Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

gerber size 6.5 x 10???

gerber size 6.5 x 10???

Help......iteadstudio is telling me the files are too big.... how do I tell if the files are correct...could they be corrupted? I downloaded from O2Surplus post 1060 again to check and the file size is the same... I don't know what to tell them and I don't want the boards on a 10x10.

Thanks for appreciating our business .you pcbs should have been shipped considering the normal turn around time .however ,the factory hold the process due to the oversize gerber file .the actual gerber size is 6.5cm x10cm ,that means you should purchase 10*10cm service instead of 5*10cm .therefore ,the resultant difference should be $10 in order to upgrade the service .

View attachment 4-up.zip
 
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Help......iteadstudio is telling me the files are too big.... how do I tell if the files are correct...could they be corrupted? I downloaded from O2Surplus post 1060 again to check and the file size is the same... I don't know what to tell them and I don't want the boards on a 10x10.

Thanks for appreciating our business .you pcbs should have been shipped considering the normal turn around time .however ,the factory hold the process due to the oversize gerber file .the actual gerber size is 6.5cm x10cm ,that means you should purchase 10*10cm service instead of 5*10cm .therefore ,the resultant difference should be $10 in order to upgrade the service .

View attachment 230676

I had the same problem. I ordered 5cm x 10cm boards, but the pulldown version requires you to buy 10cm x 10cm boards to fit the 6.5cm width. They didn't phrase it very well, as the problem is the size of the PCB not the size of the file itself.

I paid the extra cost April 11, as it took them a week to look at the Gerber file. Then they ignored my email about paying as well as the Paypal notification.

Send the extra money and make sure they don't drop the ball again.
 
Help......iteadstudio is telling me the files are too big.... how do I tell if the files are correct...could they be corrupted? I downloaded from O2Surplus post 1060 again to check and the file size is the same... I don't know what to tell them and I don't want the boards on a 10x10.

Thanks for appreciating our business .you pcbs should have been shipped considering the normal turn around time .however ,the factory hold the process due to the oversize gerber file .the actual gerber size is 6.5cm x10cm ,that means you should purchase 10*10cm service instead of 5*10cm .therefore ,the resultant difference should be $10 in order to upgrade the service .

View attachment 230676

They're not saying that there's something wrong with the Gerber files. The files are fine. They're saying that you did not choose the correct pcb size to "fit" your order. The Gerber files show a board dimension of 65mm X 100mm. You probably chose the 50mm X 100mm option and that is too small to fit your order. You should have gone with the 100mm X 100mm option. Your finished boards will be 65mm X 100mm. It looks like they're asking you for another $10 to correct the problem.
 
Thanks for clearing that up for me guys :-) I did not realize they actually cut down the boards...I thought the finshed size would be 5x10 or 10x10...The 4-ups I have seen posted here are all rectangles so I assumed 5x10.
 
I hate to be redundant on this, but I have a couple of questions on the 3-Up boards that were posted by O2Surplus (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21090882&postcount=555 ).

1. When ordering this PCB from iTead, what size board should be requested?
2. Does someone have a source for the terminal blocks used on this board?

Thanks a bunch!


That PcB measures 66mm X 48mm, so go order the 50mm X 100mm option.
The terminal blocks use 3.81mm spacing. You can find plenty of them from sellers on FleaBay.
 
From left to right you have 4 positive connections and then 4 negative, connect one negative to your pcb negative coming from your power source, then one positive for each pwm input on your pcb. So total 5 wires going to your pcb.
 
From left to right you have 4 positive connections and then 4 negative, connect one negative to your pcb negative coming from your power source, then one positive for each pwm input on your pcb. So total 5 wires going to your pcb.

Uhhhhh he must have bought the original design or built his own because he didn't get it from me.
 
I just built and programmed my new 10V Analog/ 5V PWM convertor. It's off to "Frog21"for testing. If it works well, you guys running an APEX wil have a cheaper alternative to the Steve'sleds Aquarium Controller Interface.

O2Surplus, I can't wait to hear back on this. I could also help with the testing and code fixes if you guys need help. Let me know if there's anything I can do to help.
 
It's whatever model boostled sells. But let me get this straight, one of the negative pwm connections goes to my dc power supply, and another negative pwm connection goes to the ldd board?
 
It's whatever model boostled sells. But let me get this straight, one of the negative pwm connections goes to my dc power supply, and another negative pwm connection goes to the ldd board?

yes you can do it like that. but i think you can getaway with just one, since the baord has a negative line going to your power supply, if you connect a negative from your controller to the negative of your board, you will then be sharing a common ground.
 
O2Surplus, I can't wait to hear back on this. I could also help with the testing and code fixes if you guys need help. Let me know if there's anything I can do to help.

We're still working on it. I revised the PcB to include a cap on each 10V input. The cap was added to help eliminate any signal "noise" that may be present or induced to the Analog inputs, and we're making improvements to the software for higher resolution dimming performance.
 
hey 02, not asking you to build anything, but i saw that meanwell had several stepdowns that could take you from 48v to 12v, have you thought of a simple pcb design to have one of these installed with just a i/o?
would be great to run the typhon and or a couple of fans from a single power supply source. kinda like what i did here:
DSC_3301-M.jpg


though i bought mine off ebay, would also be cool to have a 5up baord where 4 where used for ldd and the 5 slot for the dc/dc.
http://www.meanwell.com/search/scw12/default.htm


i do have to say that the meanwell route would be more expensive though, i got the stepdown off ebay for $7 bucks IIRR.
but it only does 36v max on the input.
 
yes you can do it like that. but i think you can getaway with just one, since the baord has a negative line going to your power supply, if you connect a negative from your controller to the negative of your board, you will then be sharing a common ground.

This worked for me, might have to get a different power supply though. Lots of capacitor hum at higher loads
 
hey 02, not asking you to build anything, but i saw that meanwell had several stepdowns that could take you from 48v to 12v, have you thought of a simple pcb design to have one of these installed with just a i/o?
would be great to run the typhon and or a couple of fans from a single power supply source. kinda like what i did here:
DSC_3301-M.jpg


though i bought mine off ebay, would also be cool to have a 5up baord where 4 where used for ldd and the 5 slot for the dc/dc.
http://www.meanwell.com/search/scw12/default.htm


i do have to say that the meanwell route would be more expensive though, i got the stepdown off ebay for $7 bucks IIRR.
but it only does 36v max on the input.

Yeah- I've looked at the MeanWell SCW12C-12. It's input voltage rating is higher than the LDD-H, so it would work great for our application. The trouble is, they're expensive as hell. I found prices ranging from $18 -$35 each :eek2:

I'll probably draw up a PcB for the LDD-H that includes SCW12C-12 just for fun, and hopefully, in the future, their prices will come down enough to be considered affordable.
 
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