Maxspect Mazarra.

Acrotrdco said:
Hrm I've played with my friend's modules, cutting power and restoring power, the controller and modules restore to its previous setting and link up automatically.

Perhaps go check with the support on their facebook page?
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Maxspect/122337807810949



See above :)
Click to expand...
i Spoke to Brian at finsreef. He suggested chnaging the channel of all the modules. This is what i did and now the conroller is working fine . When doing this I noticed that the optics that were installed at the company were all 70 degree optics. The PAR levels I stated, 1150 at 8" in air were with the 70 degree optics, not the 100 degree optics. I made 4 different arrangements of optics on 4 different modules and will report the PAR measurments of different mixtures of optics tomorrow.
 
Maivortex said:
i Spoke to Brian at finsreef. He suggested chnaging the channel of all the modules. This is what i did and now the conroller is working fine . When doing this I noticed that the optics that were installed at the company were all 70 degree optics. The PAR levels I stated, 1150 at 8" in air were with the 70 degree optics, not the 100 degree optics. I made 4 different arrangements of optics on 4 different modules and will report the PAR measurments of different mixtures of optics tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Nice!
 
Acrotrdco said:
Hrm I've played with my friend's modules, cutting power and restoring power, the controller and modules restore to its previous setting and link up automatically.

Perhaps go check with the support on their facebook page?
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Maxspect/122337807810949



See above :)
Click to expand...

It has something to do w/ slow discharge from power supply. They will take care of it w/ a firmware update.

It happened after a blackout. Maybe it was a rare event and I caught it.
 
Changed out the optics to represent different mix of optics. I wish there was a way to remove optics with out taking apart the housing. Perhaps a small suction cup would work. I have a lot of SPS at the surface that prevent me from taking measurments across the board under water. I separated the modules with black paper to prevent any PAR spill over from the adjacent module. I got different PAR values when going to 100% using the controller and when manualy increasing light intensity using the dial on the module. Perhaps this was user error but not likely.

PAR listed below is from 8" away in air using the dial on the module to control intensity:

40/60 mix of 40 and 100 degree optic s (40 degree in 4 center led's and all cree xml) = 585
40/60 mix of 40 and 70 degree optics (40 degree in the 4 center led's and all cree xml) =1380
60/40 mix of 40 and 100 degree optics (100 degree in 4 center led's and all cree xml) =900
All 100 degree
=850

PAR listed below is from 8" using the controller for intensity:

50/50 mix of 40 and 100 degree optic s (40 degree in 4 center led's and all cree xml) = 875
50/50 mix of 40 and 70 degree optics (40 degree in the 4 center led's and all cree xml) =1430
50/50 mix of 40 and 100 degree optics (100 degree in 4 center led's and all cree xml) =970
All 100 degree =920
 
It did it again, we just had tropical storm Irene pass through the area and we must've had another short blackout because I came home early in the morning (I was on 24 hr call) to find that my tank was blazed a lit at 100% on all intensities and the wireless controller completely blank (it was backlit but nothing was onscreen and it was not responding to commands). So I pulled the plug on the lights and let the power supplies discharge and re-powered and had to set up the wireless link again.

I really hope I get a permanent fix soon because this is a problem... Well, at least I know when we've had a black out. :) Haha

Also, has anyone noticed how wicked hot (almost too hot to handle) the powersupplies get when driving at 100% for an extended period of time. The powersupply that supplied 2 modules gets crazy hot, it really is too much to handle at times.

Cheers,
John
 
Maivortex said:
Changed out the optics to represent different mix of optics. I wish there was a way to remove optics with out taking apart the housing. Perhaps a small suction cup would work. I have a lot of SPS at the surface that prevent me from taking measurments across the board under water. I separated the modules with black paper to prevent any PAR spill over from the adjacent module. I got different PAR values when going to 100% using the controller and when manualy increasing light intensity using the dial on the module. Perhaps this was user error but not likely.

PAR listed below is from 8" away in air using the dial on the module to control intensity:

40/60 mix of 40 and 100 degree optic s (40 degree in 4 center led's and all cree xml) = 585
40/60 mix of 40 and 70 degree optics (40 degree in the 4 center led's and all cree xml) =1380
60/40 mix of 40 and 100 degree optics (100 degree in 4 center led's and all cree xml) =900
All 100 degree
=850

PAR listed below is from 8" using the controller for intensity:

50/50 mix of 40 and 100 degree optic s (40 degree in 4 center led's and all cree xml) = 875
50/50 mix of 40 and 70 degree optics (40 degree in the 4 center led's and all cree xml) =1430
50/50 mix of 40 and 100 degree optics (100 degree in 4 center led's and all cree xml) =970
All 100 degree =920
Click to expand...

I can live with those numbers, :) But the ultimate test will be to see if my corals continue growing.
 
Hey Maivortex...

Is there anyway you can post something like this w/ the 100 degree optics on 100% intensity? Posting overall dimensions of the tank would be very helpful as well!

It might give everybody a better idea of the overall look/color and spectrum you are getting from the lights.

Some people are very visual and I think it is easier to understand when Par numbers are displayed in this form. :) These are vertex illumina numbers...

PAR180611.jpg


I appreciate it, but if you are too busy, I understand! We all appreciate all the PAR numbers you are posting.

Cheers,
John
 
I am unable to do that. The sensor for the meter is about 4 iches high and I dont ahve any room in the tank. The corals are pushing/ growing on the walls. I will upgrade to a 300 gallon after the new year. In the meantime there is no real estate left in the tank.
mazarrawithlight2.jpg
 
Maivortex said:
I am unable to do that. The sensor for the meter is about 4 iches high and I dont ahve any room in the tank. The corals are pushing/ growing on the walls. I will upgrade to a 300 gallon after the new year. In the meantime there is no real estate left in the tank.
mazarrawithlight2.jpg
Click to expand...

Good lord man! How do you even clean the side walls?
 
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