jedimasterben
LED world domination!
My SCW are almost here already, they're chillin in NYC right now O2 had me worried when he said that his took almost 2 months to arrive! lol
Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino
- Thread starter pwreef
- Start date
LOL- I've since learned that the seller I purchased mine from, was posting listings for products that he didn't actually have in stock. The Dirty Bastid was taking orders and then sitting on them until the parts arrived from Meanwell. If I ever find myself in Taiwan.....:furious:
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
That sucks. I hate it when stores do that. At least some of them are nice and say that they'll ship X weeks ARO.
I just can't wait to get everything going. My Nanobox hyrbid enclosures will be here in the next week or two, and I've gotta get a few more LEDs, but really all I'm waiting for are specific-binned 465nm blue XP-E2 from LGB, those are still 2-3 weeks out.
I found 20 some odd thousand at a supplier buried deep in China, but unless you're in the market to buy a few thousand in a single purchase, they're not willing to even give you the time of day. If I ever find myself in China......:angryfire:
I spent a lot of time soldering PcB's today. I manged to build 5 APEX convertors, 5 4upLDD-H/SCW's, and 5 8upLDD-H/Dual SCW PcB's. I'm tired of soldering for awhile. As these PcB's get evermore complicated, they're taking a lot longer to solder LOL. Anyone ever DIY a solder wave machine? That may have to be my next endeavor.:lol2:
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
If there is anyone that could do it, it would be you! Hop to it! lol
You'll have to experiment a bit, but it only takes a small dab of solder, roughly the size of each pad. Just try it a few times and you'll get an idea of how much is required for each different component. If it appears that you didn't use enough, you can always retouch the joint using a conventional soldering iron.
Got it. I did a couple of the cat5 connectors on one board. I ended up running a small line on the two rows of 4 hit it with the heat gun, and the solder all sucked into the connection. I thought it was going to all be bridged from the line that that came out of the syringe, but it all went right where it belonged when I added a little heat, easy peasy lol.
Hey O2,...question for you. For the little copper hs's, I see they have peal and stick. Do you solder them anyway? Should I just set them in some paste and heat them up? Also is there an order as to what parts I should attach to the board? I mean should I do the little smd resistors last? Thanks,---Rick
Hey O2,...question for you. For the little copper hs's, I see they have peal and stick. Do you solder them anyway? Should I just set them in some paste and heat them up? Also is there an order as to what parts I should attach to the board? I mean should I do the little smd resistors last? Thanks,---Rick
Rick-
I start the process by soldering in the A6211 by hand, using conventional solder, then flip the PcB over and back fill the thermal via under the chip with solder. I add just enough solder to bring the hole flush with the PcB. I then solder the copper sink directly to the PcB (remove the adhesive first). I normally apply flux to the heat sink and to the solder pad before hand, and use the iron to heat the copper sink directly. When the flux begins to boil- feed in additional solder until it appears around the perimeter of the sink, and your done. Allow the sink to cool off and then use hot air to solder the remaining components on the top side of the board. Since you're using low melt solder for the SMD stuff, there's no danger of reheating the conventional solder enough for it to re-melt. Practice some- you'll get the hang of it.
Thanks O2,...now that is the clear detailed "how to" information I was looking for, without the need for posting a dozen follow up questions. When I get my 2nd order of heatsinks I'll give it a shot. I just ordered thre 2nd order yesterday. My friends at usps can't seem to find my first order. I tracked the darn things from China,...it got through Chicago, and to the last sort facility Allenpark Mi (40mi from my house),... now it seems to have fallen into the usps black hole vortex. Sooooo after 4 weeks, I through the towel in and reordered. If the ordered somehow turns up, I'll have plenty if anyone needs some.
Thanks for the flux info also O2. I wasn't sure what it was for? So, its for my regular solder, not the paste. Got it, :thumbsup: I have a mush clearer picture now O2 . Thanks,---Rick
Thanks for the flux info also O2. I wasn't sure what it was for? So, its for my regular solder, not the paste. Got it, :thumbsup: I have a mush clearer picture now O2 . Thanks,---Rick
reefhabitat
New member
Hello
I want to build some 5 channel 100w leds
Sorry the thread is too long...
Does anyone try this drivers with board:
http://ac-rc.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=221
what do you think about them???
thanks
I want to build some 5 channel 100w leds
Sorry the thread is too long...
Does anyone try this drivers with board:
http://ac-rc.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=221
what do you think about them???
thanks
It looks like A6211 is a great driver, I'm wondering does it require a heat sink for 2-3A current ?
Did you try it?
Hahahahaha....man... O2 it only took them a year to copy and produce your design! Why are those LDDs white? I wonder if they are a knock-off of the originals.
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
Yup, more Chinese knockoff and more than likely garbage. Pay the extra $5 and get the real deal.
Thanks for the head up, because this thread is the last place on the internet that I'd expect to find a Pcb designed expressly for mounting MeanWell LDD's. I'm betting your computer's government controlled search engine had a hard time finding this site.
I haven't tried to push the chip that hard yet. The data sheet indicates that the chip is capable of pushing 3 amps, but I have a hard time understanding how it could when only mounted to a four layer circuit board. At 3 amps the chip has to effectively dissipate over 5 watts of power to prevent overheating. I've managed 1600ma with my little LDD-H replacement driver, but had to add an copper heat sink to make it reliable.
LOL, it looks more like Rrasco's than anything else. It's 130mm X 80mm. I'm sure more companies will jump on the band wagon with the same idea. It's too bad for them that the designs on this forum have progressed to the point that the Pcb's can no longer be assembled by machine. The mix of SMD and through hole components makes soldering by hand the only option for mass production. Not that China's lacking enough labor to do so- LOL.
