Looking at running the 300w over 40g breeder to grow out frags...
Thoughts?
Well, really need the red for photosynthesis. Preferably, for chlorophyll A and C2. I know too much red can cause bleaching so i'm trying to keep it at 5% of total light. I guess for me, disco isn't a concern and slightly relative when using 120 deg lenses.
Green (500-530nm) mostly cancels whites but i'm using cyan(490nm) which has a slightly high rate of absorption for that. So, i'm comfortable with keeping that out.
I think I also agree on the warm white. Though, it will help with reducing an over all windex coloration.
Yeah, i've been toying with swaping chips for several years now. Not a big deal.
Yeah I replaced them in my 300watt units. Really easy with a good soldering iron
Where did you get the replacements?
I believe viparspectra is the same light but has built in features, 1 cord?
Yes.
This thread has boomed since I last looked at it almost a year ago. I went with the viparspectra and have 3 on my 180.
I run a softie tank so I cannot comment about sps growth etc, but that said these are very good for the price paid. Had no problems with the tank which was previously on 250w MH's.
this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCSbukB3Ieg makes a lot of interesting points about these Chinese "black box" lights, to me the most worry-some is their use of super cheap non-UL listed power supplies which may pose a fire hazard, backed up by the fact that they don't seem to be sold by any retailer that one would have a realistic chance of suing if they burn something down
First question: Does anyone know a UL listed intermediate between these super cheap lights and the $650 level lights like the radion XR30w? I am finally thinking of converting over my 31" deep 300 gallon which is mainly lit by 1200W MH pendants and
a couple of T5s and LED strips, I would want a lot of light
The second point the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCSbukB3Ieg makes about these Chinese "black box" lights is that they have a very focussed beam, with excessively high par values near the center of the beam that fall off precipitously near the edges. Is anyone aware of an equally detailed study of how the par values drop off after a diffuser is put in?
I ended up removing all the stock 60 degree lenses...put 90 degrees on half of the leds and left the other half lense-less (for 120 deg spread). The laser beam effect in them middle was greatly reduced...and spread was much better..while still getting enough PAR to the bottom half of the tank.
Overall...just takes some playing around with...but the stock 60degree lenses the black box comes with standard are it's biggest issue IMO.