Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

I have 9 total LED's. 6 Cee XT-E RB and 3 Cree XP-G NW. LDD-1000h the correct driver for these LED's?

Can I use one LDD-1000H for each of those two colors? Dont want to blow any LED's on the string of just 3.

Im a TOTAL newb at this so sorry for the dumb questions.
 
risk1994 said:
I have 9 total LED's. 6 Cee XT-E RB and 3 Cree XP-G NW. LDD-1000h the correct driver for these LED's?

Can I use one LDD-1000H for each of those two colors? Dont want to blow any LED's on the string of just 3.

Im a TOTAL newb at this so sorry for the dumb questions.
Click to expand...

LDD's can drive as little as one led, also xte's can run aaaaat 1500ma, so 1000h is perfect for them, you still will need to either dim the leds or raise the fixture high depending on the height of your tank.

you will also need a power supply for them, you can use a laptop power supply for the amount of leds you are using.

no such thing as dumb questions in my book, better to ask and get the right answer than to assume and get it wrong.
 
I apologize for the newbie question, but I'm looking to order the 5up board and was wondering what the names of the additional parts I needed to buy were called.

E.g. The piece with the screw to attach the wires. And the jumpers?
 
I doubt this will get answered, but I built a couple lights using multichannel multichips last night, and using the same LDD based power supply, one works fine, and the other just flashes once, at the correct intensity depending on the signal to the LDDs. Anyone have any ideas? It was getting late so I gave it a rest last night but I will be trying a LPC 1050ma power supply soon.
 
tomservo said:
I doubt this will get answered, but I built a couple lights using multichannel multichips last night, and using the same LDD based power supply, one works fine, and the other just flashes once, at the correct intensity depending on the signal to the LDDs. Anyone have any ideas? It was getting late so I gave it a rest last night but I will be trying a LPC 1050ma power supply soon.
Click to expand...

Try sharing the negative across all channels.
 
Mr Wilson: on these LDDs it's actually the positive you want to share.. It turns out my problem was a matter of mixed up positive leads; I ran the positive side through 4 thermal cutouts (60C) and the two white channels share a cutout. I got them mixed up so obviously nothing worked as it should. The flickering at power on was just some bleed through or something like that.
 
Confuse said:
I apologize for the newbie question, but I'm looking to order the 5up board and was wondering what the names of the additional parts I needed to buy were called.

E.g. The piece with the screw to attach the wires. And the jumpers?
Click to expand...

Screw Terminal Block 2 Pin 3.5mm pitch side entry
2.54mm male jumper - you can use a 1x40 pin male breakaway header
 
Just got and installed 18 new Luxon RBs. At 700ma they out perform the Cree XTEs at 1000ma. So for three days I just add them to my timer running at 700ma, I went from 18 RBs to 36 on a 90. No dimming, nothing. Well, then I notice it looks like someone mowed my pink catspaw right down to the skeleton on the top. I think to myself the Coral Beauty is to blame. Next day more coral is missing polyps but only on the top. Duhh!!!! 18 new leds are really hard on the tank when you just turn them on and let them go. Cut them back to 40% and am waiting to see what happens next. I guess more light doesn't always do the trick!!!!

Anyway, I'm looking for 3 5up boards. Anyone got extras? Think I want the ones with the pull-down resistor :)
shark boy.
 
Confuse said:
Can anyone tell me which SMD resistors to use with rrasco's 4up jumper board? Somebody recommended these ebay resistors, but I'm having a hard time finding another bid with them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300697696208?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Click to expand...

I got mine from him. Showed up quickly. You are looking for the 1206 that's the form factor/size and you need 10k ohm for the resistance rating. If you find a 3216 10k that will also work it's a metric equivalent.

Search the bay for "SMD 1206 10k" lots of hits.
 
nemosworld said:
LDD's can drive as little as one led, also xte's can run aaaaat 1500ma, so 1000h is perfect for them, you still will need to either dim the leds or raise the fixture high depending on the height of your tank.

you will also need a power supply for them, you can use a laptop power supply for the amount of leds you are using.

no such thing as dumb questions in my book, better to ask and get the right answer than to assume and get it wrong.
Click to expand...

How would I connect a laptop power supply to this board? That would be awesome if I could do that.
 
easiest way will be to cut the wire, other option requires knowing the diameter of the plug and then ordering the male connector for it and then soldering wire to the leads and then connecting to the board. hope i explained that right.
laptop-dc-jack-socket-repairs.jpg
 
Oh you mean to power the typhon board, not the led's themselves right? My understanding is you need one power supply for the typhon/arduino and one for the led's.
 
risk1994 said:
Oh you mean to power the typhon board, not the led's themselves right? My understanding is you need one power supply for the typhon/arduino and one for the led's.
Click to expand...


You'll need two power supplies. One for the leds themselves and it's voltage will need to exceed the voltage requirements of your longest string. The other can be a "wallwart" style supply of 9 - 12 Volts with a center positive 2.1 mm male plug to power the typhon. Here's one for $8 that will work -http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/EPS090066-P5P/T980-P5P-ND/1016856

EPS120050-P5N_sml.jpg
 
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