emerald crab
New member
If you're OK with 5 LDD-H boards I can help you with four boards.
Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino
- Thread starter pwreef
- Start date
daplatapus
New member
Cool! I just posted on my local forum I might be doing an order so I'll give it a day to see if there's any local interest. If not I'll take you up on that. There're the ones with the pull down resistor's? Do they have the jumpers on them or no?
emerald crab
New member
No, on mine I scratched a bit on the back and I soldered 10k SMD resistors.
daplatapus
New member
Oh, ok. I have 4 boards like that already, but my OCD side won't let me live with it long term and I wanted to switch them out for the ones with the resistors and jumper pins. Thanks anyway!
CrazyEyes
New member
I have been trying to get these pwm dimmers to work for like 2 days now and I think I am just going to throw them away and move onto the arduino. I have 4 channels, RB, B, Violet and NW. Basically I just want some that will allow me to dim each channel separately for now, well I wouldn't mind being able to bring on each color gradually over a certain amount of time. The board I have isn't an authentic Arduino, it's a SainSmart Uno although I don't think that matters. And the screen I have is just a 16x2 LCD with 5 push buttons. How hard would it be to create a sketch that started turning the lights on at about 8am then gradually went to full brightness(well as bright as I want them to run) by 10am. and then by 6pm start dimming all the way down and then by 8pm be completely off?
You'll need a DS1307 or other RTC module to keep the system time, in addition to to what parts you already have. There are a few threads on this forum that will probably contain some code for doing what you have in mind. Here's a thread that comes to mind-http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1987110
When all else fails, there's always the "Typhon" Led controller. It will do what you want right out of the box.:thumbsup:
CrazyEyes
New member
Oh yeah! That's the one thing I actually forgot to order. I basically have everything else, I just need to get one of those. Also, if ANYONE has a LDD-H X4 PCB they might have just laying around and wouldn't mind selling I would definitely be interested in it. I'll pay for shipping and everything. Oh and also 02, quick question. My LEDs are rated for 1000mA+ so my question is, if I'm using the LDD-700's right now, am I essentially only running the LEDs at 700mA? For example, my XT-E RB's max is 1500mA but the drivers are only 700's. I know that the drivers themselves are being run at 100% but what about the LEDs? Also, is safe to run the drivers at 100% for a given amount of time? I noticed the drivers seem to get a little on the warm side but I wasnt sure if that was because they were being driven at 100%.
You don't have anything to worry about. The drivers may be running at 100%, but that's what they're designed to do. Your leds re running are being driven at < 50% of their maximum current rating so they'll be fine. If you need another 4 up PcB- I've got some that are already paired to a "Typhon" controller, if you're interested in getting one- send me a PM. I built 10 of them and still have 3 that need a good home.
This thread is great, I'm a real newbie. Thanks to everyone for providing the information in this thread.
Since my chiller is not working I have decided to I have decided to change to LED lighting on my 240Gal mixed reef that I'm currently running four 250W 20K XM MH on.
Are the newest versions on the thread?
4 Up v3.0 post #1088 rrasco Uses 5cmx10cm option
4 up post #1060 O2Surplus w/ parts for jumpers, pin header
The 5 up are 10cmx10cm. Is there a 5up version with the resisters and pulldown jumpers?
Let me know if someone has extra boards.
My tank is 8x2x2 feet. For every 2ft of tank I'm planing:
3 - Philips Luxeon M ROYAL BLUE 12 Watt LED (Good choice over 3W?)
2 - Philips Luxeon M 5,000K 12 Watt LED (Good choice over 3W?)
3 - 3 Watt Hyper Violet LED
3 - Philips Luxeon ES True Cool BLUE 3 Watt LED
Do you think this is a good mix of LEDs?
Since my chiller is not working I have decided to I have decided to change to LED lighting on my 240Gal mixed reef that I'm currently running four 250W 20K XM MH on.
Are the newest versions on the thread?
4 Up v3.0 post #1088 rrasco Uses 5cmx10cm option
4 up post #1060 O2Surplus w/ parts for jumpers, pin header
The 5 up are 10cmx10cm. Is there a 5up version with the resisters and pulldown jumpers?
Let me know if someone has extra boards.
My tank is 8x2x2 feet. For every 2ft of tank I'm planing:
3 - Philips Luxeon M ROYAL BLUE 12 Watt LED (Good choice over 3W?)
2 - Philips Luxeon M 5,000K 12 Watt LED (Good choice over 3W?)
3 - 3 Watt Hyper Violet LED
3 - Philips Luxeon ES True Cool BLUE 3 Watt LED
Do you think this is a good mix of LEDs?
I posted a version of the 5up with the pulldown resistors here-http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21241562&postcount=936
If you'd like one with jumpers too- gimme a couple of days and I'll post it in this thread.
Yes please!
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I'm comfortable using pwm dimming; however, there have been no studies into their impact on the photon receptors within the host coral. These photon receptors flash on and off and may go out of sync with pwm. There has been research into the use of flashing light with terrestrial plants to conserve energy, but it's still in its infancy.
With proper timing, one could use less energy with the same results as a static on light. If the pulse is out of sync photo inhibition, poor compensation point, or general stress could occur.
Again, I'm no expert and there is no cause for alarm, but it's an issue that you do not face with analogue dimming. Empirical data from tanks running pwm is of little value as there is no clear metric for measuring "success". You are always left wondering if your tank would do better if a parameter changed. Is pwm that parameter? Probably not, but it's worth considering.
With proper timing, one could use less energy with the same results as a static on light. If the pulse is out of sync photo inhibition, poor compensation point, or general stress could occur.
Again, I'm no expert and there is no cause for alarm, but it's an issue that you do not face with analogue dimming. Empirical data from tanks running pwm is of little value as there is no clear metric for measuring "success". You are always left wondering if your tank would do better if a parameter changed. Is pwm that parameter? Probably not, but it's worth considering.
megadeth72
New member
this would be pwm at the output side of the driver, afaik the meanwell's now popular do not output pwm, but do take it as input
rrasco
Active member
Has Meanwell always offered the LDD-HS version? It's an SMD style pin out. Either they're new or I never noticed them.
http://www.meanwell.com/search/LDD-H/LDD-H-spec.pdf
http://www.meanwell.com/search/LDD-H/LDD-H-spec.pdf
At first thought- Ohhhhh SMD, that's coooool! Then I realized........ Ugh- kinda defeats the whole reason why we're using chip holders? LOL
