Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino
- Thread starter pwreef
- Start date
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
Based on the label, it sounds like that driver can't be dimmed directly. I also don't think it would respond well to an inline FET.
just found tis after toing in the part number from that driver
http://www.addictivereefkeeping.com/index.php?topic=127.0
http://www.addictivereefkeeping.com/index.php?topic=127.0
Interesting! oh and happy new year rott :thumbsup:
ok, so I just found LDD-1200 and 1500 and I need them for a project. Anybody have boards for those?
Also..... why did they have to screw it up and make those drivers only 36v
Everything else I was running @ 48v and it was PERFECT. @ 30v max vdc for string this now means not just another power supply but also 1 more driver for each channel *cries*
Also..... why did they have to screw it up and make those drivers only 36v
Everything else I was running @ 48v and it was PERFECT. @ 30v max vdc for string this now means not just another power supply but also 1 more driver for each channel *cries*
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
What do you need the high current for? Just curious.ok, so I just found LDD-1200 and 1500 and I need them for a project. Anybody have boards for those?
Also..... why did they have to screw it up and make those drivers only 36v
ok, so I just found LDD-1200 and 1500 and I need them for a project. Anybody have boards for those?
Also..... why did they have to screw it up and make those drivers only 36v
Down side of higher current in the same footprint would be my guess, no where for the extra heat to go. I recall O2 did make a board for them. I kind of second Jedi, you have to ask yourself, "Do you really, really need the extra juice?"
It's probably better split up anyways. I would have been looking at over 12 amps on my 48vdc power supply (using 1000's) but I can do a 36v @ 8.1 amps and a 48v @ 7.4 amps
I just want the ability if needed to go full output on the white/blue channels of the reef led labs puck. I can't even go full output on my old aquastyle bridgelux stuff so I know I never would, but it's there. This tank will be deeper too.
I just want the ability if needed to go full output on the white/blue channels of the reef led labs puck. I can't even go full output on my old aquastyle bridgelux stuff so I know I never would, but it's there. This tank will be deeper too.
I'm doing a 72 x 36 x 25 (280g) built into the wall, but the lights are going to be pretty high up. I generally keep them bare minimum 2' off the tank surface, these will probably be higher up then that. Starfire and 2 sided viewable (though I'm having the tank built with 3 sides starfire and the overflow on the end in case I ever move it)
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2551267
I wouldn't mind anybody with info in regards to those questions though. Trying to order them this week.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2551267
I wouldn't mind anybody with info in regards to those questions though. Trying to order them this week.
Hi Aaron,
Not quite what you asked, but have a design requirement if you fancy a play! 10x10 board with headers to drop an arduino nano into, on board RTC, I2C headers, single SCW to power arduino & fans, headers for fan power thru a MOSFET, header for the MOSFET (TO-220), headers for DS18B20, header for all the analogue/digital arduino pins (would allow chaining PWM to other boards, plus connecting UI devices - buttons/rotary encoder) & 5V/GND. Oh, and as many LDD-Ls (smaller ones - 700mA Max) as you can fit, set up to share 5 PWMs from the nano. The other PWM fed to the MOSFET. Oh - screw terminals for DC in and each LDD out, obviously
Anything I've missed? Too much of a mess? Or not something you'd be interested in anyway (assuming you are still looking for something to play at, since it was a while back you posted!)?
Tim
you can not hang the lights lower over the tank some how or if need be put them on a cable that can be pulled up out of the way? or use lens on the led's to focus them downwards I tried to use the higher out put drivers to run 50w led's over my 180 used a mix of 65k ,10k, and actinic blue powered half on you could see that thing from out side LOL it was crazy bright that was what I was thinking you wanted to do when I started to read your post.
I'm just the type of person that if there's availability I want to use it if need be and not have to modify down the road. Like my boat.. I had a spun bearing on #1 and #2 rod, could have just turned it and went oversize... but since it was out lets do a stroker kit.... well now that there's more displacement lets do the top end to match.... that's just me
I'm sure 1a drivers would be quite capable of doing the job, but if they can take 1500ma Imma give them 1500ma if need beyea, my current fixture is way overkill... like 96 older bridgelux over a 75g lol
This will be 144 led's over a 280g
That plus since it's 2 sided viewable I'm really kinda only lighting 180g at full capacity since there will be ample space between the rock work and the glass for lots of swimming room around and through rocks for tangs and such
This will be 144 led's over a 280g
That plus since it's 2 sided viewable I'm really kinda only lighting 180g at full capacity since there will be ample space between the rock work and the glass for lots of swimming room around and through rocks for tangs and such
