Lunchbucket's 48"x48"x20" Reef

[huge1day]

Marc you would not have to have the "drain". Just have the T with a ball valve that would shut off until you wanted to drain the pipes. You could run pvc from the ball valve to the sump if you wanted, the pump would have to be higher than the sump, not just 6" off the floor...

I have had to take my om apart at least 6 times. If I could drain all of the water out of the lines instead of opening at the union where all the water goes on the floor...it would have meant less wet towel full of saltwater...

Bart

 

[Lunchbucket]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12518661#post12518661 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I think he's suggesting you swap them and put the ball valves on the OM uprights and the unions up near the bulkheads. I don't think it makes a big difference. <b>If you had to remove the plumbing up at the union</b> (near the bulkhead), I would screw in some solid plugs inside the tank (flange side) to stop any water from coming out of the bulkhead. I hope that makes sense.

I think the yellow teflon tape is for gas connections, like natural gas and propane.

I thought of that too, just putting an slip plug inside the tank to make sure no water comes out

I think that w/ how tight the plumbing is by the OM that the BV's up top by the bulkheads works better.

The front of the sequence pump has a flat handled plug thingy on the bottom of the pump. I could thread a 1/2" (or whatever size fits) John Guest valve. It would be shut off when I didn't need to drain the lines and could be turned open and the water weight in the lines would drain it. I could run some RO tubing to a pitcher to drain and dump into sump. I saw someone do this on RC one time. Or I could use a 1/2" BV either way it would be easy to drain!

Am I correct that this is the right PVC? Not sure why I'm 2nd guessing myself but since all the fittings were wrong the 1st time I better double check

Lunchbucket

 

[huge1day]

If you put a drain like I said you don't ever have to put your hand in the tank

 

[Lunchbucket]

Yep, will do

 

[Lunchbucket]

Done

Lunchbucket

 

[Lunchbucket]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12518917#post12518917 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lunchbucket
Am I correct that this is the right PVC? Not sure why I'm 2nd guessing myself but since all the fittings were wrong the 1st time I better double check

Lunchbucket

Anyone? I'd like to start gluing

Lunchbucket

 

[kau_cinta_ku]

wow tank is comming along very nicely, sorry haven't been posting much in this thread as I am still new to large tanks .

as for the PVC that is the same stuff I have on my 75 gal. and never had a prob. with it.

 

[huge1day]

I think it looks good. Get out the glue.

 

[Lunchbucket]

I just didn't know since it said:

PVC-1120 Sch .40 PR.330 PST @ 73F [ASTM D-1785 NSF-pw]

Then is says

PVC-DWV Sch.40 [ASTM D-2665] NSF=dwv

I just got confused because of the DWV on the pipe.

Thanks
Lunchbucket

 

[erics3000]

Looks good..You can always add ball valves later. I bought them and never installed them. I like the drain on the pump. Are you going to have any flow coming form the bottom?

 

[melev]

I still think you should move the gray ballvalves to the upright sections where you have the unions. That way all four valves are in the same area of reach, and it will look more streamlined. You still have plenty of room to access the drum.

I don't know the answer to your PVC question. If it is Schedule 40, that's usually all that matters. That is the proper thickness.

 

[Lunchbucket]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12519561#post12519561 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by erics3000
Looks good..You can always add ball valves later. I bought them and never installed them. I like the drain on the pump. Are you going to have any flow coming form the bottom?

Add valves....umm...no way!! Once it is plumbed I don't touch it unless absolutely needed!!

Flow from the bottom? You mean in the tank?

There are 6holes in the back

The bottom left and bottom right (outsides) are outlets from the barracuda pump. The bottom inner holes (left and right closest to the overflow on the bottom) are inlets for them CL pump (barracuda) and the top holes are outlets from the pump. 4 outlets 2 inlets

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12519673#post12519673 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I still think you should move the gray ballvalves to the upright sections where you have the unions. That way all four valves are in the same area of reach, and it will look more streamlined. You still have plenty of room to access the drum.

I don't know the answer to your PVC question. If it is Schedule 40, that's usually all that matters. That is the proper thickness.

Hmm...I guess that is a good point all in one point and easy to shut off in a hurry. Also, it will make getting the plumbing lined up easier. Since I have 90's (2x45's) and screw in fittings it would be hard to make sure that the screw in fittings are tight while lining up the 90's correctly. Having the Unions right off of the bulkheads (after the screw in fittings) allows me to spin them anyway but have the screw fitting tight since I can tighten the union at any point. Might actually work out better!

I'll try to piece it out and see how it fits. Might have to do a street 90 out of the OM on a few of the outlets instead of a nice 90 (made from 2 45's) to get it to fit right....we'll see.

Lunchbucket

 

[melev]

Eric, leave the 45s coming out of the OM. It looks great that way. Put the DUBV next, exactly where you have those unions now. Each ballvalve points upward. Then continue as you wish. Spaflex from the DUBV would be sweet.

 

[Bax]

Nice job on the CL.

Another BIG step forward!

 

[Lunchbucket]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12521277#post12521277 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Eric, leave the 45s coming out of the OM. It looks great that way. Put the DUBV next, exactly where you have those unions now. Each ballvalve points upward. Then continue as you wish. Spaflex from the DUBV would be sweet.

I'll try that. I mocked up one side w/ the Union right out of the bulkhead and it was a little longer than just the 90 (made from 45's) so it pushed all my plumbing out a little more. Maybe 2" or so. I'll see if I can make it up or rearrange some of the outlets to make it work. Guess spaflex will take up a lot of it being off but I do want to keep as much pressure off of the plumbing as possible.

marc I remember you saying to put the spaflex in the oven to make it more pliable. What temp and how long again?

Bax - Thanks man. It will be nice to be done w/ this step. Plumbing is a big one IMO.

I'll see what I can mock up tonight.
Lunchbucket

 

[Lunchbucket]

Too busy tonight to do anything w/ the tank. Got home late from work, eat, exercise dog, mow lawn, weed eat, do dishes, and now wind down and got to bed. Up at 5:30am

Later this week I think we are going to put new windows in and reside my house Glad I train about 30+ high school kids every summer to pay for my house updates

Lunchbucket

 

[melev]

Heating SpaFlex - 5 mins at 200 F.

 

[Lunchbucket]

Thanks buddy....you are full of it.......answers that is

Lunchbucket

 

[melev]

That's probably true. :lol:

 

[Lunchbucket]

Man I HOPE that you can come see the tank when it is up and running

Lunchbucket