Wow, thanks Guys!
Typhon,
yes, lets hope for everyone one`s safety... that the reactor keeps up
.
Tigger,
Yes the base was mdf coated with the same epoxies as the skimmer...just tinted black.
The end result for the windows ,(not the first one) was 1/2 clear plexi.
Plexi was the best for this because i was able to build the window to actually hug the channel on the body of the skimmer and strengthen it all up at its weakest points.
This gave me over 2" total of silicone seam width, and gave this windowed area the strength it needed.
I would change it up abit on my next one....(DOH! did i just say that?)
Matt, Sorry, i just grasped your question properly now i think.
Yes, the base was built 3/4" taller than the lowest fittings, so none was being pushed on.
Actually, i have pretty short, and most unflexible arms...lol.
But all i did was tack it together, than place it back in the mold, cut out the windows so i could do the final interior lay up`s of fiberglass.
Like so,
Chris, well i guess im a machine that bleeds a hella lot when doing DIY.
The body wall thickness were an unknown for me when building...i would guess at an average of 4 ml. with the base and edges 5-6.
The body flange was actually poured with fiberglass shavings to a 1/2", to match an upper pvc flange of the same thickness.
I carefully watched for any flex during wet testing, the poor spot was the window area where a lighter fiberglass was needed to conform to the shapes.
This is why the windows needed the extra work.
But i would build the next thicker, to be a bit more forgiving of any damage.(doh..i said it again! )
All in all i used 2.8 gallons of epoxies.
Marc.
Typhon,
yes, lets hope for everyone one`s safety... that the reactor keeps up
.Tigger,
Yes the base was mdf coated with the same epoxies as the skimmer...just tinted black.
The end result for the windows ,(not the first one) was 1/2 clear plexi.
Plexi was the best for this because i was able to build the window to actually hug the channel on the body of the skimmer and strengthen it all up at its weakest points.
This gave me over 2" total of silicone seam width, and gave this windowed area the strength it needed.
I would change it up abit on my next one....(DOH! did i just say that?)
Matt, Sorry, i just grasped your question properly now i think.
Yes, the base was built 3/4" taller than the lowest fittings, so none was being pushed on.
Actually, i have pretty short, and most unflexible arms...lol.
But all i did was tack it together, than place it back in the mold, cut out the windows so i could do the final interior lay up`s of fiberglass.
Like so,
Chris, well i guess im a machine that bleeds a hella lot when doing DIY.
The body wall thickness were an unknown for me when building...i would guess at an average of 4 ml. with the base and edges 5-6.
The body flange was actually poured with fiberglass shavings to a 1/2", to match an upper pvc flange of the same thickness.
I carefully watched for any flex during wet testing, the poor spot was the window area where a lighter fiberglass was needed to conform to the shapes.
This is why the windows needed the extra work.
But i would build the next thicker, to be a bit more forgiving of any damage.(doh..i said it again! )
All in all i used 2.8 gallons of epoxies.
Marc.
, but hopefully it will help somebody. 
