nightOwl
Premium Member
jedimasterben = Thanks!
Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino
- Thread starter pwreef
- Start date
jedimasterben = Thanks!
Likewise you can turn the hlg 48 voltage down to make it more efficient, and let the LDD do the rest, then you have some extra room for expansion! the 100watt HLG can put out the full 100 watts no problem the over head is already figure in.
nightOwl
Premium Member
zachts - What would I need to know how far I am turning it down. Would I need more than a digital voltmeter or just a multi-meter?
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
Nope, that's it (you'll also need the -48A or -54A model, just be aware they are IP65 rated instead of IP67), it's super easy and the potentiometers are clearly labeled
nightOwl
Premium Member
Nope, that's it (you'll also need the -48A or -54A model, just be aware they are IP65 rated instead of IP67), it's super easy and the potentiometers are clearly labeled
jedimasterben - Thanks. I will check and see which ones I have around the house now. Is there a place you guys suggest I order the ballast from? If its against the rules to say the place please pm me.
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
Honestly, pretty much anywhere that stocks them will have about the same price on them (Mouser, PowergateLLC, TRC, Onlinecomponents).
nightOwl
Premium Member
jedimasterben - Ok I was on the right track. The last ballasts I got from some close out on ebay. I was on Powergate and Jameco earlier today. I will check the other ones you mentioned.
oreo57
Well-known member
Only difference seems to be the current range. max .5A for the DCW (approx)
Max 1/4A for the SCW.......
Krazie4Acans
New member
The DCW has both a +VOUT and a -VOUT. As long as you only use the +VOUT pin you will still get the +12 you want but at a lower Amperage (Only 335mA instead of 668mA). So it might still work depending on which board you are using it on. Krazie :jester:
Krazie4Acans
New member
If you are talking about this board. Then my only concern is with pin 11 (-VOUT). I can't tell from the picture from O2 if that pin is grounded to the fill or if it is truly not connected. If it is not connected then it will work just fine. If you were really worried you could clip the pin off of the DCW as close to the epoxy as possible and then coat it with paint, fingernail polish, plasti dip, or anything else that would insulate it from the board.
Like I said before these parts do not have the same amperage that the SCW has so make sure that if you are running fans and trying to use the power for other stuff that you don't go over 338mA of draw or you will damage the part or the board. Krazie :jester:
Gus- the 8up board isn't the issue. You'll need to modify the SCW/LDD-H adapter a little bit to make it compatible with the DCW. Just scratch a little of the coating off near pin #11 and solder it to ground. Make sure not to solder bridge the pin to any neighboring pins and it should work out OK.
Krazie4Acans
New member
O2 are you sure you want him to ground the -VOUT pin? The DCW is a dual output converter. It produces +12 and -12 volt outputs. Pin 11 is the -12 volt output on the converter. I'm not sure that is what you want him to ground. The grounds on the DCW are identified as COM not -VOUT.
Am I missing something? Krazie :jester:
Whoa! You're right. :facepalm: I should have read the Data sheet before posting. LOL
GUS ! Don't touch Pin#11. That pin is isolated from ground and needs to stay that way. Pin #16 is tied to the ground plane of the PcB- and I have no idea how that may affect the DCW's operation. Please proceed carefully!
K sounds good. I will try one of the converters on an old 4up LDD board I got and see what happens. Will let you know if something explodes.
Krazie4Acans
New member
Ok, good that's what I thought. Glad there were two sets of eyes on that one. :wink:
Pin #16 is COM (aka GND) so it should work great as is. No modifications needed. Just don't exceed the 338mA or it may go into melt down. :smile: Krazie :jester:
Pin #16 is COM (aka GND) so it should work great as is. No modifications needed. Just don't exceed the 338mA or it may go into melt down. :smile: Krazie :jester:
Scuba_Steve
Premium Member
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2440645
Here is the idea/dilemma I have been discussing in my thread. I would like some ideas from the LDD pros.
I will be running strings of 8 xpg2s off of LDD 1500Ls. I obviously do not want to kill my LEDs by driving them at 100% all the time so I need a way to bring them down a hair. I was going to use the analog dimming feature to bring them down to 1350mA. Im straight so far correct?
Next I still want to be able to PWM dim to make things pretty. So I will be analog and PWM dimming at the same time. Am I still working correctly?
Is there a more efficient way to do the first step other than precisely controlling voltage.
Here is the idea/dilemma I have been discussing in my thread. I would like some ideas from the LDD pros.
I will be running strings of 8 xpg2s off of LDD 1500Ls. I obviously do not want to kill my LEDs by driving them at 100% all the time so I need a way to bring them down a hair. I was going to use the analog dimming feature to bring them down to 1350mA. Im straight so far correct?
Next I still want to be able to PWM dim to make things pretty. So I will be analog and PWM dimming at the same time. Am I still working correctly?
Is there a more efficient way to do the first step other than precisely controlling voltage.
Krazie4Acans
New member
LDDs do not have an analog dimming option. Even if they did I have never seen a driver that will let you do two dimming methods at the same time. Why wouldn't you just limit your PWM to less than 100%? Krazie :jester:
