Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

[proietti]

I need to start a build thread but in the mean time figured I would post a picture of my completed driver box. I am setting up two x 9' Makers LED rails for my 600g tank. Using 7 different colors split across 22 LDD-H's powered by two Meanwell HLG-240H-54A power supplies. I am also using two ebay voltage adjustable voltage regulators, one for each Makers LED to power the fans and two of Steve's Aquarium Interface drivers to go from two Neptune Apex VDMs. While it's more expensive then setting up a Arduino I wanted to keep everything on my Apex. I ended up going with Molex connectors for everything. A little time consuming but not to bad to do. Thanks

Hi your set up looks great. I am doing more or less a similar set up. Can you please advise how you have connected Steve's interface to the drivers?

 

[risk1994]

Why swap Cree for Luxeon? I thought Cree was more efficient?

 

[Dave Thebrewguy]

Why swap Cree for Luxeon? I thought Cree was more efficient?

Efficiency is pretty close, depending on the current used, it could go either way. Cree handles more power and has the ability to put out more light but Philips seems to put out a hair more when both are driven in the range that I actually use. As far as I'm concerned, it's so close that it's a dead heat.
OTOH, Cree does not make a XT-E in the proper wavelength for photosynthesis in Chlorophyll A, the predominent pigment in most corals. Chlorophyll A requires light below 450nm, in fact, photosynthesis falls off to near zero and almost exactly 450nm. Cree makes XT-E Royal Blue in a number of bins with peaks between 450 and 465nm but nothing below 450nm, using the lowest bin will get you some light in the proper range but most of the output is more suitable for Chlorophyll B which is found in plants, in the aquarium it's found in algae.
Luxeons are available in bins from 440-450nm, this is within the action spectrum for Chlorophyll A so the majority of the light produced is useable for photosynthesis. I've used both emitter side by side, on the same driver and found that the Philips has a Vf that is 1-2% lower than the XT-E so it is using 1-2% less power at the same current level. To my uncalibrated eye, the Philips looked a hair brighter, if anything the lower wavelength should look a hair dimmer as the human eye does not respond to it as well, so it was certainly putting out slightly more light. Both LEDs are on the same heatsinks and the design allows for checking the temperature right behind the star. To my uncalibrated finger, the Crees run slightly hotter than the Philips. A nice lab quality temp probe showed differences of 2-5 degrees. I can't say that my measurement methods were perfect but I am convinced that there is a small difference in Philips' favor.
I have neither the test equipment, nor the methodology to state that one brand is better than the other from a 100% scientific viewpoint so YMMV. I have studied the specs for both and IMHO, the quantity of light produced and the efficiency is very near equal at the currents I use (500-1000mA) and the Philips offers better spectrum when it comes to supporting photosynthesis. I have also used both LEDs under identical conditions and my non-scientific experience is that the Philips puts out slightly more light and shightly less heat, while using slightly less energy.
Did I mention that this is all IMHO, and YMMV? I've used both and I will be using only the Philips in the future.

 

[WmTasker]

I've been trying to read and can't find my answer. So please explain. I have seen many boards made on this thread and none of them have anything going between the -DC input on the screw down and the -in on the LDD. I am guessing that the -DC input is provided my the 0-5V input on the PWM circuit, but I wanted to ask to make sure.

Thanks
Billy

 

[sfsuphysics]

I'm a little confused. I'm using 6 xt-e and 4 xp-g on my nano. Can the 1000 ldd run these or should I bee waiting for the 2000 to come out? Seems like running them in series could be iffy and earlier in this thread someone. Mentioned the 1000 couldn't run them to full brightness.

Well technically 1000mA couldn't run them to "full brightness" but that's only because you're not pushing them to their maximum rated current. Note that almost no one runs LEDs at their maximum rated current, because you're seriously overdriving them. Max current in no way translates to what you should run them at though. The 1000mA LDDs should be more than fine, if you want to wait for a 2000mA LDD... you might be waiting a long time, I've not even heard a mention there will be a 2000mA in the first place, might not want to assume there will be either lest you might never get your LEDs up and running.

1000mA with 10 LEDs over a "nano" should be sufficient though.

 

[rott]

Wmtasker the hole board is a ground go back a few pages and look for ground plane
That might help

 

[risk1994]

I'd really love to put together a typhon and a couple of these ldd's to power my 6 xt-e and 4 xp-g's.

I have some soldering skills but my knowledge of electronics is limited to understanding series vs. parallel circuits.

Is it possible for someone to put together a clear description of ALL the parts necessary for this build and perhaps a little more specifics on assembly?

I usually dont like asking to have my hand held but I bet there are lots of people who are in my position who would like one of these.

If this project is unrealistic for someone with my limited knowledge to tackle without much more research in circuitry that would be good to know too. I'll just accept dimming to 10% then off. I figured I'd take a shot at asking.

 

[sfsuphysics]

I'd really love to put together a typhon and a couple of these ldd's to power my 6 xt-e and 4 xp-g's.

I have some soldering skills but my knowledge of electronics is limited to understanding series vs. parallel circuits.

Is it possible for someone to put together a clear description of ALL the parts necessary for this build and perhaps a little more specifics on assembly?

There are many threads that already have builds on them try looking around, I posted a link to one I did a few pages back, going this route with an arduino controller and LDD drivers really is no different than using ELN drivers with an Apex or something.

You need drivers + power supply, LEDs, heatsink, way to attach LEDs to heatsink, and wire (or go the easy route with solderless LEDs.. still need wire) and you're about 70% done

 

[rrasco]

I've been trying to read and can't find my answer. So please explain. I have seen many boards made on this thread and none of them have anything going between the -DC input on the screw down and the -in on the LDD. I am guessing that the -DC input is provided my the 0-5V input on the PWM circuit, but I wanted to ask to make sure.

Thanks
Billy

They are connected via a ground plane.

 

[bwlange3]

This is a 10x5. I believe itead lets you go up to 10x10 for the larger boards. This board would cost the same as a 10x10. I could probably double this up and put 8 drivers on a 10x10, but I don't know how useful that is to people. Like I said, I'll just make a bunch and whoever want to use what, go for it.

What a great read this thread has been! I think I have definitely decided to go with LDD drivers thanks to the info I have just read. I am just beginning to put together info for the light I will be building soon.

My question is for rrasco. Would you be willing to update this board (4X LDD-H board) to include the pull-down resistor if enough people are interested? I am definitely interested. The size seems perfect for what I want to do. The board is neat and clean, but I would like the pull down resistor option (without having to modify the board).

Anyone else interested?

 

[rrasco]

My question is for rrasco. Would you be willing to update this board (4X LDD-H board) to include the pull-down resistor if enough people are interested?

I could do that.

 

[risk1994]

My question is for rrasco. Would you be willing to update this board (4X LDD-H board) to include the pull-down resistor if enough people are interested? I am definitely interested. The size seems perfect for what I want to do. The board is neat and clean, but I would like the pull down resistor option (without having to modify the board).

Anyone else interested?

I'm interested in the same board but have never ordered a custom PCB before. How much would it be to order? I looked at itead but couldn't make heads or tails. Too many options I'm unfamiliar with. If your looking to share cost, I'm in.

 

[O2Surplus]

I could do that.

RRASCO-

I've had a few people asking me ( Via PM ) for a PcB with the "PullDown resistor" as an option. Here's what I came up with-
The PWM pins can be pulled low by installing a jumper, or left to open to " "float high".
If anyone else wants the Gerber files for this version, just let me know and I'll post'em up.

 

[Eud]

RRASCO-

I've had a few people asking me ( Via PM ) for a PcB with the "PullDown resistor" as an option. Here's what I came up with-
The PWM pins can be pulled low by installing a jumper, or left to open to " "float high".
If anyone else wants the Gerber files for this version, just let me know and I'll post'em up.

Hey, that's really cool with the pins for selecting if you want them to fail full or off. I'm sticking with the ones I made, though.

 

[bwlange3]

I'm interested in the same board but have never ordered a custom PCB before. How much would it be to order? I looked at itead but couldn't make heads or tails. Too many options I'm unfamiliar with. If your looking to share cost, I'm in.

I have never ordered a custom board either, but from what I can see on their website (and from what I have read in this thread) it looks as though 10 of these boards will cost $22 plus shipping. Expedited shipping will be around $25-$30 (if you want to go that route).

So basically we are looking at roughly $50 for 10 boards, or roughly $5 each. I only need a few of these so if you would like to split it cost on them shoot me a PM.

 

[risk1994]

Cant PM until I have 10 posts.

Sure Ill split it, do you know if they can email to multiple adresses? If not I'll send you some extra for the inconvenience.

Anyone else interested?

 

[daplatapus]

I'd be interested, just don't know if they'd ship north of the border. I'd be in for 4 boards if they would.

 

[bwlange3]

RRASCO-

I've had a few people asking me ( Via PM ) for a PcB with the "PullDown resistor" as an option. Here's what I came up with-
The PWM pins can be pulled low by installing a jumper, or left to open to " "float high".
If anyone else wants the Gerber files for this version, just let me know and I'll post'em up.

Very nice! Great idea. I would definitely be interested in the Gerber files for that board. Couple of questions though. What type of jumpers would be needed? Would it be a plastic jumper that slides onto some pins. If so, what type of pins and jumpers would we need?

Also, somewhere in this thread I read that 90° turns in the traces are not a good thing. Is that true?

 

[ozworld]

I'm on the same boat as risk1994, can't PM... but sign me up for 2 boards.

 

[bwlange3]

I'm on the same boat as risk1994, can't PM... but sign me up for 2 boards.

I am in the same boat as well. I don't have a problem organizing a purchase for a bunch of boards. I am sure they will not ship to everyone individually, but I am fine with distributing them once I get them.

daplatapus - I can ship to you, but I'm not sure what the cost will be to get through customs.