Lunchbucket's 48"x48"x20" Reef

The link Jonathan posted looked like the can was light blue. I've glued SpaFlex to rigid PVC fittings in the past, and I think my can was red. It should state on the labels at our store what each kind does so that you can find the matching one.

It looks so nice; I'm glad you finally are nearing the end of this particular journey and can soon add livestock.
 
Thanks guys.

tacocat - yes I have the rubber mat that you sent but want to make sure it won't vibrate and thought I'd put a layer or two of yoga mat under it also. Not sure how I'll attach it all together so it doesn't move around.

You beveled all the joints?? What did you use

I'll get the flexible glue for the flex joints.

I think I'm going to use the teflon paste on all my threaded joints. I have used this in the past and you get a nice leak free joint but it can be a little messy when redoing parts. What do you guys think? I think that the paste will give me a better chance of a leakfree joint then the tape

Lunchbucket
 
Eric,

Looks great man! I'm impressed and jealous!

I've never used or seen the paste, I've always used the tape and not had issues unless I went light on the tape.

Regarding the spaflex glue....I dont know if you remember or not, but my 58 gallon had two returns from the OM unit going into and coming out of the overflow box. I glued unions to the spaflex coming off the OM unit and going down to the overflow box. I just used regular clear oatey's pvc cement. Zero issues with that set up over the 2.5 years it was in operation. And towards the end I started having fairly regular issues with my OM unit binding up and had to disconnect the unions frequently.

Just my experinances...

Nick
 
Ahh this plumbing is getting to me now :( I can't find anything I like really well. It is 1:50am and I'm off to bed. Work on it tomorrow and I hope to find something that works well

Lunchbucket
 
Use the teflon paste on those threaded connections, Eric. It'll work out great. I apply the paste so that it fills the threads completely all the way around the fitting, then screw it in snugly.
 
My threads were leaking so I actually used silicon; no more leaks now :) Someone also mentioned the pink tape instead of the white tape.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12516168#post12516168 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Use the teflon paste on those threaded connections, Eric. It'll work out great. I apply the paste so that it fills the threads completely all the way around the fitting, then screw it in snugly.

That is the plan, I think. Out of the bulkheads where there might be some pressure I'll use the paste and out of the OM or the pumps I'm thinking tape? Or should I just use the paste there too. With paste NOTHING gets by it

RGibson - Yellow tape and paste...why both?

Ok got to mocking up the plumbing and here is what I have. All pipes are color codes so that you can see where they go, hope the image is big enough. I have not glued anything and NO flex PVC is dry fit in yet. I'll cut that after I glue and let the other stuff dry as not to put any force on newly glued joints.
rear_view_color_coded.JPG


Top down will show all the holes and routes better
top_down.JPG


This shows how much room I have between the back wall of the room and the pump...quite a bit about 2ft IIRC.
room_behind_pump.JPG


Two questions. I have hard PVC pipe in all of these pieces for stability should I replace it w/ all flex or leave it?

#2 - I just looked at my PVC and it says Sched 40 NSW and DWV on it for vent and drainage only. After the DWV fiasco did I grab the wrong pipe is does all Sched 40 pipe say this?

Lunchbucket
 
I put ball valves on each "out" of the 4-way om. The closer to the om the better. I am glad I did because the smallest grain of sand and the om won't turn and it has to be taken apart. It is amazing how much water is in the lines even with the ball valves. Without it I would have 3 -4 gallons in the pipes.

Bart
 
I thought of this too but that would be another 4 BV's. I didn't want the expense and hence I put the unions. I will drain the pump from the front drain or drain the pipes via a union. Just a cost cutter IMO. I have the DUBV's right next to the unions incase I need to undo the plumbing and don't want the tank to drain. I could switch the Unions and BV's around but then they are farther from the source (tank).

Also, I wouldn't have room for any pipe if I put more BV's on there :D

So am I good to glue? Right pipe?

Lunchbucket
 
I think he's suggesting you swap them and put the ball valves on the OM uprights and the unions up near the bulkheads. I don't think it makes a big difference. <b>If you had to remove the plumbing up at the union</b> (near the bulkhead), I would screw in some solid plugs inside the tank (flange side) to stop any water from coming out of the bulkhead. I hope that makes sense.

I think the yellow teflon tape is for gas connections, like natural gas and propane.
 
I can understand the extra $$ for ball valves, how about putting the pump on a stand, even if it is only 6" off the ground you could put a T on the input of the pump with only 1 additional ball valve that way you could at least catch all the water in the line if the om has to be serviced.

Bart
 
Even better, you could make that a short pan/tray with a bulkhead that drains into the sump.

Then if you had to work on anything, turn off the closed loop pump, lay a thick folded towel over the pump (or wrap it with plastic) to protect it some and unscrew the fittings. Water would pour into the tray and drain into the sump.

Great idea, Bart!
 
Back
Top