Maxspect LED owners!!!

Well the 30w leds I got in do have slightly better color, however they are the wrong voltage :( Rated at 15-18V. Maxspect uses 24-25V versions DOH! Also the color is not much better than the stock maxspect lights, just slightly more purple.

I can say the kick the living crap out of the maxspect 30w units output wise! Wholly cow! 1 unit can light up a room with ease. Makes 4 13W cfl's look dim.

Anyways since I cannot use these, if any of you have a diy project, I am going to post them for sale for $70 shipped priority mail for the pair which is a little less than I paid.
 
One thing to point out, since this is the first time I have taken a 30W unit out, they did not hardly use any thermal grease on mine!!!! This is BAD. On low voltage tests, many of the chips on my 30W leds were slightly damaged. They still functioned at full voltage, but damage was apparent from many chips being super dim & comparison to others at low voltage. I would estimate each 30w unit had 5-8 damaged chips. I would suspect this is from thermal damage.

I cleaned & properly greased the 30W leds on one of my fixtures & not the other intentionally. At the end of the year, I want to see if the 30W emitters on the one I greased vs the ones I left with the tiny amount of stock grease are in better condition.
 
A pair of g2 160w units would do the trick, however I would not keep any sps below 24" if you have the 160w units close to the water / as in 3" or so off the water.
 
Well.. the tank is up.. I do have some dark corners.. but maybe some low light creatures will like it there..
 

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Well.. the tank is up.. I do have some dark corners.. but maybe some low light creatures will like it there..

I'd raise the fixture a little and it will illuminate the corners better. It also looks like any coral you place near the top will get fried!

Nice tank BTW!
 
well messing around with my g 170w i took the clear lense off it and re-hung it, it's alot brighter without the lense blocking some of the light, yes i know i am taking the chance of splashing but i never had a guard on my t5's either and it allowed me to raise it up higher
 
well messing around with my g 170w i took the clear lense off it and re-hung it, it's alot brighter without the lense blocking some of the light, yes i know i am taking the chance of splashing but i never had a guard on my t5's either and it allowed me to raise it up higher
I'm assuming the lens is acrylic??? Would 1/8" glass be more transparent/block LESS light? You could possibly use custom piece of glass cut to size. IDK - just a thought.
 
feels like lexan. I can slide mine back and forth and visually can see no difference? You could put 1/8 glass in it, but 1/8 over that span would be very fragile. No way they could ship it like that IMO.
 
feels like lexan. I can slide mine back and forth and visually can see no difference? You could put 1/8 glass in it, but 1/8 over that span would be very fragile. No way they could ship it like that IMO.
Agree with fragility. I didn't know if glass allows for more light penetration & yet still provides splash guard??? Just a thought.
 
The fixture IMO definitely needs a splash guard as the circuit board is exposed around every led. A small splash could easily short the fixture out.

You are correct though, good glass would for sure offer better output over the lexan or acrilic, not sure by how much though. The material seems to warp a small amount with the heat of the 30w leds which will further distort the light output & could change the pattern a bit..
 
Agree with fragility. I didn't know if glass allows for more light penetration & yet still provides splash guard??? Just a thought.

Glass, even starfire, will block more light. I would not remove the lexan or a splash will surely fry the unit. Plexi glass is almost pure, however, it scratches easy, and scratches will block light more efficiently.
 
I think you missed the sagging / melting part. No way it is as clear as glass with curved almost reverse bubbles under the 30w leds.

Also would consider nothing less than starphire as we do not need to block UV with leds.
 
I think you missed the sagging / melting part. No way it is as clear as glass with curved almost reverse bubbles under the 30w leds.

Also would consider nothing less than starphire as we do not need to block UV with leds.

I'd be worried about a fire if the lexan is bubbling up.

I didn;t miss the bubbling part, but was just stating that you will not find glass as clear as plexiglass/lexan.
 
Does anyone know what type of wire is used in the hanging kit? I need a longer drop.

It doesn't feel like wire, rather a plastic material. I'm in the same boat - with tall ceilings and a shallow frag tank, the G2s hanging kit limits me to 7" above the tank. I'm going to order a hanging kit designed for the AquaIllumination. It's made by GripLock and is much higher quality (especially the sliders and ceiling attachments.) The AI kit drop lines are 10' so it's more than enough for virtually any install. You can use the existing Maxspect attachment points and just replace the drops with the parts from the AI kit.

The only downside is it stainless steel, so it won't perfectly match the plastic line of the Maxspect attachment loop.

Although they're not great photos, you can see an AquaIllumination hung using their drop kit next to a G2 hung with the Maxspect kit at http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1841197 Unfortunately the pics don't show the top of the hanging kit or sliders, but you can compare the drop line thickness and color from an aesthetics point. I don't think it will be very noticeable.
 
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It doesn't feel like wire, rather a plastic material. I'm in the same boat - with tall ceilings and a shallow frag tank, the G2s hanging kit limits me to 7" above the tank. I'm going to order a hanging kit designed for the AquaIllumination. It's made by GripLock and is much higher quality (especially the sliders and ceiling attachments.) The AI kit drop lines are 10' so it's more than enough for virtually any install. You can use the existing Maxspect attachment points and just replace the drops with the parts from the AI kit.

There is a metal core, I had to cut one after it snagged and the coating became lodged in the pass through. Thank you for your input, I will take a look at the AI kit.
 
Do you guys think the G1-60w unit would be sufficient over a 28gal BioCube, replacing the 150w HQI hood? I would probably keep the hood, but gut it and fit the LED fixture in there, maybe keep the fans. It would be a mixed tank of LPS and easier SPS.
 
I think you missed the sagging / melting part. No way it is as clear as glass with curved almost reverse bubbles under the 30w leds.

Also would consider nothing less than starphire as we do not need to block UV with leds.

Clear acrylic has a 92% light transmittance and is clearer than glass. It is not recommended for temp higher than 200F. At about 320 to 340F, it becomes soft and pliable. With that said, I have been running my 230W since 3/19/10 and I have noticed no sagging or melting of the acrylic splash shield at or near the 30W bulbs. I don't believe the heat generated is on the bulb side of the LED but rather its on the thermal junction between the base of the LED and the heatsink where the temp can be around 125F - 130F.
 
and he say's "You can replace it for yourself, but we do not suppose using Cree on it, cree is using a more high power, it will not good for the protection if it damage"

so ill be watching the key led instead the maxspect anyone have buy the key led?

Here are some informations on KEY LEDs.. not much though..

"""Hi there. I am from USA and looking to purchase a LED light fixture for my 57 gallon Oceanic Illuminata Reef tank. I saw Your LED products and I am very interested, but I need to know few more informations about it. Does it come with HANGING KIT? Also does it have US power adapter (110V) ???

Another thing is, if it will be easy to change LEDs chip in this fixture or is it impossible ? Please let me know as soon as possible, since I am not sure if I should go with this light fixture or Maxspect... ??? Any info will be appreciate.. thank You. """
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And here is answer str8 from KEY manufacture:

"""Thank for your mail at first.

I will answer your question.

1) Our product can be hung the tank. But you should be buy Hanging bracket.
2) f***-s*****s Key Aquarium system can support US power adapter(110V)
3) Our product will not be easy to change LEDs chip in this fixture. We believe that led lights beads of life is very long, so do not need to change.

Thank you for thinking of us.

best regards"""

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and here is what I got from Eric, from online store, where You can buy KEY or Maxspect lights:

"""Hi

Key LED is come with racking and hanging kit on it

yes, both of them is same design , just remove the led chips and replacement the new led is ok(burn it)

Thanks

Eric"""

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So, thats all I got so far. I wish there was more info though.
 
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