Diana A
Member
I have three of these light over my tank. What do you mean by daisy chaining them? Can you show me a photo of what you mean please? Thank you!
Mars Aqua Chinese LED review (Ebay)
- Thread starter Atomic081
- Start date
I have three of these light over my tank. What do you mean by daisy chaining them? Can you show me a photo of what you mean please? Thank you!
Has anyone changes any of the blue leds ?
I have 5 420nm leds spare and was thinking of changing some of the ones on the blue channel to get a more purple look but am a bit worried about getting a patchwork of blue and purple sections.
(Have already removed lenses to help even out the spread)
I have 5 420nm leds spare and was thinking of changing some of the ones on the blue channel to get a more purple look but am a bit worried about getting a patchwork of blue and purple sections.
(Have already removed lenses to help even out the spread)
Well I stuck 5 in, the difference is barely visible in real life (unlike the pic below) so hopefully it'll just subtlety less BLUE before the whites come on.
I also swapped the reds for a bridgelux 20K Deep Aqua and a 30K indiglo
Need to decide what to replace the greens with, I have a 6500K and a 395nm UV, are either of those worth using?
garygonzales
Member
yep yep
I asked this and was told to search eBay myself...
Atomic081
Member
So after 2 years, my first ever MarsAqua 165w pooped out on me. I started this thread 2 years ago almost to the day. The Blue side stopped working. Im not sure why and i had a backup so im not gonna take it apart. Whats everyone elses opinion on the life of these? Im disappointed in 2 years, was hoping for more like 4 and would be thrilled with 5 years.
I also had the actual LEDs burn out of my reefbreeders that were 4 years old. They were 3x the cost of these, so.....
Also was thinking about putting 8 of the 300w over a 1200 gallon system thats 30" deep. I see no problem with 30" but other people said "You need Metal Halide".
I also had the actual LEDs burn out of my reefbreeders that were 4 years old. They were 3x the cost of these, so.....
Also was thinking about putting 8 of the 300w over a 1200 gallon system thats 30" deep. I see no problem with 30" but other people said "You need Metal Halide".
Randyp79
Member
You can buy a whole new light every two years for what it costs a t5 user to change bulbs every six months.
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Cool, thanks
Yep, from eBay bud.
I searched for bridgestar epistar turn scrolled down until I found some not mounted on stars.
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reeferfoxx
New member
This is my Populargrow 165w wifi (modified) with 385-395nmUV, 420nm, 460nm, 650nm(red), 3000k, 6500k, 10,000-15,000k, 20,000-25,000k, LEDs. With 120°(clear), 90°(clear), and 90°(beaded) lenses.
My other stock Mars Aqua 165w at 12" above waterline has lux value of 75,000 lux on the surface @ 100%white/100%blue.
(modified)Populargrow is now sporting 82,000 lux at 12" above waterline on the surface.
reeferfoxx
New member
Oops..lol
@Atomic081 - sounds like a power supply pooped out. I'd trouble shoot by opening tbe box and swapping the power supply connecters to see. Happened to me with one of mine shortly after purchase. Theyll probably set you up with a replacement pretty cheap.
I've been using mine for about a year and a half now over a 300. After reviewing a Dana Riddle video from MACNA 2016, decided to check PAR yesterday. Lowered intensity (white channel) from 500 at sand bed (about 27" water depth, lights about 8" above the water) down to about 250-300.
Might have to drop a little further, even though all the coral have acclimated, I'm going for a bit more growth and some different growth forms.
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I've been using mine for about a year and a half now over a 300. After reviewing a Dana Riddle video from MACNA 2016, decided to check PAR yesterday. Lowered intensity (white channel) from 500 at sand bed (about 27" water depth, lights about 8" above the water) down to about 250-300.
Might have to drop a little further, even though all the coral have acclimated, I'm going for a bit more growth and some different growth forms.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Oh, and for any doubters, please use a PAR meter when initially setting these up. I have successfully bleached out acropora on the bottom of my 300...at about 24-27" water depth. If you are looking for maximum growth (and not photo - inhibition stunted growth with reflective pigmentation), shoot for a PAR of about 200-300. Mark those settings on the fixture controls, and try not to exceed them. Then start at about 50% of that mark and ramp up 10-20% a week until you hit those settings. The white channel will affect the PAR results the most, and allows you to maintain high blue/violet.
Just a little return after a bit over 18 months of use of four 300w versions of these (slightly customized with additional violet replacing white LEDs) along with a couple 185w galaxy hydro covering each end and some Kessils interspersed. If I get to a keyboard today I'll post a pic or two of the reef.
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Just a little return after a bit over 18 months of use of four 300w versions of these (slightly customized with additional violet replacing white LEDs) along with a couple 185w galaxy hydro covering each end and some Kessils interspersed. If I get to a keyboard today I'll post a pic or two of the reef.
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reeferfoxx
New member
How much was your par meter?
This is my Populargrow 165w wifi (modified) with 385-395nmUV, 420nm, 460nm, 650nm(red), 3000k, 6500k, 10,000-15,000k, 20,000-25,000k, LEDs. With 120°(clear), 90°(clear), and 90°(beaded) lenses.
My other stock Mars Aqua 165w at 12" above waterline has lux value of 75,000 lux on the surface @ 100%white/100%blue.
(modified)Populargrow is now sporting 82,000 lux at 12" above waterline on the surface.
Where did you find the UV LEDs?
@reeferfoxx - I'm using a BioTek Marine 3000; it ran $195.00 when I picked it up. Get to do a little math with the older software (multiply by 1.08 or somesuch) if you want to increase accuracy. As I'm usually looking for generalities, I'm not too concerned with that. I've just check Apogee's site (the manufacturer of the sensor and the code), and apparently there's a firmware and software update for these, so I'll be putting that on my list of fun things to do today.
Cheers,
Ray
Cheers,
Ray
Okay, I promised a few pics today if I got near a keyboard...now if I could only remember how to type I'd be in good shape. Apologies up front for my acute lack of photography skills with my phone's camera.
Dec2015. Reef a couple months after I installed the MarsAqua 300w fixtures.
*A note about this installation. This aquarium is a walk-around, and the reef is built diagonally from the left rear of this photo to the right front, and I needed to provide strong light all the way around the perimeter. I use four 300w MarsAqua and two 185w GalaxyHydro to provide the main lighting with the 185w on each end (corner overflows didn't need the light). I also have two Kessil A360WE and four Kessil A350W; two on each end and two in the middle, all on the perimeter, for supplemental blue and shimmer.
How it looked in Jan2017. Please note I've trimmed about half of the Acropora aspera (bright green, lower left front corner) off for a frag fest in December, and others throughout the past year as well.
Beginning of Dec2015. What started as a little brown stick under my 250w halides has turned purple under these LEDs (and in this environment). If you look closely at the top edges of this coral, you will see a bright turquoise coloration. This is the photo-inhibition pigmentation for this coral as I've turned the LEDs up too quickly and it's trying to block the light.
Dec2016. Here's the same coral a year later (okay, a year and five days...) and after a number of "resets" on the lighting: starting at a low level and slowly bringing them up over a the course of about a month. Something I try to do with nearly every new coral...which isn't too often anymore, I admit.
Dec2016. One of my favorite views, from the "right" end looking down the length of the reef.
Take your time with these lights, use a PAR meter to set them up (I've toasted too many corals, so please, take that seriously), and read this thread for lots of good ideas and information, ranging from changing out the 80mm fans for quieter versions (still on my to do list) to videos of how the desolder and solder in new LEDs and what brand (Epistar) to look for.
Hope this helps in everyone's adventures!:thumbsup:
Cheers,
Ray
Dec2015. Reef a couple months after I installed the MarsAqua 300w fixtures.
*A note about this installation. This aquarium is a walk-around, and the reef is built diagonally from the left rear of this photo to the right front, and I needed to provide strong light all the way around the perimeter. I use four 300w MarsAqua and two 185w GalaxyHydro to provide the main lighting with the 185w on each end (corner overflows didn't need the light). I also have two Kessil A360WE and four Kessil A350W; two on each end and two in the middle, all on the perimeter, for supplemental blue and shimmer.
How it looked in Jan2017. Please note I've trimmed about half of the Acropora aspera (bright green, lower left front corner) off for a frag fest in December, and others throughout the past year as well.
Beginning of Dec2015. What started as a little brown stick under my 250w halides has turned purple under these LEDs (and in this environment). If you look closely at the top edges of this coral, you will see a bright turquoise coloration. This is the photo-inhibition pigmentation for this coral as I've turned the LEDs up too quickly and it's trying to block the light.
Dec2016. Here's the same coral a year later (okay, a year and five days...) and after a number of "resets" on the lighting: starting at a low level and slowly bringing them up over a the course of about a month. Something I try to do with nearly every new coral...which isn't too often anymore, I admit.
Dec2016. One of my favorite views, from the "right" end looking down the length of the reef.
Take your time with these lights, use a PAR meter to set them up (I've toasted too many corals, so please, take that seriously), and read this thread for lots of good ideas and information, ranging from changing out the 80mm fans for quieter versions (still on my to do list) to videos of how the desolder and solder in new LEDs and what brand (Epistar) to look for.
Hope this helps in everyone's adventures!:thumbsup:
Cheers,
Ray
