Maxspect LED owners!!!

[CalmSeasQuest]

I inquired with Brian at Fins Reef as to when the optic kits would be available - Here's the reply...

I will have the prototypes to display at MACNA, with the final production should arrive the 2nd to 3rd week of September.

I'm planning on attending MACNA, I'll snap a few pics of them running and post if anyone's interested.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

So how much higher does it let you hang them and do you loose par rating the higher they go?

Hard to say until we get them in hand. It will vary based on the optics/lens types chosen. For comparison, My AI's are currently hung 16" above the tank with 40 degree optics and I only run the whites at 40%. I could stick them to the ceiling and still have plenty of PAR to spare.

If you look at Santoki's build thread, his units closely resemble the AquaIlluminations and he has his hung 4' above the tank bottom...Optics RULE

I'll order the optics, not because I need more PAR at depth (my G2 is used over a shallow frag tank) but rather to raise them higher for better coverage and less light spillage on the walls.

 

[dragoneggs]

I wish they made that earlier, because I would have bought the 110 instead of the 160, oh well.

160W still gives you options the 110w doesn't... more light! I have two 160s and I will be getting the optics package for mine!

 

[blasterman789]

Yes, as seen in the photos. In addition to delivering more PAR deeper in the tank (if needed), it enables you to hang the lights higher with less spillage outside of the tank.

About a year ago I ran into the same dilema with the Bridgelux emitters I was using, along with my increasing desire to use *anything* more powerful than 3watt LEDs.

-Where do you get optics for those big honkers without resorting to mirrors and reflectors?-

I ended up solving the problem by using the exact same prizmatic domes on the smaller G2 LEDs and just shimming them about 1/4" above the big LEDs. Worked perfectly. Looks like this light is using the same idea. The domes over the big LED arrays are likely just the same concept, but bigger.

Only concern I would have here is this light would have to be raised a bit to keep from getting 'circus-disney-disco' color from all the different type LEDs scattered all over. However, the Maxspect units I've seen all have fantastic color.

This is perplexing because it would seem to make more sense to use higher powered LEDs all around and cut the 3watts totally out of the picture. Hmmmm

 

[Acrotrdco]

Only concern I would have here is this light would have to be raised a bit to keep from getting 'circus-disney-disco' color from all the different type LEDs scattered all over. However, the Maxspect units I've seen all have fantastic color.

That's probably why they choose to use the waffled diffuser pattern, which is good at blurring the edge of the light and improving the color mixing aspect.

This is perplexing because it would seem to make more sense to use higher powered LEDs all around and cut the 3watts totally out of the picture. Hmmmm

The higher the wattage of LED bulbs, the less efficient they are and the more prone to heat issues (thus increasing luminous decay). I'd like to think 3watts or 5watts are the best candidate for this purpose.

If I were to DIY my own LED fixtures I'd use only 3watts or 5watts.:bounce1:

 

[blasterman789]

The higher the wattage of LED bulbs, the less efficient they are

Totally incorrect.

Current density does cause a problem with individual emitters, which is why Crees have had to grow in size as illustrated via the latest XPG. In order to hit it's miraculous power ratio the XP-G had to grow.

However, the big emitters here are nothing more than arrays of individual LEDs stamped in a compact package. They are not a single LED. Typically they are one watters in very large arrays.

If they are less efficient as they get bigger as you say please go to Bridgelux's site and show me how their +10 watt arrays are less efficient than their smaller emitters.

Big, LED arrays like this create a thermal challenge, but only in regards to the depth of the heatsink. Even 1/8 thick copper has a hard time with a 10watt emitter moving all that heat in a 1/8 thick plane. However, most of us in DIY are working with a sinks 3x that thickness, and I've tested these with to 20watt emitters and they handle the thermal density just fine.

If I were to DIY my own LED fixtures I'd use only 3watts or 5watts.

I'm making a couple reef light for friends right now, and not using anything less than 10watt emitters. 1/3 to 1/4 the wiring hassle and complexity, significant lower cost, and my light density in concentrated like a metal halide which is the look they want. Not small LEDs spread all over their tank. Plus, a lot cheaper. :bounce1:

Sorry to take this off topic, but the Maxspect people aren't retarded because they're thinking beyond 3watt emitters. I'm not thrilled about the actual array they're using, but it's their cost margin. I'll E-mail them and tell them where to get 20watt royals because I spec'd the darn things.:twitch:

 

[Acrotrdco]

How much forward current are you driving these 10watts / 20watts emitters?

Though I've doubts about using 3/8 thick copper panel can handle the thermal density of a 10watt / 20watt emitters.

 

[Kolognekoral]

Totally incorrect.

Well, not actually, just poorly understood. I believe what Acrotrdco may have been aiming at is the drop in efficiency related to the power consumption. Using wattage is not really a good reference when discussing LEDs, as they do not have a limited 'wattage'. One can run them at various currents. As their lumen ratings are typically made at a specific current, which is listed as their peak efficiency, they will not perform equally well when on a higher current. Typically, an LED rated at 350mA will loose efficiency at 1000mA and run at aprox. 2.5x instead of the expected 3x in brightness. The lifespan is, also, shortened. Depending on what one wants, this may be acceptable.

The multi-LED arrays are subject to the same deficiencies, IF run above their rated current. I've seen arrays with 100 LEDs that are extremely powerful with long life expectancy. They must simply be run as designed. In the DIY realm, we are given choices.

 

[stevedola]

what unit or units would you guys suggest for a 90g reef with mainly LPS and Softies?

 

[a240reef]

Does anyone know where I can purchase these LED fixtures now in the states?

 

[ErikS]

Does anyone know where I can purchase these LED fixtures now in the states?

FinsReef

 

[Acrotrdco]

Well, not actually, just poorly understood. I believe what Acrotrdco may have been aiming at is the drop in efficiency related to the power consumption. Using wattage is not really a good reference when discussing LEDs, as they do not have a limited 'wattage'. One can run them at various currents. As their lumen ratings are typically made at a specific current, which is listed as their peak efficiency, they will not perform equally well when on a higher current. Typically, an LED rated at 350mA will loose efficiency at 1000mA and run at aprox. 2.5x instead of the expected 3x in brightness. The lifespan is, also, shortened. Depending on what one wants, this may be acceptable.

The multi-LED arrays are subject to the same deficiencies, IF run above their rated current. I've seen arrays with 100 LEDs that are extremely powerful with long life expectancy. They must simply be run as designed. In the DIY realm, we are given choices.

Precisely my point, thanks.

That's why I was asking what forward current blaster is running on his 10watts / 20watts emitters.

 

[Ycore]

I've been running a G2-160W over a 24"X24"X20" tank for about three months now, suspended about six inches from the water's surface. Does anybody else find the following?

1) The thing is almost TOO bright-- especially with the 30W bulbs on? I have acros near the top of the tank, and they were/are getting bleached. Even brains down on the sandbed unless shaded were turning white. I have the blue led's on from 11am to 11pm, the 3W whites on from 1PM to 9PM and the 30W bulbs on from 3PM to 5PM.

2) The moonlights. I also find these rather bright. Does anybody else worry that they might be messing with the corals rest period during darkness.

Just trying to identify coloration issues I am having. Would be interested in what photoperiod you all use, over what size tank, and how high up you have acros placed.

 

[stevedola]

what unit or units would you guys suggest for a 90g reef with mainly LPS and Softies?

anyone?

 

[reefsurfing]

anyone?

Hey Steve,

If you have your heart set on Maxspect I would wait two to three weeks when they release their "optics" and get (2)110's. These two untis should fit the opening on a standard 90 leaving only 2"s on each side of the fixture. That would help you avoid the 30 watters on the 160's and 230's that are getting mixed reviews. enjoy.

 

[stevedola]

thank you.

 

[Rosscopeco]

I've been running a G2-160W over a 24"X24"X20" tank for about three months now, suspended about six inches from the water's surface. Does anybody else find the following?

1) The thing is almost TOO bright-- especially with the 30W bulbs on? I have acros near the top of the tank, and they were/are getting bleached. Even brains down on the sandbed unless shaded were turning white. I have the blue led's on from 11am to 11pm, the 3W whites on from 1PM to 9PM and the 30W bulbs on from 3PM to 5PM.

2) The moonlights. I also find these rather bright. Does anybody else worry that they might be messing with the corals rest period during darkness.

Just trying to identify coloration issues I am having. Would be interested in what photoperiod you all use, over what size tank, and how high up you have acros placed.

I have 2x 160w running over a smallish tank and found the lights can be too bright for some corals at first. The lighting cycle sounds similar to yours but I keep the 30w leds going for 4 hours. The lights are about six inches above the waters surface and the tank is approximately 2 foot deep.
I have sps as close as 6 inches to the surface and it does not bleach due to the light being too strong. You just need to give the coral time to adjust. Softies on the other hand all seem to hide under overhangs.

 

[tbchalmers]

Maxspeect 160 CREE after a month

Maxspeect 160 CREE after a month

Just thought that I would pop in and report on my 3X160 CREE purchase from FS. After one month, everything is going great! Corals look awesome, including the SPS corals. I took the fixture to my local fish shop and we played with a LUX meter. 700 at 5" and 500 at 10". I have had no mechanical or electrical problems.

The only complaint I have is that I had to hacksaw the crossbar supports to fit my tank, but you can't tell bc the cuts are hidden under the lights so no harm, no foul.

Something that has come up from time to time is that the CREE lights are "more yellow" than the regular lights. I haven't seen the regular lights in person, but I can tell you that there is no "yellow light". In fact, the light is bluer than my 14K HQI lamps were. Maybe the regular lights are comparable to 20K lamps, but I like it to be a little less blue. If you are debating the CREE bc of the "yellow" threads, I would not worry about that; the price difference is enough to stress over.

The lack of heat is amazing. The chiller hasn't gone off all evening and my living room is 4 degrees cooler.

Thanks for the 50K+ posts that convincedme to go this route!

 

[kmu]

Did Maxspect change the 30 watt LEDs? was reading on finsreef that the 30 watt leds are 16k color and most people here state that they are very yellow looking and would rather not have them?

When will the new fixtures with optics will come out?

THX

 

[canesfan44]

Did Maxspect change the 30 watt LEDs? was reading on finsreef that the 30 watt leds are 16k color and most people here state that they are very yellow looking and would rather not have them?

When will the new fixtures with optics will come out?

THX

I don't think they changed the 30watters. I believe they've always been listed at 16k, but to me the color seems closer to a 10-12k MH. I don't think they are yellow looking, just very crisp white.

I imagine the new fixtures will be out in a few weeks. I think the official release will be at MACNA, so you probably will start to see them just after. I'm not a rep. nor do I have any affiliation with MaxSpect, other than owning a G2-160, so please don't take anything I say as concrete.