them. I did a lot of research last night like a lot haha. The nuvo 20's arent cracking, the nuvo 16s and 24s are cracking. I have also heard of the jbj45's too cracking a lot. After all my research it came down to all those tanks use one piece of glass and they bend the glass for the curved edges. I guess that makes a really weak tank. Most of all all the cracks were by or on the curved edges. So I think I am going to run the mp10 that I got !
Thanks reefwreak and Chicago for chiming In! You guys have been helpful!
 
Need some opinions.

Need some opinions.

Here I am with another beginner question lol, everyone has been extremely helpful so I hope I get good feedback with this question.

So... At the moment I have six corals in my sand bed. Two of the six are acans that I am going to keep on the sand bed. So I want to find some spots for my hammer, frogspawn, torch and candy cane. I don't have holes big enough in my rock to put the plugs into so I will super gluing them to my rock work.

Can anyone offer advice or opinions on placement?
 
Well, I'm lazy

Well, I'm lazy

I've always kept frogspawn on the sand. As for the others, are you going for some SPS? If so, they'd be your top to mid, with the LPS mid. Iirc, you've got solid lighting for that. Just think ahead, since once you fix them, you've got to move rocks. But this is just me.......am sure others have favorite places.

If you haven't, I'd recommend looking back through the propagation thread. I've used a method I saw there (I think) that works pretty well using epoxy and super glue. Clip the frag post down to about a quarter inch, super glue epoxy to the frag, then put super glue on the epoxy and stick it on the rock. You need to work fairly quickly so the epoxy doesn't cure before you get it to the rock. So far, I've been keeping the frags free until I see that they like a certain place in the tank, then fixing them to the rock.
 
On things like a torch or frogspawn, I usually epoxy their skeleton base to my rockwork somewhere. You can do the same with frag plugs if desired, no harm there. As ReefinChicago mentioned, it helps to superglue the frag or plug to the epoxy, then superglue the epoxy to the rockwork, then press them to fill in the gaps.

I still have a few LPS in my sand bed in the shadows, because they didn't do well in full-brightness light in the rockwork
 
As luck would have it, the week I'm on vacation my bubble tip anenome starts to move! It has been in the same spot for 2 months. hopefully it doesn't take out too many corals
 
New Clam

New Clam

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As I said the other day, I got a new maxima clam. here is a nice picture of it!
 
Making progression

Making progression

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For those of you that have been following along, I moved my frogspawn from the sand to my rockwork finally! It seems to like its new position.
 
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