Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

Sweet.

I may have to add a string of blues to use up the 3rd socket when I get mine. Eud, who is a prince, is sharing one from his order with me.
 
Nice! I see the little 103 on those resistors. I'm really glad you made this board, and I hope my solder turns out as nice. I'm going to sneak it downstairs to the electronics lab here and use their schmancy Metcal soldering stations, so maybe that will work much better than my cruddy old Black and Decker.

A little practice time is all it takes.Soldering SMD components can be a bit tedious when you're dealing with IC's that have fine pitch pin spacing, but you can get down right lazy with other components and still get good looking results. I recently found and purchased some SMD soldering paste that melts at 130C! I use the needle applicator to apply the paste to all the solder pads, place all the components by hand, and then use an adjustable heat gun to melt the solder. I'd use a modified toaster oven, but my wife doesn't appreciate the smell of solder fumes as much as I do. LOL
 
For SMD, at least resistors and caps, I put a small bump on one pad of the component, get tweasers and hold the component close, heat up the bump from the previous step, when ready, set the component in place and remove heat. Hold it there until it cools into place. Then you can easily solder the other side of the component. Goes pretty quick if you tin the pads and run down the assembly all at once. ICs are a bit trickier as O2 said, cuz the pins are so close together.
 
Sweet! I just got an Email notification that my order of (20) LDD 1000-H just shipped from PowerGate LLC! Now I can get busy!
 
I think he ordered them a while back and was waiting for them. I can't remember yesterday though, so I could stand corrected.
 
when I repair stuff with chips that gotta be replaced, like arduino nano's that I fry, I just glob the soldier on and use some copper braid to clean up all the shorts, end result is clean and it looks like I know what I'm doing
 
when I repair stuff with chips that gotta be replaced, like arduino nano's that I fry, I just glob the soldier on and use some copper braid to clean up all the shorts, end result is clean and it looks like I know what I'm doing

Yep. My officemate just showed me a bet he won years ago when he bet someone he could solder on some crazy fine pitch IC to a board. He just blobbed it all on then used desolder braid to clean up the bridges and shorts. Looks pretty good and worked.
 
Bought a Bazillion of em' from a seller on Fleabay last year. Had I known you where looking for them, I could have sent them with that shield I gave ya, :headwalls:

O2, What is the technical name? I tried to find some also, but didn't know what to search for. I'll try ebay again if I know what to call them. Thanks---Rick
 
when I repair stuff with chips that gotta be replaced, like arduino nano's that I fry, I just glob the soldier on and use some copper braid to clean up all the shorts, end result is clean and it looks like I know what I'm doing

To be honest- Soldering really fine pitched IC's to newly made Pcb's is really easy. You don't need to "add" any additional solder to make a good joint. There's plenty of solder already in the solder mask to do the job. Just apply plenty of rosin, line up and hold the chip in the proper position, and simply "rake" the solder tip across the pins and pads. The solder will re-flow to the pin and make the connection. I can solder an Atmega 328-AU in less than 20 seconds using this method, but I've had a lot of practice :lol:
 
I placed my PCB orders the other day; I expect it will be a while as I opted for cheap shipping.. Now I realize I need to order 50 LDD's to go with them..
 
My friend has a fish store in his basement, and he needs some lights.. Yeah I was wanting to be capable of full power on a 5 channel multichip; I may end up pairing a 600 and 700 or two 600's. He only needs 3 lights right now, but I want to replace the power setup on mine with these as they are dimmable to 0; mine will just use 5 LDDs for now, or maybe even 5 500's.

The extra board will probably see service as 5 lights on freshwater tanks, or so.

My friend has around 4000 gallons of tanks in his basement, mostly freshwater but he's getting into SW and really loving it.
 
wow that is a set up 4000 gal in a basement. Sounds like a full time job. Guess the more automation the better.
I'd like to get closer to 1400ma power, can you run two LDD's in series to push above a H-1000?
 
I'd like to get closer to 1400ma power, can you run two LDD's in series to push above a H-1000?

and that is the million dollar question to which I have been patiently awaiting a definive answere on! :D

I'd like to see 2000mA for xml's.......
 
and that is the million dollar question to which I have been patiently awaiting a definive answere on! :D

I'd like to see 2000mA for xml's.......

I'll parallel drive 3 700ma LDD's into a 100 watt led and see what happens. I figure if that works- driving a couple of 1000's together into the same load should work too. I'll give it a try and report back tomorrow. My 20 LDD 1000-H will arrive Tuesday and I'll re-run the same experiment with them just to be sure.
 
I'll parallel drive 3 700ma LDD's into a 100 watt led and see what happens. I figure if that works- driving a couple of 1000's together into the same load should work too. I'll give it a try and report back tomorrow. My 20 LDD 1000-H will arrive Tuesday and I'll re-run the same experiment with them just to be sure.

Seeing as you will doing some testing :) can you also see what current the LDD dimming circuit draws.

I tested one today and I hope I have done something wrong as I got the following results:

100% PWM - 8mA
1% PWM - 52mA :eek2:

If these results are correct, and I hope they are not, then they will draw too much current for an Arduino pin and 8 will draw too much for the Arduino in total.

Please tell me I have done something wrong.

:beer:
 
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