Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

Can I use a potentiometer to dim the LDD-1000hw using a separate 5v walwart?
I am running 10 royal blues in series and plan on using a 36v 4 amp PS

will this work? I don't want to use a arduino for just supplement lighting
 
rott said:
Can I use a potentiometer to dim the LDD-1000hw using a separate 5v walwart?
I am running 10 royal blues in series and plan on using a 36v 4 amp PS

will this work? I don't want to use a arduino for just supplement lighting
Click to expand...

The LDD requires a 5V PWM signal. A simple Pot will not work.
 
Since I can only get my hands on the ldd-700hw drivers, how hard would it be to solder these to a board? I'd like it to be as clean as possible. Are the wire leads able to be desoldered or are they embedded in the ldd?
 
is there an alternative way to dim the ldd1000 not using a arduino? I just need a cheap way to dim 10 3W leds all RB
 
I vote expedited shipping for sure.

Perhaps we can revive this thread with a few more builds. My led array is already built/in use, Im just looking to build the controller/ldd portion and am a total newb with stuff like this.
 
rott said:
is there an alternative way to dim the ldd1000 not using a arduino? I just need a cheap way to dim 10 3W leds all RB
Click to expand...

What's your definition of cheap? I've seen a few really simple PWM to analog converter RC circuits, not sure if running it backwards will yield PWM from analog.
 
$30 to $40 but way less than that I can get an arduino uno or mega and i can use a out of the box sketch to dim lights up and down. so it looks like I will be ordering another arduino soon.
 
rott said:
$30 to $40 but way less than that I can get an arduino uno or mega and i can use a out of the box sketch to dim lights up and down. so it looks like I will be ordering another arduino soon.
Click to expand...

I've converted to using DIY controllers to make it cheaper. For a single use, the cost isn't much less, but once you have a PCB and the parts, it gets cheaper each time you need one. Which for me, is becoming quite often.
 
O2Surplus said:
RRASCO-

I've had a few people asking me ( Via PM ) for a PcB with the "PullDown resistor" as an option. Here's what I came up with-
The PWM pins can be pulled low by installing a jumper, or left to open to " "float high".
If anyone else wants the Gerber files for this version, just let me know and I'll post'em up.
Click to expand...

That's sweet. Though, it would add costs, while minimal, still an extra part to build. I say you post those files up. I will upgrade my board to include the pull-down resistors that way people can decide on which one they want. Options are good.
 
rrasco said:
I've converted to using DIY controllers to make it cheaper. For a single use, the cost isn't much less, but once you have a PCB and the parts, it gets cheaper each time you need one. Which for me, is becoming quite often.
Click to expand...

Amen to that! Even if you don't have a stand alone PcB, a small piece of proto-board will work in a pinch. You can build a dedicated controller for around $10 in parts Vs $29 for a full blown UNO.
 

Attachments

  • LDD Hx4 v2.0.png
    LDD Hx4 v2.0.png
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  • LDD-Lx4 v2.0.png
    LDD-Lx4 v2.0.png
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WOW this threads been busiy the last couple days!

proietti said:
Hi your set up looks great. I am doing more or less a similar set up. Can you please advise how you have connected Steve's interface to the drivers?
Click to expand...
This post a couple pages back makes me wonder. I thought the HLG was an LED Current driver? and couldn't be used to run the LDD's. or did I miss something here (goes out to the electical engineers among us) otherwise very neatly organized electronics, makes me thing this person knows what they are doing and I just missed something. :)

bwlange3 said:
I am in the same boat as well. I don't have a problem organizing a purchase for a bunch of boards. I am sure they will not ship to everyone individually, but I am fine with distributing them once I get them.

daplatapus - I can ship to you, but I'm not sure what the cost will be to get through customs.
Click to expand...
I beleive you can just ship them out as a "gift" and avoid any customs fees. (in our case this isn't really cheating the system as we aren't in this for profit.....

rott said:
is there an alternative way to dim the ldd1000 not using a arduino? I just need a cheap way to dim 10 3W leds all RB
Click to expand...

Rott, any sort of 555 timer circuit will work. such as the cheap 3-4 dollar ones on ebay for manuall dimming of the LDD. you just have to hook them up properly. not using the v+ output connection......
 
zachts said:
This post a couple pages back makes me wonder. I thought the HLG was an LED Current driver? and couldn't be used to run the LDD's. or did I miss something here (goes out to the electical engineers among us) otherwise very neatly organized electronics, makes me thing this person knows what they are doing and I just missed something. :)
Click to expand...

The HLG's run as either constant current or constant voltage based on how you have the pots adjusted. I wanted a power supply that did not need a fan running to cool it as they always seem to die on me. I have all of my LEDs running right now except the TV's and HV's for the last 9 hours which is about 3.2 amps @ 54v DC and its running fairly warm at 130 degrees. It is not getting any airflow though as it is sitting under the tank enclosed in the cabinet. It will be interesting to see how much hotter it gets as I bring the rest of the LEDs online. My max string string is @ about 38v DC so with the LDD overhead I could dial down the voltage on the HLG to see if it helps with efficiency and heat. Its on my list to test and post the results. Otherwise so far its just worked.
 
rrasco said:
Updated both the LDD-Lx4 and LDD-Hx4 to v2.0 which includes the 1206 10k pull down resistor. Gerber files at Google Code below.
Click to expand...

I'm no electronics genius, but if I follow what I've been reading, all this addition does is prevent the LEDs from baking in the event of a power failure when the unit comes back on, correct?

I ordered my 5 LDD boards earlier this evening before finishing the last few pages of the thread... doh!
 
gandalfdgrey said:
Hi,

O2Surplus I am interested in your design. Can you please post the gerber files? Do you have a part number for a suitable jumper?

Thanks.
Click to expand...


Here are the Gerber files for the PcB's to be made @ ITeadStudio. The jumpers are constructed using standard .1" pin headers. You'll find them anywhere computer parts are sold.

Jumper-http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/382811-8/A26228-ND/293121

Snap-able Pin Header-http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PRPC040SAAN-RC/S1011EC-40-ND/2775214
 
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