Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

No, I meant to power your LEDs, do you have the wire version or the h version?
I was thinking you had the h version and wanted an easy way to power it.
 
I have o2surplus' 4up board. Would I be able to strip the wires from a laptop ps and use it for the led's through that board?

If not I'm just going to order the 250w-48v-5.2a-dc-power-supply from ledgroup buy. Seems like it would give me some room for future growth.
 
Last edited:
I got mine from him. Showed up quickly. You are looking for the 1206 that's the form factor/size and you need 10k ohm for the resistance rating. If you find a 3216 10k that will also work it's a metric equivalent.

Search the bay for "SMD 1206 10k" lots of hits.

Ok, so would this resistor do? It's 1% vs. the 5% on the previous link.

Yageo - RC1206FR0710K
10K Ohm 1% 0.25W
1206 ( 3216 metric)
smd Thick Film Resistors
Quantity - 400pcs
 
I have o2surplus' 4up board. Would I be able to strip the wires from a laptop ps and use it for the led's through that board?

If not I'm just going to order the 250w-48v-5.2a-dc-power-supply from ledgroup buy. Seems like it would give me some room for future growth.

That's exactly what I was getting at, but I l Ike your option better.
 
I have o2surplus' 4up board. Would I be able to strip the wires from a laptop ps and use it for the led's through that board?

If not I'm just going to order the 250w-48v-5.2a-dc-power-supply from ledgroup buy. Seems like it would give me some room for future growth.

I highly doubt that your laptop PS is 48v or 250w. Buy the right PS for the job.
 
Ok, so would this resistor do? It's 1% vs. the 5% on the previous link.

Yageo - RC1206FR0710K
10K Ohm 1% 0.25W
1206 ( 3216 metric)
smd Thick Film Resistors
Quantity - 400pcs

They will work fine. The 1% are just a tighter tolerance for the resistance value.
 
This is what I received. What did I do wrong?
4y2y6eje.jpg
 
The LDD-L boards are 5x5, the LDD-H boards are 5x10. That's the right one, if you intended to use LDD-Ls.

Ugh! No, I wanted to use the LDD-H. I guess back to the drawing board for me...

What's your latest LDD-H board, rrasco? I thought I had the right one, but apparently I didn't.
 
For anyone who's interested in building a 10V Analog to 5V PWM Convertor, here's the build files and software for the unit that "Frogg21" & I created. It's compatible with an APEX and probably other 10V analog lighting controllers. Enjoy!

IMG_2187_zpsfb273ad8.jpg
 

Attachments

Neat. It's really tiny. I'll take a crack at one. For general interest here are the results of my testing of the StevesLEDs AQI coming from a 10V Apex input before I hook them up to my LEDs.

Two Steves AQI's giving 6 channels of PWM from 6 channels of 10V:

IMAG0215_zpsc55b5a8b.jpg


MeanWell LDD's on O2Surplus 4-way boards with purple PWM inputs installed:

IMAG0216_zpsa7505c20.jpg


Apex set to 25% (2.5V), note the LightsAt25 virtual outlet is turned on which turns on RoyalBlue and NeutralWhite at 25 out of 100. Check out the scope output from the AQI on the left:

IMAG0219_zps8a997ffc.jpg


Apex set to 10%

IMAG0218_zpsf1458bc9.jpg
 
Dumb question but here goes: Is Steve's convertor a option to use? I didn't really understand from the previous posts duh.....
If yes can somebody post a wiring diagram of some sort because the instructions on their site are specific for their own drivers.
 
Steve's is only specific to his driver in the sense that his drivers take 5V PWM input for dimming similar to the LDD's that this thread is about.

His convertor requires a power source of 5-35V, if I remember correctly, and can accept up to four 0-10V analog dimming inputs and will output 0-100% duty cycle 5V PWM at 500Hz, from what I could see on the scope. They're probably more expensive than the parts for the boards that O2Surplus just posted, but they come all put together for you, and seem like they'll work fine for the LDD's. When I get mine tested I'll post up a video.
 
Mr Wilson: on these LDDs it's actually the positive you want to share.. It turns out my problem was a matter of mixed up positive leads; I ran the positive side through 4 thermal cutouts (60C) and the two white channels share a cutout. I got them mixed up so obviously nothing worked as it should. The flickering at power on was just some bleed through or something like that.

tomservo, can you elaborate on this? I've got mine hooked up, and they don't seem to be dimming correctly. Some channels won't come on at all. What positives do you share?
 
Steve's is only specific to his driver in the sense that his drivers take 5V PWM input for dimming similar to the LDD's that this thread is about.

His convertor requires a power source of 5-35V, if I remember correctly, and can accept up to four 0-10V analog dimming inputs and will output 0-100% duty cycle 5V PWM at 500Hz, from what I could see on the scope. They're probably more expensive than the parts for the boards that O2Surplus just posted, but they come all put together for you, and seem like they'll work fine for the LDD's. When I get mine tested I'll post up a video.

Good deal. Thank you very much. I will most likely go the O2 rout but I am not so sure if I will be able to assemble them correctly. Never too late to learn something new....
 
Back
Top