Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

Think I could sneak 15 of the 3V Rebel ES royal blue or neutral whites on one of the LDD's with a 48v power supply? I seem to remember reading that it needs about 3v of difference between the supply and the load.

Data Sheet for the Rebel ES color is http://www.philipslumileds.com/uploads/265/DS68-pdf and it shows about exactly 3v at 700mA and 3.1v at 1000mA for the LXML-PR02 royal blues that StevesLEDs sells, for instance.

The LXML-PR01 royal blues are more like 3.25v at 700mA and 3.4v at 1000mA, so I know I wouldn't be able to do 15 of those.
 
this is off topic would anyone have a few spare regulator 7810 they would part with?

I've got some, but they're the SMD version-http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/UA7810CKTTR/296-20797-1-ND/1204661
I might have a couple in the more conventional "through-hole" version, but I'll have to look for them later tonight.
 
Thanks MagicJ for that info. Super helpful. I'll try to machine up my enclosure this weekend and see how things go in the enclosed space.



As mentioned previously, I'd do a separate DC/DC step down off the main board. They're cheap off eBay. From experience they have a tendency to go whacky on you, especially if you're not paying attention.

What I'm doing (and this might be a good mod for the future boards as well) is to put the DC/DC step down off the driver board (I'll be putting mine right in the hood) and control the input power to it using a PN2222 transistor on the driver board. What I'm doing here is using channel 1 (I'm calling the first channel that turns on in the morning and last to turn off at night channel 1 - ie. royal blues) to control power to the fans. If you connect the base of the of the transistor to the Vout,+ of the driver through a high value resistor (5K to 10K) and connect the collector to the -ve pin of the DC/DC step down and the emitter to ground, the transistor acts like a switch (since it will be in saturation).

To translate this into English, when the driver is dimmed to "off"/0% there is no voltage applied to the Vout,+ pin - thus the fans are off. But as soon as the driver is dimmed on, even the slightest bit, the transistor "switches on" and turns on power to the fans. This way the fans only come on when the LEDs are on and you don't need to waste a channel on your controller and extra time programming in order to control your fans. The PN2222 transistors are about $0.15 ea... much cheaper than all the fancy fan controllers people use.

awesome idea, I plan to build an adruino controller for my led build, adding a temp sensor for the fans will be good too. so with your plan the fan gets power, and then with the temp sensor, the fan only runs when needed.
this would be similar to the AI's. now i just need to learn adruino, I only want a led controller, don't need all the bells and whistles, plus i want itto be touch screen. This is an awesome Thread!
 
Well if you can't find them locally, MOUSER's got over 800 of them in stock for only $.68 Each. Order them now, and get them via USPS in a couple of days.
http://www.mouser.com/search/Produc...utm_campaign=512-KA7810AETU&utm_term=KA7810AE

I love Mouser. Some stuff can be more expensive, like the LDDs, but they are so close to me I get stuff via Brown Ground next morning if you order before 8PM. Worth it to me, most of the time.

I need to just start stocking up on lots from overseas though, so I have everything on hand.
 
So what do folks think about 15 of the 3v Rebels on one LDD with 48v power supply? Doable, or not so much?
 
So what do folks think about 15 of the 3v Rebels on one LDD with 48v power supply? Doable, or not so much?

That should be doable. Just remember that you can always crank up the voltage on the MeanWell supply. Most are adjustable +/- 10%, so you should be able to get at least 52 volts out of it.
I've got one that I modded a bit, so that it now adjusts from 16V to 52V :celeb1:
 
That should be doable. Just remember that you can always crank up the voltage on the MeanWell supply. Most are adjustable +/- 10%, so you should be able to get at least 52 volts out of it.
I've got one that I modded a bit, so that it now adjusts from 16V to 52V :celeb1:

Thanks. Which one did you mod? I'd been looking at the SE-350-48 which also seems to be the same as the NES-350-48. Both have voltage adjustable up to 56. Specs seem similar. /shrug
 
So what do folks think about 15 of the 3v Rebels on one LDD with 48v power supply? Doable, or not so much?

I have 5 OCWs (therefore 15 Rebels) connected through a single LDD 700 to a Meanwell HLG, and it works nicely.
 
Hi. Im thinking of using the LDD-1000H with 5 pieces 10w led for a project.
They need 9-12v and 1000ma. If i understand it i need a 48V 1.5A power supply. Correct??
 
Boards arrived :)

37726DE3-ABC2-420D-B322-077D70497C73-18087-00000CEB85AC7540.jpg


Soldered on the sockets and terminals....

E161959D-1EA6-481E-BE45-587E368A5B61-18087-00000CEB91243921.jpg


Plugged in the drivers....

9C8D9EE3-6F6A-4036-9D98-A53194897FA0-18087-00000CEB978323E2.jpg


Big thanks to 02Surplus for the board design :)

Just got to finish the rest of the build now!
 
Hi. Im thinking of using the LDD-1000H with 5 pieces 10w led for a project.
They need 9-12v and 1000ma. If i understand it i need a 48V 1.5A power supply. Correct??

You are using 5 LDD-1000H or 5 LEDs? 5 LDD-1000H is 5A, so for that, I would shoot for about 7-8A power supply. If you are only going to use one LDD-1000H, then the 1.5A would suffice.
 
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